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#11
03-04-2010, 09:45 AM
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Make sure you go with that new "plastic" wood.
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Kennedy Landscaping Truck & Trailer 1994 F-150 XLT 1995 7.3L F-250 XLT 4X4 2009 7x14 Trailmaster Lawn Division 48" Walker MT GHS 52" Gravely Pro Stance 36" Hustler Fastrack 21" Husqvarna XT7 Stihl KM-90 W/ FS-KM Stihl FS-85R Trimmer Stihl FC-95 Stick Edger Stihl BR-550 Backpack Blower Stihl HS-45 Hedge Trimmers Snapper Commercial Power Rake/Slit Seeder Ryan Aerator Husqvarna 235 Chainsaw 16" Bar Snow Division 1995 7.3L F-250 XLT 4X4 8' Western Uni-Mount Western Pro Flo 
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#12
03-06-2010, 11:14 PM
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Make sure if you remove the flat bar thats welded at the end of the trailer that you weld it back on when finished. This flat bar keeps the ends of the boards from rising up in a couple of years, if they rise up(warp), could be hell getting a mower off without dragging. This is why they weld a flat bar across the back, at least thats what the dealer told me today.
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Mike 2013 haulmark 18' trailer 2013 John Deere 52' walkbehind 2012 Gator with skid sprayer 2010 Turfco T-3000 2008 JD 997 2006 JD 647a 2004 JD 757 w/ 3 bag & Iron MCS 2002 JD 757 w/ 2 bag MCS 2002 JD 757 Stihl, Echo, Tanka 2 strokes Big Tex trailers Tons of other equipment
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#13
03-07-2010, 08:42 AM
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trust me, welding that flat lip piece back on is going to be the easiest way to do this!! but a 16ft piece of lumber should bend quite a bit to fit under that lip too. You could bolt it down too, but Ive not seen many trailers that have the wood bolted down. Just wear a mask when welding that piece back on!!! When I did this, the smoke it created was horrible, and the treated lumber has arsenic in it, so it is actually toxic smoke!!
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