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  #1  
Old 05-13-2011, 07:51 PM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kokomo, IN
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Are 2 applications of Crabgrass Plus required?

I renovated my 2 acre Kokomo, IN lot last fall & the results have been very good to date.

I applied Cisco crabgrass preventer plus 6 weeks ago & so far so good. No crabgrass to date & very few weeds.

http://www.mybusinesslisting.com/r/u...Nvc2VlZHMuY29t

I cut the new turf at the ZTR maximum setting near 4”.
The new turf is also very thick and the ZTR struggles to cut it at maximum speed.

The Toro Personal Pace mulching mower also struggles & leave grass behind.

Is having a lawn this thick advantageous or should I start to worry about it being too thick?

It required mowing every 3 days or the grass will clump & required the pull behind lawn sweeper, another unwanted process!

Is it recommend that I apply another application of crabgrass plus or can I use the std weed & feed?

Thanks!
Andy
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Old 05-13-2011, 08:27 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Cutting at 4" and being very thick, I doubt that CG is your biggest problem to look forward too...

There is not a big chance of CG coming into your lawn the way it sounds you are setting yourself up for thatch and Fungal diseases... Inhibiting the root growth with herbicides right now is not a good idea..
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:33 AM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
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Thanks for the response!
"Inhibiting the root growth with herbicides right now is not a good idea".
I understand this to mean you do not recommend the "weed & feed" at this time.
Why?
How about 2-4D applied w/ a pull behind sprayer & then an application of standard fertilizer?
Thanks!
Andy
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:22 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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This is your first year of seedling growth, correct? You have already stifled root growth with herbicide, and pushed leaf growth to an unnatural level... You want root growth to be strong and healthy first and foremost...

It might be a good eductation for everyone to jab a spade into the lawn and open up a cross-section view to look at... See is you have 4-6 inches of strong root systems, or if all the root growth occurs at the surface as thatch...

2,4D is for broadleaf weeds, which is best spot sprayed after the weeds come up... broadcasting an entire lawn will do nothing to prevent broadleaf weeds, and it does have another detrimental effect on grasses, even though they can survive...

Overfertilizing and overwatering will cause big problems in short order and you are on the fasttrack...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #5  
Old 05-16-2011, 12:42 AM
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DA Quality Lawn & YS DA Quality Lawn & YS is offline
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True test for crabgrass is yet to come....not now too early.
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  #6  
Old 05-17-2011, 06:16 PM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
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Thanks for the reply!
However, I'm a little confused as to what is currently being recommended for a 2010 fall seeded lawn.
Should I apply?
1. Straight fertilizer
2. Fertilizer w/ crabgrass preventer – last year’s crabgrass was extreme!
3. Weed & feed
4. Another recommendation.

Thanks!
Andy
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  #7  
Old 05-17-2011, 08:41 PM
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Hineline Hineline is offline
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I agree with Smallaxe. I'd catch up on the mowing for now while the wet spring growth is happening and when you can cut without making a mess I might think about another shot of a good starter to provide a good balance of across the board nutrition. One of the keys to a great lawn is keeping it cut properly and feeding it. If you can't keep up with the cutting then feeding it more will just weaken it and make it less dense.
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Old 05-17-2011, 09:32 PM
Hissing Cobra Hissing Cobra is offline
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If it were my lawn, I'd fertilize it with a slow releasing fertilizer with a good amount of Potassium (Lesco's 21-3-21 + 2% Iron @ 75% slow release or similar product?) to help stimulate root growth. The slow release will slow the surge of top growth while the Potassium will help with root growth). I'd also skip the Weed & Feed application. Why would I skip it? Because it does NOT prevent weeds from growing. It merely kills what's in the lawn at the time of application. If you have hardly any weeds, don't invest in the more pricey product because you'll literally be wasting the weed control and spending more money to boot. Instead, invest in a good packpack sprayer and buy a gallon jug of weed control (Lesco's Eliminate-D, Gordon's Speedzone Southern or similar products) and spot treat the weeds as they pop up (be careful to NOT spray when the temperatures are higher than 80 degrees) as some damage to the lawn could occur.

You said that your Crabgrass pre-emergent product went down about 6 weeks ago (42 days ago). At around the 75 day mark (June 20th?), I would apply another dose of it but without fertilizer. My reasoning is that you said that Crabgrass was unbearable last year and you'll have millions of seeds just waiting to grow after your first application breaks down (I typically see it breaking down in our area at 90 days). This will protect you for the rest of the Crabgrass growing season.

So, to quickly break it down, I would do the following:

Now: Apply slow releasing fertilizer with a good percentage of Potassium (slow surge growth, improve roots)
June 20th - 2nd dose of Crabgrass pre-emergent control WITHOUT fertilizer
July 1st - Fertilizer + Merit (Grub Control)

This is just my recommendation, that's all.

Last edited by Hissing Cobra; 05-17-2011 at 09:41 PM.
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