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  #11  
Old 01-23-2011, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by qualitylawnpro View Post
im wondering how good paint will stick to the insert after having ff on it?
I would have to wait a while. I would wait until I put a few loads of grass and leaves in and out of there. Than clean and let dry. By then most of it would be worn enough away that I'm pretty confident that paint would stick on there.
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  #12  
Old 01-23-2011, 11:05 PM
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sandbast or at least sand first, otherwise you are wasting time and money on painting. dont forget indsutrial primer first
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  #13  
Old 01-23-2011, 11:19 PM
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sandbast or at least sand first, otherwise you are wasting time and money on painting. dont forget indsutrial primer first
I'm thinking sandblasting. I will keep the industrial primer in mind! Thanks dude!
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  #14  
Old 01-24-2011, 01:43 AM
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sandblasting can be done reasonably if you shop around. there is a very huge dif in price for the same job if you call 4 dif guys here i know. make sure to make lots of calls before settling on a contractor to do it, unless of course you can do it yourself or a buddy can do it for you.
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  #15  
Old 01-24-2011, 09:52 AM
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ah painting, a place that can have as many varying opinions as what truck to by

hey bill you have a few options to consider before painting. obviously sandblasting would be the most professional but, after you get the quotes (i have no idea what it will cost, never had anything blasted before) take some time to ask yourself if it will really be worth it? i mean it is gonna get roughed up again, more than likely it will get roughed up quickly too. would you be better off taking an hour or so to scuff everything with red scotch pads, hitting the real rough patches with a 36 grit disc and then just using the red primer rustoleum makes specifically for rusted metal then paint over that? up here it's $33 or so for a gallon. just beware that the metal must still be rusty. i used it on a plow years ago (it was all i had) that i had completely sanded with 24 grit so it was almost clean and while it appeared to adhere paint and primer came off the first time we used it. needless to say i learned my lesson the hard way lol


now then if you do have it sandblasted my personal preference for primer would be the spray cans of rustoleum professional grey. they're a pita on big projects cause that kind is only sold in spray can but neither i nor my dad (who's been an autobody repair/painter for 30+yrs) have ever seen a primer stand up to more abuse than that stuff.


as for paint, i've always used rustoleum for projects like that. heck we even painted the gmc with it a few years ago but i gotta tell ya i am really impressed with the way the valspar i got a tractor supply has held up on the plows. i don't know if it's just because they sell the hardner for it or what but i think from now on that's what i'll be using for paint

ok imma get off my soap box now
  #16  
Old 01-24-2011, 12:05 PM
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Another beautiful thread! Thanks for the pics and the information!!
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  #17  
Old 01-24-2011, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKYNYRD View Post
ah painting, a place that can have as many varying opinions as what truck to by

hey bill you have a few options to consider before painting. obviously sandblasting would be the most professional but, after you get the quotes (i have no idea what it will cost, never had anything blasted before) take some time to ask yourself if it will really be worth it? i mean it is gonna get roughed up again, more than likely it will get roughed up quickly too. would you be better off taking an hour or so to scuff everything with red scotch pads, hitting the real rough patches with a 36 grit disc and then just using the red primer rustoleum makes specifically for rusted metal then paint over that? up here it's $33 or so for a gallon. just beware that the metal must still be rusty. i used it on a plow years ago (it was all i had) that i had completely sanded with 24 grit so it was almost clean and while it appeared to adhere paint and primer came off the first time we used it. needless to say i learned my lesson the hard way lol


now then if you do have it sandblasted my personal preference for primer would be the spray cans of rustoleum professional grey. they're a pita on big projects cause that kind is only sold in spray can but neither i nor my dad (who's been an autobody repair/painter for 30+yrs) have ever seen a primer stand up to more abuse than that stuff.


as for paint, i've always used rustoleum for projects like that. heck we even painted the gmc with it a few years ago but i gotta tell ya i am really impressed with the way the valspar i got a tractor supply has held up on the plows. i don't know if it's just because they sell the hardner for it or what but i think from now on that's what i'll be using for paint

ok imma get off my soap box now
Thanks for the info George...I appreciate it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dano50 View Post
Another beautiful thread! Thanks for the pics and the information!!
No problem Dano...hopefully I'll be makin an order soon and have a bunch more pics.
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  #18  
Old 01-24-2011, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by DLAWNS View Post
Thanks for the info George...I appreciate it!



No problem Dano...hopefully I'll be makin an order soon and have a bunch more pics.
if you were closer id say drop it off and pick it up in a week well, once the warm weather hits that is
  #19  
Old 01-24-2011, 02:53 PM
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look also at powder coating, it is way stronger than paint.

it is all about cost though i agree
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  #20  
Old 01-24-2011, 03:46 PM
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SKYNYRD SKYNYRD is offline
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powdercoating is not all it's cracked up to be. you get so much as a pin hole in powder coat and you just opened yourself up to rust like you've never seen before. the moisture will get behind the powder coat, not dry out and rust your metal faster than ever before. seen it happen way too many times with plows, plow pistons, my mower, picnic table, i've never seen anything that was powder coated last longer than real primer/paint
 

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