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  #11  
Old 08-27-2011, 07:33 PM
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greenmonster304 greenmonster304 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIMCO-MEISTER View Post
Don't want to repost it but here is a good troubleshooting flow chart to print out.
http://www.lawnsite.com/showpost.php...1&postcount=12
Well by Jesus that there is the rootin'est tootin'est troubleshootin flow chart I've ever seen by golly.
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  #12  
Old 08-27-2011, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenmonster304 View Post
Well by Jesus that there is the rootin'est tootin'est troubleshootin flow chart I've ever seen by golly.
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there's always this diagram....
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  #13  
Old 08-27-2011, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
there's always this diagram....
Is that a flux capacitor I see?
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  #14  
Old 08-27-2011, 07:49 PM
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I include that diagram with every controller I install
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  #15  
Old 08-27-2011, 08:06 PM
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mitchgo mitchgo is offline
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The common isn't 'bleeding back' like you think it is

you really need to ohm out your valves from the controller

What is it like 75% of electrical diagnosing is done from the controller. At least it tells you what needs to be done next
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  #16  
Old 08-27-2011, 10:58 PM
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FIMCO-MEISTER FIMCO-MEISTER is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
there's always this diagram....
It skipped the blinker fluid cap is loose.
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  #17  
Old 08-28-2011, 11:00 AM
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1idejim 1idejim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthmgtsolutions View Post
I walked into a problem. A Hunter ICC clock with 32 zones. Zones 1,2,3,4,5,7,8,9,11,13,14 do not come on with the clock. When I put a multi-meter on the clock, there are multiple stations with showing power. Oddly enough, the zones that work, 6,10,12,15,16... do not have power. (as they should not) There are multiple common wires, 5, coming into the central wiring box. As I tested, one of the common wires had 25.7 volts coming through it. I realized this is why the zones on the clock were reading power. I am thinking I have a solenoid that has gone bad letting power through. Also, I have 3 Valve boxes under water. I pumped them out and pulled the wires up to dry. They appeared fine but...
So the question is...How would it be possible for multiple zones to want to fire, ie. the hot common?? Would one bad solenoid do that?? Would the problem only occur when the zone with the bad solenoid fires?? Apparently not!! How can I locate which solenoid is bad without checking all 11 that are not working?? My brain hurts!!
you really haven't given enough of the right information to allow anyone to help you, voltage measurements aren't enough. as mentioned, you need to isolate and "pair" each common wire with the valve wires that they service. while you are doing that, document the resistance measurements for each zone. the probability of zones 1-2-3-4-5-7-7-8-9-11-13-14 being on the same common is high but not absolute until verified.

you need to do some more work before anyone here can be of help

Quote:
Originally Posted by earthmgtsolutions View Post
Thanks for the info guys but no one has touched on why the common wire has power coming through it?????
you still haven't supplied enough information


Quote:
Originally Posted by earthmgtsolutions View Post
when i put my amp meter on one of the commons from the field, it is showing 27 volts, the other commons have no power, as expected. Not sure why the bleed back on the common
??????????????


you seem to be locked onto a bad solenoid train of thought "How can I locate which solenoid is bad without checking all 11 that are not working??" so you already have eliminated other paths and tunneled your vision. no wonder your noggin hurts.

start fresh, bring all of the measurements of the wiring and solenoids to the table, check your voltages in parallel and "under load" for accuracy, current is measured in amps or milliamps and in series. resistance is measured in ohms and megohms for the best results. try a short to earth test of each zone wire and their common for insulation from the earth.

in order to receive any help here you are going to have to do your homework.

BTW: i have found that you can tell if you have a bad splice in a water filled box by simply turning the zone on and sticking your hand in the water
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  #18  
Old 08-28-2011, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 1idejim View Post
............BTW: i have found that you can tell if you have a bad splice in a water filled box by simply turning the zone on and sticking your hand in the water
or stand by the water-filled box in your bare feet and take a wizz into the box
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  #19  
Old 08-28-2011, 06:42 PM
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Mike Leary Mike Leary is offline
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I'm missing something, as per me. Has the OP proved the clock yet?
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  #20  
Old 08-29-2011, 08:28 AM
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1idejim 1idejim is offline
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Originally Posted by Mike Leary View Post
I'm missing something, as per me. Has the OP proved the clock yet?
i don't think the op is a shooter, when he gets to 10 posts he can pm me for a guide to his troubleshooting issues though. i spent an hour typing up some suggestions last evening.
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