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  #11  
Old 11-16-2009, 09:05 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,903
You will get germination out of the holes, which may or may not survive long term. For even coverage at a better depth go with slit seeding.
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
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  #12  
Old 11-16-2009, 03:44 PM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kokomo, IN
Posts: 194
Thanks to everyone for all the good information!
I live in Kokomo, IN 60 miles north of Indy and my lawn is in very bad shape. About 25% of my 1 acre of grass has been sprayed out with round-up to kill the K31. The rest of my lawn is OK but I plan to new lawn the bare spots &over-seed the entire acre.
I plan to use Cisco Premium Sod Blend Grass seed which contain 5 different types of KBG. It is advertised at 130# / acre seed rate for a new lawn. If figure 100# will take care of the 20% bare spot & over-seed the rest. The seed cost $3.95 / #.
Cisco Premium Sod Blend
$3.95 / lb
Seed rate 130 / acre ****25%
Nu Destiny
Kentucky
bluegrass
Compact midnight type
7.1
6.3 25%
Impact
Kentucky
bluegrass
Compact midnight type
6.9
6.6 25%
Beyond
Kentucky
bluegrass
Compact midnight type
7.2
6.2 ****15%
Midnight
Kentucky
bluegrass
Compact midnight type
6.9
6.7 ****10%
Bewitched
Kentucky
bluegrass
Compact type
7.4
6.6

I plan to fertilize 3 times a year & cut the lawn at 4” but only water the front to keep in from going dormant in the summer heat. Watering an acre of grass is too much work w/o an irrigation system.
Here is my current plan:
1. Rent a power aerator & aerate the entire 1 acre – N & S then E & W – on the bare spots go on an additional 45 degree angle – estimate 8 hours
2. Rent an over-seeder – either Billy Goat w/ seed box in front or Bluebird w/ seed box in rear.
No specific model has been specified or recommended to date.
Power rake the entire 1 acre – N & S then E & W – on the bare spots go on an additional 45 degree angle – ( w/o grass seed) estimate 4 hours
3. Use pull behind lawn sweeper to pick up generated lawn thatch – 4 hours
4. Place “Cisco – Premium Sod Blend in over seeder & cut the recommended seed rate in ½ - then over seed the entire 1 acre going acre – N & S then E & W – on the bare spots go on an additional 45 degree angle – estimate 8 hours
5. Roll the lawn w/ any empty roller to press the seed into the soil
6. Apply starter fertilizer in early spring 2010.
7. Watch the grass Grow!!
Thanks!
Andy
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  #13  
Old 11-16-2009, 03:47 PM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kokomo, IN
Posts: 194
Thanks to everyone for all the good information!
I live in Kokomo, IN 60 miles north of Indy and my lawn is in very bad shape. About 25% of my 1 acre of grass has been sprayed out with round-up to kill the K31. The rest of my lawn is OK but I plan to new lawn the bare spots &over-seed the entire acre.
I plan to use Cisco Premium Sod Blend Grass seed which contain 5 different types of KBG. It is advertised at 130# / acre seed rate for a new lawn. If figure 100# will take care of the 20% bare spot & over-seed the rest. The seed cost $3.95 / #.
Cisco Premium Sod Blend
$3.95 / lb
Seed rate 130 / acre ****25%
Nu Destiny
Kentucky
bluegrass
Compact midnight type
7.1
6.3 25%
Impact
Kentucky
bluegrass
Compact midnight type
6.9
6.6 25%
Beyond
Kentucky
bluegrass
Compact midnight type
7.2
6.2 ****15%
Midnight
Kentucky
bluegrass
Compact midnight type
6.9
6.7 ****10%
Bewitched
Kentucky
bluegrass
Compact type
7.4
6.6

I plan to fertilize 3 times a year & cut the lawn at 4” but only water the front to keep in from going dormant in the summer heat. Watering an acre of grass is too much work w/o an irrigation system.
Here is my current plan:
1. Rent a power aerator & aerate the entire 1 acre – N & S then E & W – on the bare spots go on an additional 45 degree angle – estimate 8 hours
2. Rent an over-seeder – either Billy Goat w/ seed box in front or Bluebird w/ seed box in rear.
No specific model has been specified or recommended to date.
Power rake the entire 1 acre – N & S then E & W – on the bare spots go on an additional 45 degree angle – ( w/o grass seed) estimate 4 hours
3. Use pull behind lawn sweeper to pick up generated lawn thatch – 4 hours
4. Place “Cisco – Premium Sod Blend in over seeder & cut the recommended seed rate in ½ - then over seed the entire 1 acre going acre – N & S then E & W – on the bare spots go on an additional 45 degree angle – estimate 8 hours
5. Roll the lawn w/ any empty roller to press the seed into the soil
6. Apply starter fertilizer in early spring 2010.
7. Watch the grass Grow!!
Thanks!
Andy
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  #14  
Old 11-16-2009, 05:22 PM
Stevegotcrabgrass Stevegotcrabgrass is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 248
Sounds like a plan. I don't get why so many people say not to seed and aerate at the same time. I have had great results doing this. I drop 1/2 the seed. Aerate the Hell outta the area, then drop the other half of seed. Topdress with a little moss. after germination I will THEN add starter. This works for me. I have never done it on a NEW lawn though. I do it to thicken up an existing lawn.
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  #15  
Old 11-16-2009, 09:42 PM
Marcos Marcos is offline
LawnSite Gold Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Cincinnati OH
Posts: 3,756
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevegotcrabgrass View Post
Sounds like a plan. I don't get why so many people say not to seed and aerate at the same time. I have had great results doing this. I drop 1/2 the seed. Aerate the Hell outta the area, then drop the other half of seed. Topdress with a little moss. after germination I will THEN add starter. This works for me. I have never done it on a NEW lawn though. I do it to thicken up an existing lawn.
No problem with aerate & seed so long as there's some type of soil scarifing equipment (a.k.a 'slice-seeder') following the tracks of the core aerator.

The key to germination success is maximizing seed-to-soil contact as much as possible. This can't ususally be accomplished by the use of JUST a core aerator.

I like your idea of dropping 1/2 the seed 1st. I sometimes do this with a spreader B4 aerating, then let the slice-seeder drop the other 1/2 once the cores have dried out a little.
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  #16  
Old 11-24-2009, 11:04 AM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kokomo, IN
Posts: 194
Another important lawn seeding question:
Is it recommended to rent a power rank w/ flexible tines or can I use a Bluebird w/ rear seeder or Billy Goat w/ front seeder with fix tines?

I’m planning to start a 1 acre lawn dormant seeding rejuvenator project new week.
Y/day, the lawn equipment rental salesman indicated that I need to rent a single function dethatched “Classen” with flexible tines prior to using an over-seeder to remove the thatch and improve seed to soil contact. However, I was planning on running a Bluebird or Billy Goat over-seeder with fixed tines w/o seed to open up & remove the thatch. Then follow up w/ the over-seeder w/ grass seed. Which method is preferred?

Thanks for everyone help!
I want to do this right the 1st time!
Andy
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  #17  
Old 11-24-2009, 10:16 PM
turfcobob turfcobob is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 877
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevegotcrabgrass View Post
Sounds like a plan. I don't get why so many people say not to seed and aerate at the same time. I have had great results doing this. I drop 1/2 the seed. Aerate the Hell outta the area, then drop the other half of seed. Topdress with a little moss. after germination I will THEN add starter. This works for me. I have never done it on a NEW lawn though. I do it to thicken up an existing lawn.
Here is somethng else you can try that will help. Drag the lawn after the cores are about half dry and will break up nice. You can use a keystone drag mat or and old piece of chain link fence with some steel posts tied to it. Breaking up the cores drags the dirt and seeds into the low spots and holes.
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