Register free!
Search
 
     

The Green Industry's Resource Center


Click for Weather
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #31  
Old 03-29-2010, 07:21 AM
topsites topsites is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Richmond Virginia
Posts: 21,677
Strange, I've got a 2003 srm-260s with at least 3 years full-time use to it,
and I don't recall ever replacing the carburetor.

I also find it odd, that story of the "new" carbs was going on back then as well...
Makes me wonder just how long this supposedly "new" design has been around?
But no, to my understanding they can not be adjusted, however this is rarely the problem even on carbs that can be...

Just strange they'd have to replace the carb, twice.
I suspect a faulty coil, which is the LAST thing the dealer wants to replace as to my
understanding they carry a lifetime warranty.

Oh, one more thing: DEMAND your old parts!
Anytime a dealer replaces something, before (or at the time of) dropping your equipment off,
make SURE to tell them, YOU want your old PARTS!
Otherwise they'll tell you they threw it in the garbage, gone...
They're not supposed to, anytime a customer requests old parts they should still have them, but what can you do?

How do I know...
My trimmer sat for 2-3 years not running right, all the while getting dumb looks at the dealership,
in the end it was the coil and I went through a bit of trouble to get them to fix it!
Yeah, now that's on top of it being me who had to figure it out, that trimmer sat in their shop for months on end.

Not saying that's necessarily the problem here, but it could be.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LwnmwrMan22 View Post
If it runs when it's cold, then starts to bog when it's hot, it's because the exhaust can't escape the engine.
To my understanding when it does that it's usually the coil!

Last edited by topsites; 03-29-2010 at 07:30 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 03-29-2010, 08:31 AM
KarambaStar KarambaStar is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chilly City,
Posts: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by topsites View Post
Strange, I've got a 2003 srm-260s with at least 3 years full-time use to it,
and I don't recall ever replacing the carburetor.

I also find it odd, that story of the "new" carbs was going on back then as well...
Makes me wonder just how long this supposedly "new" design has been around?
But no, to my understanding they can not be adjusted, however this is rarely the problem even on carbs that can be...

Just strange they'd have to replace the carb, twice.
I suspect a faulty coil, which is the LAST thing the dealer wants to replace as to my
understanding they carry a lifetime warranty.

Oh, one more thing: DEMAND your old parts!
Anytime a dealer replaces something, before (or at the time of) dropping your equipment off,
make SURE to tell them, YOU want your old PARTS!
Otherwise they'll tell you they threw it in the garbage, gone...
They're not supposed to, anytime a customer requests old parts they should still have them, but what can you do?

How do I know...
My trimmer sat for 2-3 years not running right, all the while getting dumb looks at the dealership,
in the end it was the coil and I went through a bit of trouble to get them to fix it!
Yeah, now that's on top of it being me who had to figure it out, that trimmer sat in their shop for months on end.

Not saying that's necessarily the problem here, but it could be.



To my understanding when it does that it's usually the coil!
As dealers we sometimes have to submit defective parts to the manufacturer for testing, so we won't always have the old parts around.
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 03-29-2010, 11:04 AM
GlynnC GlynnC is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Nashville Tennessee
Posts: 469
Topsites, I use to demand old parts from shop, then it occurred to me that they could be giving me just any old part--maybe from their scrap pile. If a shop is dishonest, there's lots of ways to be dishonest.

Best way is to learn to do most of the work yourself--and I know you do topsites--I'm just talking in general here. Take it in if it's still in warranty--do it yourself if not!!! It doesn't take but a couple of succeses to get you hooked, and to put you ahead dollar wise--and yes, you will have a few goofs along the way!!!
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 03-29-2010, 11:50 AM
ALC-GregH's Avatar
ALC-GregH ALC-GregH is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 7,053
I haven't had any carb issues with my Echo equipment. Going on 10 years without touching ANYTHING. Trimmer and blower.
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 04-03-2010, 02:48 AM
Stuart Lawn Care Inc. Stuart Lawn Care Inc. is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lake & Orange County FL
Posts: 5
261 t prob

Quote:
Originally Posted by D & J Lawn Care View Post
i had the same problem with my 261t and when finally started soon as i hit the throttle it would bog down so i bought a new carb$45 and just put it on myself it doesn't bog but is a pain to start so now it's on my back up weedeater rack and got a shindiwia 260 but my 2# echo 230's start like nothing
Yeah i,m looking for someone nearby me 2.5 hrs away, but you have one of the first sgns. If you had these problems under warr. what was the answer they gave you? I was convinced the heat build up of heat inclosedtrailer messed with the carbs. Well now, i beleive the front side vent to push air (no roof )and in back vent would pull (a two way openeing angled out to push PULL)out is the most effficient ventalation to supposeively help. But what carb did you put on that a pain to start? i see it the ventaltions between runs and gate dropped to mow then do foot work will have enough time to let them cool down. Plenty of time. But still have to alternate the doubles cause wont start or choke open close continuously help till normal running conditions litle embarrassing. I have seen worse. Even tried the new gas, i have to be missing out on something. It all started majorly 07 but mostly when the heat is on you. ECHOS are warriors there has to be something over looked. Any info let me in. We in same enviroment.
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 04-03-2010, 03:03 AM
Stuart Lawn Care Inc. Stuart Lawn Care Inc. is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lake & Orange County FL
Posts: 5
im on trial and error, doing each piece a little different to see what works. THANKS if it does good keep u posted
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 05-16-2010, 01:57 PM
RBatten RBatten is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 101
I am having a bogging issue with a SRM 230. Starts great, idles great, hit the throttle and it bogs down. Ran great for 2-3 weeks after carb rebuild, ran great half of the day and then started to bog down, as if you turn a switch on.

Here is what has been done so far. I am not a mechanic but handy non the less. This problem has me stumped.

Rebuilt carb twice, once before problem, once after
Changed carb altogether
changed spark plug, and coil
fuel lines and filter, even tried without filter
removed muffler couldn't find screen, ran without muffler

I am lost any help would be appreciated.
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 05-16-2010, 02:58 PM
GlynnC GlynnC is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Nashville Tennessee
Posts: 469
Quote:
Originally Posted by RBatten View Post
I am having a bogging issue with a SRM 230. Starts great, idles great, hit the throttle and it bogs down. Ran great for 2-3 weeks after carb rebuild, ran great half of the day and then started to bog down, as if you turn a switch on.

Here is what has been done so far. I am not a mechanic but handy non the less. This problem has me stumped.

Rebuilt carb twice, once before problem, once after
Changed carb altogether
changed spark plug, and coil
fuel lines and filter, even tried without filter
removed muffler couldn't find screen, ran without muffler

I am lost any help would be appreciated.
What do you mean, "ran without muffler"? If it ran okay without the muffler, either the muffler is carboned up, or the screen is plugged. On the SRM230, the screen is behind a little exhaust deflector plate, held with 2 screws onto the muffler. If not plugged screen, then burn out muffler with propane torch. While muffler is removed, check the exhaust port on the engine--remove carbon deposits. Be careful--I use a popcicle stick for this--screwdriver can scratch a piston or cylinder.
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 05-16-2010, 03:10 PM
RBatten RBatten is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 101
I took the muffler completely off. I could see the piston going up and down. It still bogged down when throttled.
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 05-16-2010, 04:54 PM
ed2hess's Avatar
ed2hess ed2hess is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Austin Texas 78727
Posts: 11,602
You might need to go to the next level.....you need to inspect to see if both crank seals are in place. The one behind the clutch is hard to see but if there is oil coming out you can see it and normally it is the recoil side that comes out. I guess you put new fuel lines and replaced the two gaskets for the carb. If that isn't the problem pull the head and clean out the transfer ports and be sure the rings are free. Put on new head gasket when you put the head back on. And it that doesn't get it then go to the shop and have them do a leak test or do it youself if you have the tools.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1998 - 2012, LawnSite.comô - Moose River Media
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:11 AM.

Page generated in 0.13208 seconds with 9 queries