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  #21  
Old 08-22-2011, 06:25 PM
OrganicsMaine OrganicsMaine is offline
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When the hell did I post that???? Actually I remember posting it, but not where or why. So, again, to reiterate my position on the organics vs. synthetics argument: I am firmly in the organics corner. I have taken it upon myself to make it an easy decision for customers in my area to want to go organic. If I can overcome their objections and worries with my organic programs, then selling against the other guys will be a piece of cake. I don't fault people for wanting that beautiful lawn, heck, I want it too. So with that in mind, I have set about to create those lawns with an organic approach. If that means synthetics with my organics, then so be it. In doing this, I have already cut out a lot of the problems, and ultimately, I will remove all of the synthetics. One step at a time guys. Lets perfect our programs, and make them scaleable, and then we can conquer the world!!!
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  #22  
Old 08-23-2011, 01:10 PM
Tim Wilson Tim Wilson is offline
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Thank you HayBay for straightening that out. I have no trouble with those statements. I am a firm believer in pulling/scorching the weeds one does not want and employing methods to outgrow them with other plants. I do like clover. I think it would be productive if people grew mushrooms in their lawns, as this promotes nutrient exchange and soil O2. Of course it would make sense to seed edible varieties.

I'm pretty sure the reason people purchase the microbulator is because it is comparitively inexpensive and it does extract and multiply compost microorganisms efficiently. It is probably the best available for this. How many other compost tea manufacturers are able to post video footage of the microbes extracted and multiplied at specific time ranges?

One reason for this efficiency is the use of an air lift which can increase the dissolved oxygen capacity of a pump ten fold.

I am sorry that you are so bitter about herbicides.
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  #23  
Old 08-24-2011, 08:18 AM
ICT Bill ICT Bill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnmtn View Post
wouldn't 1 1/2 yards be a little much for 1000 gals? in my 300 gal hydroseeder i couldn't imagine using more than 150# of screened compost.
I have seen them load 1 yard in a 750 gallon hydro seeder many times for stream restoration, they blow it on the sides of the river bank

for a hydro seed application you are probably right the slurry would be a bit thick
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  #24  
Old 09-08-2011, 12:54 AM
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DUSTYCEDAR DUSTYCEDAR is offline
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300 gal jet machine 50 to 75 lbs of compost max any more get the shovel out
i have also shot buff stuf out of the jet with good success
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  #25  
Old 09-08-2011, 10:16 PM
Snapper12 Snapper12 is offline
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Along the same lines... has anybody used a bark blower for top dressing with compost?
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  #26  
Old 09-09-2011, 11:39 AM
ICT Bill ICT Bill is offline
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Originally Posted by Snapper12 View Post
Along the same lines... has anybody used a bark blower for top dressing with compost?
My buddy John Engwar over at groundscapes express does it all of the time
http://groundscapesexpress.com/
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  #27  
Old 09-10-2011, 02:41 AM
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Exact Rototilling Exact Rototilling is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ICT Bill View Post
1000 gallons will typically cover 10,000 sq ft but that is for hydroseeding, you will get much more coverage than that as a turf application
Save your money on foods, the compost has plenty of microbe food in it, they want organic matter

if you add foods you will get a bloom of microbes that will rob nutrients from the turf until the bloom ends and they are released

a couple of folks have "brewed" our tea, it becomes so microbial that it actually turns the turf white until they all die off and the nutrients are released, then it is the greenest green you have ever seen (i should be a poet) but it is a bit of a scare until it does
Any pics of what this whitish lawn looks like...?

I'm currently experimenting with molasses on my lawn that has 3/4 of thatch. It was that way when I moved here last October along with fairy ring. Fairy ring is a darker green currently. Temps are still high upper 80's 90's so I haven't put down any fert since May.

Neighbor was actually in charge of the lawn at this house prior to my move here October of 2010 and he told me I'm over watering since I have mushrooms....?

His logic is less water = less mushrooms.

Is this not right up there with wet sidewalks cause rain....
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  #28  
Old 09-10-2011, 08:26 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Depending on the kind of mushroom 'too much' is hard to judge... while it is true that mushrooms don't usually pop up in dry conditions, they can still pop up in moderate conditions...

the best way to solve the water issue is to open up the soil or pull a plug after irrigation and see where the water is... Just as a rule of thumb in cooler weather, it is best to let the surface dry thoroughly for several days b4 watering again...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #29  
Old 09-10-2011, 01:30 PM
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Exact Rototilling Exact Rototilling is online now
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Yes ...I only cycle sprinklers 2 times a week of that...grass is mowed at 3.5"...then I run one of.the old Nelson lawn tractors for complete watering once a week for complete deep watering. Still in the 80's and 90's here....

Mushrooms are feed by breakdown of OM correct?
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  #30  
Old 09-11-2011, 09:22 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Originally Posted by Exact Rototilling View Post
Yes ...I only cycle sprinklers 2 times a week of that...grass is mowed at 3.5"...then I run one of.the old Nelson lawn tractors for complete watering once a week for complete deep watering. Still in the 80's and 90's here....

Mushrooms are feed by breakdown of OM correct?
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Yes, they do consume OM to its final destination. all of you irrigation should be 'deep watering'... the question is: when it the water so deep it is wasted from that point on...

.25" of water on sand every other day may be a deep watering because it soaks up the top foot of ground in a matter of minutes.

In heavier soils .5" may still be a shallow watering because it percolates so slowly that it may have t be spread over a 2 day period giving it a chance to soak in... a big problem with puddled surfaces is that all the water is put down at once and most of it evaporates, while the root zone is lacking... that is why looking into the soil depth is valuable, i making a judgement...

3 times a week is generally a lot...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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