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#1
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newbie looking for some help on a fert schedule?
a customer of mine recently quit her fertilizer/ herbicide program with a local business, and asked me to take over. the yard needs reseeded in several spots.
my question is im planning on overseeding and putting some good starter fert down. what should be my next step? i mainly mow and do very little work like this but would like to add this as a service to my customers? |
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#2
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Study up and get your license.
What kind of grass? Blue? Fescue? Bermuda? Do you have any seeding equipment? How did you plan to establish seed to soil contact? |
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#3
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its mainly fescue, yes i have the equipment, i was planning on aerating the areas that will be seeded.
what kind of follow up application is needed? weeds will be a problem since they've been suppressed several years with the herbicide apps? |
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#4
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be careful with your pre-emergent and seed, those two don't seem to get along with each other...
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#5
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Quote:
and then you will know what the lawn will need State catch you there be a fine
__________________
Snyder's New Lawn Service Inc. Since 1981 |
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#6
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Quote:
If you're not going to nhave your license before it's pre-m time, then you might want to dispense with the aerating and use compost to cover the seed in bare spots, instead... You can't go wrong with compost over seed and you won't be bringing 'new' dirt with 'new' seeds to the surface for germination... Be sure to let the client know that you aren't legally allowed to use pre-m and let her know that she may not even need it... We never pre-m turf, so don't worry too much about it... What kind of lawn is it? shady/full sun? sandy/clay? irrigated/not irr.??
__________________
* Well reasoned rational thought is the ONLY way to prove or disprove anything, rather than the foolish insults of those incapable of putting together the thought processes necessary to accomplish conclusions... * |
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#7
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Do this in fall if possible. When soil temp is above 75. Slit seeder is better. Aeration machine is not really designed to prepare a seed bed. I suggest seed first then double aerate to get most of the soil on top of the seed. I suggest sow double the usual amount of seed to be sure some it "takes". And don't use the cheap seed. Use a high-quality brown patch-resistant seed like Falcon 4, and add about 10 percent bluegrass to promote better self-repair. Expect slow germination due to low soil temperatures. If the customer wants to do it cheaper, let him sign off on use of less expensive ingredients. Naturally do not guarantee anything.
Naturally, you should be aware that crabgrass control would block the germination of any new seed. If you can find someone who is licensed, he could possibly apply crabgrass control after the new grass was up--after two mowings. Its a gamble because it would be rather late for crabgrass control let us know what happens. |
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