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  #41  
Old 09-30-2011, 09:38 AM
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boisephc boisephc is offline
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two types of liquid brand names :
CoRoN (helena)
or
Link (wilbur ellis)
both of these have mixes with S and Fe :

- in my experience,
if your applying 4lbs of nitrogen a year, and your fertilizing in november and again in june, you can combo the liquid fert w/ your spring insect preventive or per-emergent. i think this helps with a good color boost before your June lawn food (granular).
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  #42  
Old 10-14-2011, 02:16 PM
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Six weeks later:

These pictures are of the same ballfield six weeks later. Foliar applied fertilizer GMS 10-20-10.
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  #43  
Old 10-14-2011, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by olcllc View Post
These pictures are of the same ballfield six weeks later. Foliar applied fertilizer GMS 10-20-10.
Those look nice. I haven't tried it yet. I didn't because the bermuda was extremely stressed until a couple of weeks ago and is slowing down greatly. We'll have a frost in 3-4 weeks and that'll be it. I think I will mix up a small batch in a backpack using a fine T-jet tip and flag out 1k in my own lawn and spray it at the 2 gal/acre rate just to see what kind of response I get over the next 4 wks or so. I'm home with my 7 yr old who has strep today(I'm getting tired of Barbies) and that would be a nice project. I'll be sure to correct the water hardness with vinegar
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  #44  
Old 10-14-2011, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ted putnam View Post
Those look nice. I haven't tried it yet. I didn't because the bermuda was extremely stressed until a couple of weeks ago and is slowing down greatly. We'll have a frost in 3-4 weeks and that'll be it. I think I will mix up a small batch in a backpack using a fine T-jet tip and flag out 1k in my own lawn and spray it at the 2 gal/acre rate just to see what kind of response I get over the next 4 wks or so. I'm home with my 7 yr old who has strep today(I'm getting tired of Barbies) and that would be a nice project. I'll be sure to correct the water hardness with vinegar
What's wrong with barbies? You know you'd rather be there than out busting your butt all day.

We've already had frost... the leaves will be down by Halloween... and we're suppose to have two nights below freezing this coming week. I'll be finished by the first week of November this year... nearly a month early.
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  #45  
Old 10-15-2011, 03:14 PM
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Today I thoroughly cleaned an Echo MS-50 Backpack sprayer with a T-jet 8003 tip on the wand. I then proceeded with a jar test for water compatibility with the GMS product. The recommended rate for turf is 2 gal/acre(5.87oz/k). I added .75oz to 16oz of water in a jar and the mixture remained clearso I didn't need to add vinegar to correct for water hardness. I poured this into the backpack, added 2.25oz more of GMS and added 48oz more water to the mix. I measured 500 sq ft to spray using the 3oz product called for. It worked out perfect. I blanket apped this area and ran out of mix as I reached the end of the area. 1/2 gal finished mix/ 500ft sq. Prior to spraying I mowed this area at a 3 inch height. I took pictures of this area and will take pictures again for comparison. I am interested to see how this product works on warm season turf, especially turf that is headed into dormancy soon.
Thanks for all your help
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  #46  
Old 11-01-2011, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
Yes, that is priced at up to $50 per 50 lb bag. Think of this in these terms: What other fertilizer you have used that covers at least an acre per bag? For me, liquid fertilizers are a way to give premium results at a reasonable price. The nearest equivalent to what I apply to a lawn would be a greens grade fertilizer made with MESA, potassium sulfate not potassium chloride, no urea, and a complete chelated micronutrient package. Have not found a granule even coming close to those specifications for less than $300 per acre. I can formulate a liquid for no more than $200 per acre where the color lasts for more than 30 days.
I have been looking into the different products similiar to what you are using but still having a hard time finding a reasonably priced source of potassium. What do you think of this product http://drexchem.com/tabid/86/Default...roductID=10139.
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  #47  
Old 11-02-2011, 04:51 AM
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Depends on how much this costs per lb of K. I also need to consider the source of K as well. This is liquid potassium hydroxide. My concern is with how well this would tank mix with other products such as micronutrients. Overall, greenhouse grade crystalline potassium nitrate is the better product. I have a hard time finding something that has all of the positive attributes for better money. I am normally getting. Another thing to look into is KTS or potassium thiosulfate. That is normally available in 275 gallon cubes. However, it too is very alkaline, risky to spray on at low volumes and not irrigate in immediately.
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  #48  
Old 11-02-2011, 09:00 AM
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..

I missed seeing this thread until today.

I am going to take it back to basics for a second or two. The type of soil and It's Chemical holding power should have a bearing on your selection of a Fertilizing program. Slow release liquid Fert is no good on sandy soil. It runs through before it can used and only pollutes the water table. Clay Soil it has a better chance of being used if it doesn't run off.

I am not going to bring out the SOIL SAMPLE Flag because I haven't pulled a soil sample in Years. But I know what my soil is and has or doesn't have that I need to add. I am sure my Fert program wouldn't work in other areas as good as it does in my area.
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  #49  
Old 11-02-2011, 12:55 PM
ArTurf ArTurf is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric View Post
..

I missed seeing this thread until today.

I am going to take it back to basics for a second or two. The type of soil and It's Chemical holding power should have a bearing on your selection of a Fertilizing program. Slow release liquid Fert is no good on sandy soil. It runs through before it can used and only pollutes the water table. Clay Soil it has a better chance of being used if it doesn't run off.

I am not going to bring out the SOIL SAMPLE Flag because I haven't pulled a soil sample in Years. But I know what my soil is and has or doesn't have that I need to add. I am sure my Fert program wouldn't work in other areas as good as it does in my area.
My soils vary greatly from sandy to clay/rock. I have been on a granular only program due to limited time and have had good success with choosing higher quality products. I am considering a liquid or hybrid program for customers who desire the ultimate and are willing to pay. Almost all of my soils are acidic and suggest a N to K equal ratio except for bermuda naturally needs more N. What general guidelines can you give?

On another subject what do you do differently fert/herb wise to grass that grows in heavy shade?
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  #50  
Old 11-02-2011, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArTurf View Post
My soils vary greatly from sandy to clay/rock. I have been on a granular only program due to limited time and have had good success with choosing higher quality products. I am considering a liquid or hybrid program for customers who desire the ultimate and are willing to pay. Almost all of my soils are acidic and suggest a N to K equal ratio except for bermuda naturally needs more N. What general guidelines can you give?

On another subject what do you do differently fert/herb wise to grass that grows in heavy shade?
Ar

I am a believer in Bridge programs using Organic, Synthetic Liquid & Granules. IMHO no one medium offers a total program. I do lean towards a Liquid program where I mix my own blend. I spend more money on minors than primary elements. What I use works for me. That doesn't mean it would work in other areas.
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