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  #21  
Old 07-26-2010, 11:48 AM
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jonthepain jonthepain is offline
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Thanks for the link TB! I didn't know there were so many hydro contractors in our area.

When I get a handle on timing I'll shoot you a PM and see if you want to come down.

Hopefully by the end of the year.

btw I know that IBM campus - my son used to work there as a programmer.

thanks again
jon
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  #22  
Old 07-26-2010, 10:11 PM
Chattybirds Chattybirds is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
Water saturation, does a more thorough, and even job of that. Then when it dries it is full of air, and structure forms during that process. Superficial raking with a broom rake may or may not be desirable.
you both have valid points, if i dont compact the soil with a roller, would it be safe to run a tractor over top the loose soil with a pull behind spreader without disrupting the soil to much? or is that where i should spread it with a walk-behind spreader?
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  #23  
Old 07-27-2010, 09:47 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chattybirds View Post
you both have valid points, if i dont compact the soil with a roller, would it be safe to run a tractor over top the loose soil with a pull behind spreader without disrupting the soil to much? or is that where i should spread it with a walk-behind spreader?
Run the tractor over it when it is dry, to minimize the damage. Hopefully the ruts will disappear, when you soak it down.
The thing I always noticed with pulling a roller around with the tractor, that the tractor ruts also appeared in the roller track. Harder for the ruts to blend in under those circumstances... At least in heavier soils.
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #24  
Old 07-27-2010, 10:36 AM
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Fireguy97 Fireguy97 is offline
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This is all great advice, but as was said before, without an irrigation system to keep the seed moist during germination, you will be back to the same situation as you have now. If you can't keep the turf irrigated, you will have an ugly mass of weeds/lawn again.

Don't forget to get before, during, and after pictures.

Mick
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  #25  
Old 07-27-2010, 07:42 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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We had 3 acres of renovation in a woods. What we did, was level, add topsoil, seed by hand and run a hose to the spot and had it go everyday, until it germinated. Then we were ready to seed the next spot.
Fortunately, the HO on that job believed, that it is better to do one spot well, than to deal with mediocrity or failure, over all.
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #26  
Old 07-27-2010, 11:08 PM
Cloud9Landscapes Cloud9Landscapes is offline
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+1 on the irrigation. Any lawn should have a irrigation system.
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  #27  
Old 07-28-2010, 08:15 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Another method, that was commonly done, on large areas w/out irr.; was to prep the lawn then put the seed down after the growing season was over. Relying on winter snow and spring rains to establish the entire area.
Cut high to eliminate the CG getting started next season, rather than the Pre-M. You do not want to stunt the root growth, of young plants trying to establish, b4 the hot dry summer.
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #28  
Old 07-31-2010, 11:33 PM
Chattybirds Chattybirds is offline
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ok smallaxe, makes good sense...Thanks everyone for posting! much appreciated!
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