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  #11  
Old 07-29-2011, 09:05 AM
pugs pugs is offline
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Look at the Start Relay. The relay is grounded at 85. You need power at 86 to energize the relay and cause 30 to be connected to 87.
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  #12  
Old 07-29-2011, 09:39 AM
sdunlimited sdunlimited is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pugs View Post
Look at the Start Relay. The relay is grounded at 85. You need power at 86 to energize the relay and cause 30 to be connected to 87.
Thanks - do you know if I need a full 12v at 86 so the relay makes the 30/87 connection? At the key switch, the Yellow wire that connects to the relay was getting @ 7v and steadily drops to 0v. I haven't tested at the relay yet to see what kind of reading I'm getting there for voltage if any.
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  #13  
Old 07-29-2011, 11:40 AM
steve4mc steve4mc is offline
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sdunlimited:
Wow. Something is sucking that voltage down. Whether you need a full 12V is something that some people would debate but I would say you definitely need more than 7V.

Based on some other posts on some Kawasaki problems, if you look in the circuit that is feeding 86, you see several switches, one of which is the PTO shut-off switch. We may want to take the power from the point where it enters that switch and jumper straight to the relay and then watch the voltage. Then you can work your way along that circuit to see which element is supposed to be closed but from the sounds of it is acting resistive (circuit is complete but has a voltage drop). Hope that helps.
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  #14  
Old 07-29-2011, 11:53 AM
sdunlimited sdunlimited is offline
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Thanks Steve - I'll get the multimeter on that tomorrow afternoon again and hopefully get this solved. I chatted with somebody this morning about it who also said that rapid voltage drop is a concern and thought it could be as simple as needing a new battery...? Part of me hopes that's not the case since I've been chasing it around for a few days now!
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  #15  
Old 07-29-2011, 02:22 PM
steve4mc steve4mc is offline
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Sometimes when I know that I am dealing with a problem that is electrical, I will put the charger on the battery and do testing with the extra boost of the charger on the battery voltage. That eliminates the battery (and the possibility of a weak one) from the testing I'm doing. It would be interesting to note the battery voltage when you are seeing the voltage drop at 86, to see if the battery voltage is dropping down as well.
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  #16  
Old 07-30-2011, 04:50 PM
sdunlimited sdunlimited is offline
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Solved!

Wow! What a gremlin this one was - and a pain to boot.

I went out fully armed today and determined to solve this thing but it was not anything I expected.

I took the advice of pugs and Steve and started by testing the relay and connections to it. Everything seemed to OK and operating as it should. Funny thing was, my 12v was intermittent at the relay - sometimes I'd get it and others I wouldn't. I first thought it was just due to not solidly connecting my test light or multimeter when probing.

To be sure, I grabbed another start relay from a Scotts mower and tested it/compared it to what I was getting out of the stock Bobcat relay. Everything was same and tested OK.

I went back to my starter/key switch and began probing for 12v so I could trace the transfer of voltage when the key was turned back to the relay. Oddly enough, as I was probing around and NOT getting 12v, the relay would intermittently click when 12v would show up.

Remember from the first post, the prior owner cut out the inline fuses and hard wired them. I probed that connection and got 12v but failed to get it again at the stater/key switch. After stripping that apart and reconnecting, I FINALLY got a solid and consistent 12v all the way through.
That stupid little connection, which looked fine - fully wound wires, heat taped together - was the problem.
I pulled it apart, cleaned things up and re-wired it with the 20amp fuse back inline.

Starts like a champ now.

Thanks for all the replies and help troubleshooting this one. I appreciate you all taking the time.

Kind Regards~
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  #17  
Old 08-02-2011, 04:57 PM
steve4mc steve4mc is offline
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Sdunlimited:
When you see electrical connections that are wound together, I get suspicious that the previous wrencher knew what he was doing. My boss always gets onto me to use an uninsulated butt splice, crimp it, then solder it, then heat shrink it. With all the vibration these machines deal with, it needs to be a great connection. Just crimping sometimes comes back to haunt you.
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  #18  
Old 08-02-2011, 09:06 PM
sdunlimited sdunlimited is offline
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Sounds like good advice Steve - I should go back and do that to these connections since I didn't this time around.

Thanks for taking the time to offer troubleshooting help and tips - I certainly appreciate it!

Have a great evening~
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bobcat mower , problems , troubleshoot , won't start , zt223

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