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  #21  
Old 01-16-2008, 04:55 PM
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supercuts supercuts is offline
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going through old threads, these new carbs are adustable!! there is a small cylinder shaped hole that dead ends on the carb. you either need to drill it until it breaks through or there is a rubber cap you need to pry out. once you do, walla, you adjustment screw is awaiting your commands. it is very small though, you may need to file down your smaller screwdriver to fit in it.
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  #22  
Old 01-16-2008, 06:25 PM
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Envy Lawn Service Envy Lawn Service is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DARICEK LANDSCAPING View Post
going through old threads, these new carbs are adustable!! there is a small cylinder shaped hole that dead ends on the carb. you either need to drill it until it breaks through or there is a rubber cap you need to pry out. once you do, walla, you adjustment screw is awaiting your commands. it is very small though, you may need to file down your smaller screwdriver to fit in it.
Yeah, I was told RedMax had them like that too when I was asking about my hedge clippers.

Debating rather I'll do it myself or have it done under warranty this winter.
If it wasn't for the warranty, there would be no debate....
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  #23  
Old 01-16-2008, 06:57 PM
TOOLSHACK TOOLSHACK is offline
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The carb on the SRM-261T is ADJUSTABLE !!! The adjustment screw is hidden under a "limiter cap" that is required by the EPA. The limiter cap is located inside the hole on the top of the carb... where the rotor is (part that swivels when throttle cable is pulled). If you have a GOOD dealer in your area, he should have a service bulletin that shows him (and you) how to adjust the carb. If you run 89 octane and a synthetic oil at the CORRECT mixture, keep your air filter clean, and keep debris from building up on the exterior of the carb.... you shouldn't have any problems or need any adjustments.

Here's the deal... you can thank the fruits and nuts in California for screwing things up! The feds (EPA) then follows suit. They've made emissions standards so tight on outdoor power equipment that they run on a very fine line now. Some companies have found ways to stay 2 stroke and meet emissions standards... others are trying 4 stroke and hybrid technologies (although with varied success). And guess what... it's only gonna get worse in the next few years. Ratcheting gas caps (like on your truck or car) are already on the way... as are non-permeable fuel lines, fuel tanks.... and those plastic gas cans we all like... they may go away soon too. Unfortunately, there's no fighting it...so just accept the change and make sure you do preventitive maintenance and operate your equipment EXACTLY as your operator's manual dictates.
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  #24  
Old 01-16-2008, 08:17 PM
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D & J Lawn Care D & J Lawn Care is offline
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i had the same problem with my 261t and when finally started soon as i hit the throttle it would bog down so i bought a new carb$45 and just put it on myself it doesn't bog but is a pain to start so now it's on my back up weedeater rack and got a shindiwia 260 but my 2# echo 230's start like nothing

Last edited by D & J Lawn Care; 01-16-2008 at 08:22 PM.
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  #25  
Old 01-16-2008, 09:47 PM
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ed2hess ed2hess is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D & J Lawn Care View Post
i had the same problem with my 261t and when finally started soon as i hit the throttle it would bog down so i bought a new carb$45 and just put it on myself it doesn't bog but is a pain to start so now it's on my back up weedeater rack and got a shindiwia 260 but my 2# echo 230's start like nothing
My 2 cents..you probably spent $45 for nothing since the old carb is adjustable and an could be adjusted to fix the bog situation. And those carb are easy to rebuild, kit cost $8.
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  #26  
Old 03-28-2010, 01:36 AM
Stuart Lawn Care Inc. Stuart Lawn Care Inc. is offline
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261T and 260 carb problems

I do have 5 of these carbs. 2 line trimmers, 2 edgers, 1 pole hedge trimmer, and one of my pb 620 started prblems, quickly straitened that carb. Bought new late 05, then the doubles, early 06. Impressed with power vs weight, and strait shaft and the torque. They got me good in summer 07 ver fustrating. In and out of shop, never got solved. So I just WOT, and choke off/on repetively for literally minutes, if started, otherwise they bog and shut down. When cold, good to go, after 10am did my little trick, it helped. After 2pm was very fustrating, so I alternated them (which helped). Convinced from the shop, the heat in the enclosed trailer in Central Florida, was the problem. Had to work, so I delt with it. I was told there is not an upgrade/adaptions for this style. They're warriors with the strait shaft, and gear head. The heat is back, and I really like them, so not wanting to buy a different make or model. I done toro's and echo's for 12 years now. I'm not a bandwagon person, so I'm looking for a suggestion that may have been overlooked, or even something homemade, since warranty isn't around. If any one has a cure or idea, throw it at me. Feel free for suggestions, with other problems you may have with toro or echo, I have done other tweeks that may be helpful to you. I'm late to this site, just found it today (very helpful/impressed of this site). My email address should be tagged, I'll take in all info, and willing to try and improve this situation.
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  #27  
Old 03-28-2010, 09:12 AM
LwnmwrMan22 LwnmwrMan22 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildWest View Post
Well, sorta, you have to remove the grey plactic cover thats over the muffler...then the 2 or 3 screws that are on the exhaust port (if you shine a flashlight right where the exhaust comes out, you can see the screen), that's where the screen is. Toss it!
Some of the issues can be from the carbon buildup at the exhaust port too.

If it runs when it's cold, then starts to bog when it's hot, it's because the exhaust can't escape the engine.

Pull your muffler off so you can see the exhaust port all the way to the cylinder.

I used to just throw these trimmers away every year (2-3) because the guys said they would quit working.

Two winters ago I dug into one after reading posts on here.

I found that the biggest problem on ALL of them was the carbon buildup. I scraped the buildup out of the exhaust port, making sure that the piston was all the way up to keep carbon from going into the cylinder.

They ALL ran just like new.

I ended up making a killing on used trimmers that spring, selling each of them for $150 each on CL.
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  #28  
Old 03-28-2010, 11:13 AM
tallimeca tallimeca is offline
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Can we put this as a sticky????

ECHO DON'T MAKE CARBURETORS.........

So when you say you hate Echo, or Redmax or any other brand because they have bad carburetors......you sound like a fool........

They are made by Walbro or Zama for the most part and they have model numbers for the carbs...........which are used by any and all manufacturers!!!!

To add to the post......the 261 model is a C.A.R.B. model.....which is typically sold in california. Being you are in florida.......did you buy it at a dealer?

There was a line of K series carbs on the 260 power heads about 5 years back that had no adjustments. Replacement carbs for those had adjustments. Otherwise, all their carbs on all their products, with exception of some units sold in California......were adjustable.

Maybe the issue is not the carburetor. Everyone is so quick to over look other issues and assume it's carburation and start turning the screws to compensate (usually compromising the engine)......because you have a faulty ignition module, or an seal or gasket leak......


If you have a unit that has constant carb adjusting issues......it's not the carb. Crank case needs to be pressure and vac tested for leaks....... Turning the screws on the carb without using a tach is only going to lead to rich or lean running.....because you CAN NOT adjust it correctly with just your ears.

Good Luck!!!
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  #29  
Old 03-29-2010, 02:24 AM
Stuart Lawn Care Inc. Stuart Lawn Care Inc. is offline
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Location: Lake & Orange County FL
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Appreciate poositive feed back

Appreciate the quick possitive feed back. I spent all weekend working/researching on these carbs. You can tell of my times of posts/quotes , but one weird thing for me was the line trimmer that ran the best, was the one with huge build up in the exhaust port, the rest were no worth messing with. I have been cleaning, changing line, plugs, caps, filter, every thing could think of. I do run without the guard, and exhaust screen since day two. Now since the line is out past where the guard would be, technically it'll bog, so was told to set a little leaner. Tried adjusting by shop labor, in the guarge in the eves, after running, and mid day in the heat. Results are always the same. It just might be a heat thing in FL, all the guys around here have same problems. Now I work by myself, the tools should have plenty of time to cool down the trailer is open when doing other stuff, and have side force vents when going down the round. I'm puzzeled, I am stuck on these models they are warriors, i put the brush blade on and work WOT till they run out of gas, fill up and do it again. Soon as I put it up get to next service location there's the problem. Changed from side rack to hanging them, (carb design it souldn't matter) still no difference. If it was just one carb no biggie but all 5 there's something there. I have done some weird/crazy stuff, no matter what we did with a VW carb on a rail buggy it wouldn't run, I poured comet in there held it WOT until it was about to pop, then ran like a dream for a couple years then got sold. I'm just Puzzled. "Thank You Though" I've ben determined to find a solution.

Last edited by Stuart Lawn Care Inc.; 03-29-2010 at 02:28 AM. Reason: direct to LwnmwrMan22
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  #30  
Old 03-29-2010, 02:36 AM
Stuart Lawn Care Inc. Stuart Lawn Care Inc. is offline
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Location: Lake & Orange County FL
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261t problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by LwnmwrMan22 View Post
Some of the issues can be from the carbon buildup at the exhaust port too.

If it runs when it's cold, then starts to bog when it's hot, it's because the exhaust can't escape the engine.

Pull your muffler off so you can see the exhaust port all the way to the cylinder.

I used to just throw these trimmers away every year (2-3) because the guys said they would quit working.

Two winters ago I dug into one after reading posts on here.

I found that the biggest problem on ALL of them was the carbon buildup. I scraped the buildup out of the exhaust port, making sure that the piston was all the way up to keep carbon from going into the cylinder.

They ALL ran just like new.

I ended up making a killing on used trimmers that spring, selling each of them for $150 each on CL.
New on/how to work this site. It's 2 am but got a reply 1 block up. Did it wrong I guess. Thanks Man

Last edited by Stuart Lawn Care Inc.; 03-29-2010 at 02:43 AM. Reason: wrote/replied wrong
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