Register free!
Search
 
     

Click for Weather
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 02-19-2003, 09:57 AM
xpnd xpnd is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Mckinney TX
Posts: 378
Quote:
Originally posted by greenman
Why not just use the same pre-m for the beds that you put on the turf, apply at the same time, and kill two birds with one stone?
Some types of pre-emergents such as simazine, can not be put down on beds with evergreen shrubs. Simazine will burn the foilage of larger shrubs and will outright kill smaller ones if applied at the high end of the app rates. The label will indicate weather it is restricted to dormant plant/turf apps only.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 02-19-2003, 08:09 PM
greenman greenman is offline
LawnSite Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 1,405
Yeah, forgot about simazine. Simazine, as well as Atrazine are, I thought, more commonly used for poa annual control and winter weeds, not as a pre-m for spring application. I meant like pendimethalin or dithiopyr, the more commonly used.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 02-19-2003, 08:53 PM
GroundKprs GroundKprs is offline
LawnSite Bronze Member
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: South Bend, IN
Posts: 1,969
Treflan is trifluralin; works OK on a couple of dozen, mostly grassy, weeds. Snapshot is trifluralin + isoxaben, controls over 100 grassy and broadleaf weeds. Not much of a difficult choice, LOL.

And if you know how to mulch or renew mulch properly, a preemergent under the mulch is a wasted application in most cool season areas.
__________________
Jim
North central Indiana
<a href="http://members.aol.com/groundkprs/Entry/Educate.html">Learn About Turfgrass</a>
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 02-19-2003, 10:03 PM
UTM-PIKE UTM-PIKE is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Middle Tennessee
Posts: 65
Please Explain

I was wandering what you meant by applying mulch properly. Do you mean 3-4 inches instead of 1-2 ??? I was getting ready to apply and mulch in middle Tennessee and didnt want to if not needed, but this is the transition zone betw/ warm and cool season. Please elaborate.
__________________
Phi Phi Kappa Alpha
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 02-20-2003, 12:29 AM
GroundKprs GroundKprs is offline
LawnSite Bronze Member
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: South Bend, IN
Posts: 1,969
It used to be that you got hardwood shredded bark mulch composed basically of tree bark, stripped off of logs at lumber mills. This product was true shredded bark, with very little wood content. In fact, specifications of national bark and soil manufacturers had a rule that product could not be labeled "shredded bark" if wood content was more than 15%. And today they grind up wood pallets and call it mulch, LOL.

When you applied this product (shredded bark) on a new site, on bare soil, you applied at 3" deep. This would smother any weed seeds; once they germinated, they could not get light to grow. By the following spring, decay had reduced bark depth to 2" or less, and weeds seeds had blown into beds from summer weeds in the fall, thus sitting on top of the bark. So you would renew in spring with 1" to 1Ĺ" of new shredded bark. Following years spring renewal was 1", and you watched to make sure bark depth did not exceed 3". If the 1" was applied EVENLY, no weed seeds would be able to grow, because they do not have energy to grow up 1" before getting sunlight. Only things that would grow were tree seeds, because they have energy to grow up 4" to 8" thru a carpet of leaves in the forest. A preemergent was a waste then, if you applied your shredded bark properly.

Now remember, shredded bark and mulch are not synonymous. A mulch is just a cover over bare soil. You can mulch with shredded bark, wood chip refuse from a tree service, gravel, pine straw, or many other products. BUT, in using coarser products, like gravel or ground up wood pallets, you do not get the blocking of sunlight to the weed seeds you are covering. Enough light can filter through 4" of coarse gravel to allow weeds that deep to survive. I do use a lot of Snapshot in gravel beds in parking lot islands.

In the last 20 years, the availability of true shredded bark has just about vanished. Many suppliers will call their product "shredded bark", but in fact is is mostly wood, not bark. And wood chunks will not give you the compact, light stopping quality of shredded bark, or other finely ground products. During the late 80s and all thru the 90s, the price of "shredded bark" here did not go up at all. What was happening was that the bulk suppliers were just cutting more wood refuse into it each year. In some cases whole trees, or large limbs, are ground up for mulch.

To me, a proper mulching is using a product that will block sunlight as I noted above. And the persons spreading it have to spread it evenly to get the effect of weed control from that mulch. For the last 10 years, the only way I have been able to get the mulch product I want is to buy bulk "shredded bark", and then grind it myself to the consistency I want for mulching my beds. (And I spend a lot of time looking for product with least amount of wood in it.) Our city organic waste recycling grinds brush to use for mulching. This product, at $4/cuyd, is much more effective than the $23/cuyd junk that is fobbed off on the green industry here.

You just have to look around at what is available, and I guess even then you might be stuck with using a pre-emergent along with your mulch. But if you can find a proper mulch, to be effective at the depth you are applying, and you can apply it evenly, a preemergent is not necessary.
__________________
Jim
North central Indiana
<a href="http://members.aol.com/groundkprs/Entry/Educate.html">Learn About Turfgrass</a>
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 02-20-2003, 10:10 AM
turfcare's Avatar
turfcare turfcare is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Winchester, TN
Posts: 276
Hey Guys,
I appreciate all the helpful information, you have been a big help!
__________________
Lawnscape
Professional Lawn Care
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 02-22-2003, 11:15 PM
Trav Trav is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Wild Wild West
Posts: 56
snapshot and ronstar

Does anyone know the sq ft coverage of snapshot and ronstar per 50lbs bag? thanks
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 02-27-2003, 05:30 PM
goose goose is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Birmingham , Alabama
Posts: 176
Snapshot!!! 17,000 sq ft per 50 lb bag

Last edited by goose; 02-27-2003 at 06:15 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 02-27-2003, 06:21 PM
GroundKprs GroundKprs is offline
LawnSite Bronze Member
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: South Bend, IN
Posts: 1,969
For chemical coverage, go to http://www.cdms.net/manuf/acProducts.asp or to http://www.bluebooktor.com/asp/free_b.asp to read it right off the labels. Rates vary with location and desired use.

And it can be beneficial to switch chemicals after a few years. Most all chemicals are degraded by soil microbal activity. If you use the same chemical, or chemical family, year after year, you are increasing the population of the specific microbes that degrade that chemical. And you are then accelerating the breakdown of your future applications.
__________________
Jim
North central Indiana
<a href="http://members.aol.com/groundkprs/Entry/Educate.html">Learn About Turfgrass</a>
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1998 - 2012, LawnSite.comô - Moose River Media
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:17 PM.

Page generated in 0.09832 seconds with 9 queries