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  #41  
Old 11-09-2011, 08:02 PM
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Piston, i want a grenade launcher too
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:06 PM
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The Ruger SR556 is a great value for a piston driven AR-15. Check it out for the money its a well rounded AR.
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:54 PM
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Piston, i want a grenade launcher too
LOL.

Reading this thread really makes me want to shoot something. Luckly gun deer hunting is coming up soon here in WI.
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Old 11-09-2011, 11:12 PM
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And a add to what lyube said about his 16 and a AAV (OoRah). My brand new, out of the box, M4 sits behind me (between the seat and fuel tank wont fit in the rack) in the Dozer and gets covered in "moon dust". Its a pain to clean after but it'll still racks a round, fires, and cycles. My first and only tour to Iraq with the Infantry, my old M16A2 took a round to the shell deflector and still fired all day.
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  #45  
Old 11-10-2011, 09:48 PM
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Piston, i want a grenade launcher too
Go with di..pistons are more complex for little to no gain in reliability. Each manufacturer has their own piston setup meaning more complexities when getting spare parts. Di is everywhere. However, if you're going to go piston spend the money and buy a nice one..lewis machine and tool mrp, hk mr556, and lwrc are all excellent platforms.
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  #46  
Old 11-10-2011, 09:52 PM
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What you think about the one i posted?
Avoid the carbon 15..they break easily, are made of substandard parts, and are really only suitable for being used as a lesson on why you don't buy carbon fiber ar15s. For 200$ more you could get a spikes tactical which is a very good quality rifle.
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Old 11-10-2011, 09:55 PM
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And a add to what lyube said about his 16 and a AAV (OoRah). My brand new, out of the box, M4 sits behind me (between the seat and fuel tank wont fit in the rack) in the Dozer and gets covered in "moon dust". Its a pain to clean after but it'll still racks a round, fires, and cycles. My first and only tour to Iraq with the Infantry, my old M16A2 took a round to the shell deflector and still fired all day.
What are you doing that makes it a pain? Just wipe it down with a rag, spray it with clp (grease is better), hit the bore with a brush, reassemble.
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:25 AM
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What are you doing that makes it a pain? Just wipe it down with a rag, spray it with clp (grease is better), hit the bore with a brush, reassemble.
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Star chamber, under the rail system, in the lower reciever (under the sear). Back blading with a dozer can kick up a ton dust, doesn't help they are all open cabs either. Armorer wants white glove everytime. I should rephase what I said earlier, its a pain when your only issued half of a cleaning kit. And it didn't help that my M4 was still soaking with the factory grease/oil when it came out with me to Irwin, and I didn't have the a chance to wipe it down, it was "Schmitz jump on that dozer"

Edit: there is a picture of the dozer in my picture thread below
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  #49  
Old 11-11-2011, 09:11 AM
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Star chamber, under the rail system, in the lower reciever (under the sear). Back blading with a dozer can kick up a ton dust, doesn't help they are all open cabs either. Armorer wants white glove everytime. I should rephase what I said earlier, its a pain when your only issued half of a cleaning kit. And it didn't help that my M4 was still soaking with the factory grease/oil when it came out with me to Irwin, and I didn't have the a chance to wipe it down, it was "Schmitz jump on that dozer"

Edit: there is a picture of the dozer in my picture thread below
Ehh yeah for armory turn in sure. For basic maintenance? Heck no. If you ever need anything email me and I'll see what I can do. All you need to keep the m4 running is lube..it will run dirty just fine. Tooth brush, barrel rod, brush, chamber brush, eyelet. Everything else is optional.
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:19 PM
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I like bushmaster what's the difference between them?
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