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  #71  
Old 07-21-2009, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lawnMaster5000 View Post
Would a natural dry stack wall be within budget in place of the Segmental Walls?

I think the Whitacre paver choices will work nicely depending on what you do with the walls.
I've got a couple of designs with a dry-stacked style wall. But, If I went that route, I would end up mortaring between the courses.

The only problem I see with the irregular old-world block is that it's not going to match the paver side-walk. I think the side-walk would look too clean, and the wall will look to rough.(If that makes sense)

But it might work well together, another option to consider.
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  #72  
Old 07-21-2009, 09:29 AM
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Humble Earth Mover Humble Earth Mover is offline
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I think you would be better off with natural stone if you are trying to keep with the period of the house. Buff colored SRW walls maintain no true authenticity and not matter what you do, will never look like they've always been there. Go with the clay paver or brick and possibly some flagstone. Stacked stone will not clash with either.

I say keep the hardscape materials more classic and do whatever you want with the plantings. Giving them 4 season interest will mean more to the HO than having 4 months of a landscape that may or may not be authentic to the time period. Holly would be a good choice. Either traditional holly varieties, or newer ones like Red Beauty, Dragon Lady, Winterberry or Inkberry Shamrock.

Whatever you do....please don't put those antique hitching posts atop a SRW wall. That would be an injustice.
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  #73  
Old 07-21-2009, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Humble Earth Mover View Post

Whatever you do....please don't put those antique hitching posts atop a SRW wall. That would be an injustice.

We'll see how it goes. If the concrete posts don't stay then I might push for more of an ornate pole with a horse-head and ring similar to the one in the pics I posted last night.

It's funny how most of your suggestions are what were my original ideas, such as just steps and a landing for the patio, and a few extra evergreens.

Ultimately the HO is the final decider, I will just try to persuade her one way or another.
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  #74  
Old 07-21-2009, 05:39 PM
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I've never done any historically significant homes, so I am obviously shooting from the hip... but modern stone would look out of place here I think. I've stacked some natural stone walls, and given the architecture and period of the house, I would push hard for something that would be more period appropriate, less modern, more rustic.

From what I've seen of you work, I know whatever you do will look great in the end, but modern stacked stone walls do little for me here. That color isn't right, and even if you go with modern stone, there are choices that would look more rustic than what you used in this concept.

The stepping stones in that one pic you posted (the one that appears to block the walkway) was functional.... get off the horse and onto a raised platform that would then lead to a walkway to the house, with a nearby post for hitching the horse. Those big stone blocks work fine for that, but a raised paver/block platform just doesn't fit.

Sure wish I had a few jobs like this one I could play with design-wise... good luck!
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  #75  
Old 07-22-2009, 10:11 AM
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Thanks for all the input guys.

It's a pretty neat feeling to be able to work on a home with historical significance. It's an even better feeling to know that I've beet out 4 other scapers for this work. (they just didn't perform other services very well to earn the trust of the HO)

I think I'm going back to the old-world stone and wall for this one. I originally designed some images with that type of stone in it, but sometimes I either second guess myself, or want to "see" what it would look like with a more modern materials. Thank you guys for pointing me back in the right direction.

With the raised ledge, I might be a little high in the pics. It might actually be more towards step height when it's finished so it doesn't look to out of place.

I'll also try to take more pics of the property itself so you guys can get a feel for the whole project.

I'll post more images later today, I'm going to tweak a few designs before I give them to the HO.

It's been more of a roller coaster ride business wise this year, so having this job towards the end of the season would be tremendous. This job is big, in labor and sales figures. It's one of those jobs that can potentially send my biz into the next level and help me break the glass ceiling as a sole proprietor. If the HO goes with the whole project all at once, then I'm thinking I can get it done (with a few part-time helpers) within 5 weeks, and that's including Murphy's law.

Here's a short list of the numbers.

375 feet of sidewalk, removed, then pavers put in.
God knows how many loads of old-sidewalk removed.
60-70 tons of pack-fill.
5 tons base sand
Lots of of parametric sand.
about 40 bags of mortar for the walls and patio if I go for the dry-stacked look.
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  #76  
Old 07-22-2009, 04:23 PM
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Updated Design

Changes............

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  #77  
Old 07-22-2009, 10:06 PM
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So, after looking at the second pic of the patio, I might try to move the steps and landing to the right in order to semi-line up with the paver sidewalk.

My only thoughts about the two-tier, or second step was to keep it as open as possible to walk up as they park side by side in that spot. I'm afraid if I move the steps over, it might not have a good feel to the entrance.
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  #78  
Old 07-22-2009, 10:31 PM
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I hate to jump in the middle of a different conversation here. But, going back a couple pages to the stone beds. You said you just spray the grass and lay fabric on top of the grass? I have always removed all the sod, have I been wasting my time, is it just as effective to spray the grass and go over it?
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  #79  
Old 07-23-2009, 01:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davis45 View Post
I hate to jump in the middle of a different conversation here. But, going back a couple pages to the stone beds. You said you just spray the grass and lay fabric on top of the grass? I have always removed all the sod, have I been wasting my time, is it just as effective to spray the grass and go over it?
It all depends on the situation. Regardless, I always come in and spray the area first before I get started on grading. It's usually 3-5 days after at that point I do my grading. If I need to, I remove the sod, if I don't have to, then I won't.

It all depends on the planting too. If the soil needs to be turned or amended, then of course I remove the sod. If it's a strait run of rock, no planting, grade looks good, then I leave the sod.
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  #80  
Old 07-23-2009, 11:55 AM
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Last Pic

This is the last image that I'm going to do. I meet with the HO today and I should be able to just go back and tweak them.

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