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#11
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Ok well I replaced a solenoid last week and just lost another today. Also had a section stick on due to liming. Awesome!
So I decided to test my heat theory today. I drilled 20 small holes to vent the valve box the manifold is in, and rerouted my bleed line to bleed on top of the solenoids instead of 20 foot away to a tree. This should help bring the heat in the box down. We shall see. Posted via Mobile Device |
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#12
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s.s.g.,
you have 26 vac @ the controller. what's your supply to the controller read? what's the length of run / wire size? have you checked vlts. @ valves? i checked the specs on the solenoid, holding .225a @ 24 vac - inrush .400a @ 24 vac. is it possible that you have enough drop that the system is under and not over current? |
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#13
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I only have about 12 foot from the controller to the solenoids on 16awg multiconductor.
It seems they work fine until it gets hot and super dry then they start dropping like flies. I have long run times on the zones and hour 20 mins, and the box is full sun and located in a dry non-irrigated area next to a parking lot. It really wouldnt surprise me if the box was 160 degrees during a run cycle. Thats why I am assuming heat. |
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#14
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Quote:
Reduce the run times and do multiple starts so that the solenoids aren't on for long periods of time. |
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#15
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Good idea! Im up against my watering window with 11 zones, but I can set multiple start times for the two programs. I will do that tommorow when I got back to pressure up. (They were painting the fields today.)
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#16
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Was this system originally run from a pedestal-mount hydraulic controller?
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#17
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Yes. At some point we will retrofit it.
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#18
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Toro used to make individual hydraulic convertors that were more or less based on their two-screw solenoids. Maybe they do better in your conditions.
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