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  #1651  
Old 07-24-2009, 08:52 PM
mrusk mrusk is offline
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The mosiac wall would look better imo if it was a radom patter and did not have a seam going down the length of the wall every foot.
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  #1652  
Old 07-24-2009, 09:11 PM
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etwman etwman is offline
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Its been four years since I've been in the field. I miss it, but the legwork behind scenes keeps me in the office, especially this year. I do miss the field work at times and creating the once in a lifetime experiences in back yards.

CAT came back to me with numbers but I sent them back to the drawing board to get me better ones. Right now they can't compete with Deere. We'll see what round two brings.

Mosaic and Cov. Plus are the only 10" deep block combination walls on the market to my knowledge. Unfortunatley if you want to go combination, retaining a decent surcharge you need grid. With grid placement you need seams to do it right. I would agree, but its either a 10" panel with Mosaic, or a 21" panel with Cov Plus, pick your poison.
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  #1653  
Old 07-24-2009, 09:29 PM
mrusk mrusk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etwman View Post
Its been four years since I've been in the field. I miss it, but the legwork behind scenes keeps me in the office, especially this year. I do miss the field work at times and creating the once in a lifetime experiences in back yards.

CAT came back to me with numbers but I sent them back to the drawing board to get me better ones. Right now they can't compete with Deere. We'll see what round two brings.

Mosaic and Cov. Plus are the only 10" deep block combination walls on the market to my knowledge. Unfortunatley if you want to go combination, retaining a decent surcharge you need grid. With grid placement you need seams to do it right. I would agree, but its either a 10" panel with Mosaic, or a 21" panel with Cov Plus, pick your poison.

I never installed a wall with "pannels'. Every multi size wall I ever built was a random pattern. We would stagger the grid. For example: We would run 12' for grid after course 3. Then run 6' after course 4 then run 18' after course 3 and so on.

Or every 6-8 feet we would install a block to break the seam and cut the grid around it. This is seen in one of the pics. I am not picking on you are trying to stir trouble. I am just trying to give to advice and maybe give you an idea that you have not thought off.

Engineers have no trouble with these methods.
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  #1654  
Old 07-24-2009, 11:19 PM
Drew Gemma Drew Gemma is offline
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picture 2 of the reshoots what material are those tiles and are they sealed
Thanks
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  #1655  
Old 07-24-2009, 11:36 PM
LBFmd LBFmd is offline
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Originally Posted by mrusk View Post
I never installed a wall with "pannels'. Every multi size wall I ever built was a random pattern. We would stagger the grid. For example: We would run 12' for grid after course 3. Then run 6' after course 4 then run 18' after course 3 and so on.

Or every 6-8 feet we would install a block to break the seam and cut the grid around it. This is seen in one of the pics. I am not picking on you are trying to stir trouble. I am just trying to give to advice and maybe give you an idea that you have not thought off.

Engineers have no trouble with these methods.
Shouldn't a wall that comes to a corner like that be tied together especially if there is a surcharge on the wall.

Jarod, jobs look great.
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  #1656  
Old 07-25-2009, 08:00 AM
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etwman etwman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Gemma View Post
picture 2 of the reshoots what material are those tiles and are they sealed
Thanks
Travertine.


The architect speced a 10" deep block on this last project so that grid would go in easier. We could have brought up the possibility of a different product without seams for grid, but sometimes not complicating things is the better option. I do agree that I'm not a huge fan of seams, but if you don't look for them from a distance you don't see them.
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  #1657  
Old 07-25-2009, 10:23 AM
mrusk mrusk is offline
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Lbf what are you taklking about? You can clearly see in my picture that the corner is weaved together. Furthur more we glue the corner and we even drill a hole and throw a versa lok pin in since the techo clip won't work in the corner.
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  #1658  
Old 07-25-2009, 07:00 PM
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Twitchy Twitchy is offline
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etwman is that a mortar joint between the bullnose coping and 6x6 border in the 1st pic? If so, why??? Never seen that before. The travertine patio looks awesome ,not really big around here yet...
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  #1659  
Old 07-26-2009, 12:21 PM
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etwman etwman is offline
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Originally Posted by Twitchy View Post
etwman is that a mortar joint between the bullnose coping and 6x6 border in the 1st pic? If so, why??? Never seen that before. The travertine patio looks awesome ,not really big around here yet...
It is a caulked foam expansion joint. If you don't put it in the freeze/thaw cycle will pop the coping when the pavers move in the winter. Keep in mind the coping is stationary. Fail to do it and you'll have a costly fix.
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  #1660  
Old 07-26-2009, 10:15 PM
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Twitchy Twitchy is offline
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Originally Posted by etwman View Post
It is a caulked foam expansion joint. If you don't put it in the freeze/thaw cycle will pop the coping when the pavers move in the winter. Keep in mind the coping is stationary. Fail to do it and you'll have a costly fix.
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Never had a problem before, but my next pool job I'm gonna take a look into that . Thanks etwman.
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