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Old 02-17-2000, 08:32 PM
Abe Abe is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Texas or Washington
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I have a 78 chev 3/4 ton 4x4 k25<p>I have a 4&quot; suspension lift on it and run bfg 33x12.50's on it, I dont like the axel hop and occasional axle wrap, I am wondering if it would be worth the invesetment to go with a 4&quot; leaf suspension lift for the rear end, and if I do go to a leaf rear end lift instead of the current blocks, how will this affect the way my truck sits with a load in it.. ie... i have a 11.5' cab over camper i put on when i travel and the truck doesnt squat but about an inch and a half now when I put her on, should I expect the same with a leaf lift rear or better worse? How bout performance and ride??<p>-Abe<br>
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Old 02-24-2000, 01:46 AM
haulinbass
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abe sorry i don't know anything about suspension lifts. but maybe you can help me. i have an 89 chevy 3/4 ton and also have an 11 ft camper. i don't have any lifts of any kind. sags like a mother. what should i do. i have been told overloads, helwig helper springs...ect.... i want to put 33/12.50's on. what should i do is 4&quot; suspension lift a better idea or body lift. any advice is greatly appreciated. i will check back here for any help you have thanks h--bass. also no anything about headers? trying to get a little more power running up the passes with my camper on and towing boat thanks<br>
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Old 02-26-2000, 07:26 PM
ERIC ERIC is offline
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ABE, IF ALL YOU WANT TO DO IS ELIMINATE AXLE HOP A GOOD SET OF LADDER BARS WILL GENERALLY SOLVE THAT PROBLEM. IF YOU DO WANT TO PUT A SUSPENSION LIFT IN, GO WITH THE REAR LEAFS AND NOT THE BLOCKS. WITH A SUSPENSION LIFT IT SHOULDN'T SQUAT VERY MUCH AT ALL WITH THE CAMPER. AS FAR AS THE RIDE CHARACTERISTICS, I HAVE NEVER BEEN IN A TRUCK WITH LEAF SPRINGS ALL THE WAY AROUND THAT RODE FOR SH*T. THE BEST THING I CAN TELL YOU IS BUY A NAME BRAND SUSPENSION LIFT AND SOME KITS DO COME IN EZ RIDE BUT I THINK THE TRUCK WILL THEN SQUAT TO MUCH WITH A CAMPER. I PERSONALLY LIKE SKYJACKER SUSPENSION LIFTS OR SUPERLIFT. BY THE WAY THEY ARE MUCH EASIER TO INSTALL THAN A BODY LIFT, JUST A LITTLE MORE EXPENSIVE. IF YOU WANT LADDER BARS L&L MAKES A GOOD SET. GOOD LUCK<br>
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Old 02-27-2000, 04:15 PM
JB JB is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: NY
Posts: 92
Abe - I would definatly go with the 4 inch springs in the rear and eliminate the blocks. My advice would be to go with the Skyjacker springs. To eliminate the sag you will have to get the heavy duty springs and or possibly have an add a leaf installed by a local spring shop. The ride quality will be firm when the bed is empty but that can be smoothed over with the installation of reversed shackles. One very important factor is to make sure you are riding on Hydrolic Shocks. I have an 87 1/2 ton with the dual front shocks and during the restoration I replaced them with Gas Shocks. It rode like a cement truck. I went to my local chevrolet dealer and ordered the factory shocks and the ride is very good now. Hope this has been some help to you. John
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  #5  
Old 02-28-2000, 12:28 PM
bankindude bankindude is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Posts: 2
My son bought a 76 4wd Blazer that has a 4&quot; body lift. He put on super swamper 38.5 x 14.5 tires on it. The problem is that the driveshaft breaks the universal joints routinely. It happens when he slows down to stop. One mechanic said that it was a too short driveshaft. He had a new one built, but same thing happens. What is the problem?
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Old 02-28-2000, 12:37 PM
jay
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bankindude, check the pinion angle on that<br>blazer, both u-joints should operate at the<br>same angle, a cv joint or some shims on the<br>rear end could help.<br>jay
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