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  #11  
Old 05-21-2012, 01:10 PM
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jvanvliet jvanvliet is offline
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What kind of fruit trees? How many inches of diameter and how many feet of trunk? What's the dripline and what type of soil?

Your local extension can help you with the watering requirements or you can click here

When you say 3' well, you mean dam? Id say you can use a bubbler, if the soil reaches it's saturation point, the dam will fill up and allow the water to perculate evenly to the root zone.
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Last edited by jvanvliet; 05-21-2012 at 01:20 PM.
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  #12  
Old 05-21-2012, 01:43 PM
Mikegyver Mikegyver is offline
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I have no problem with bubblers, as long as the application is even. I've seen way too many bubbler applications where one side of the plant was saturated and the other was dry as a bone.
I am doing 2 per tree.

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If you can have the heads right near the trees, then why not standard bubblers on risers?
I'd rather have them below ground to keep them from being an eyesore. Either way is fine I guess.

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Originally Posted by jvanvliet View Post
What kind of fruit trees? How many inches of diameter and how many feet of trunk? What's the dripline and what type of soil?

Your local extension can help you with the watering requirements or you can click here

When you say 3' well, you mean dam? Id say you can use a bubbler, if the soil reaches it's saturation point, the dam will fill up and allow the water to perculate evenly to the root zone.
Apple, plum, pear, peach, perssimon, etc. They are anywhere from 1/2"-2" in diameter. Dripline is about the same as the dam around the tree but varies due to different ages of tree. We are mulching around each tree post irrigation installation so that the mulch can retain the water long after the system has stopped running.
Mike
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  #13  
Old 05-21-2012, 01:46 PM
Mikegyver Mikegyver is offline
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Looked at the tech sheet for the 1300. Looks like that was a misprint on that page...the lowest it goes it .25 gpm which is what I have on order anyways.
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  #14  
Old 05-21-2012, 01:54 PM
Mikegyver Mikegyver is offline
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I am thinking of running each tree zone for 25 minutes once a week. Does this sound right??? I do not want to over water and therefore kill the trees.
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  #15  
Old 05-21-2012, 01:55 PM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is offline
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If you did go to the trouble of rolling your own with the PCS screens, you would have the ability of changing some or all of the restrictors as conditions change.
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  #16  
Old 05-21-2012, 01:59 PM
Mikegyver Mikegyver is offline
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True. At this point I'm already at 650.00 plus trencher rental so I may or may not do it just yet.
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  #17  
Old 05-21-2012, 02:01 PM
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Mike Leary Mike Leary is offline
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Originally Posted by MCC LAWN CARE View Post
I am thinking of running each tree zone for 25 minutes once a week. Does this sound right??? I do not want to over water and therefore kill the trees.
It all depends on the soil conditions and the amount of evaporation. You've got to measure the penetration and know the demand of the material. Application specs help, somewhat, but field measurement is the only way to know.
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  #18  
Old 05-21-2012, 02:05 PM
irrig8r irrig8r is offline
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Quote:
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I am thinking of running each tree zone for 25 minutes once a week. Does this sound right??? I do not want to over water and therefore kill the trees.
Sounds like a lot of water to me.

If the orchard is new, then the roots won't be deep and maybe once a week is good.

When the trees are more mature and bearing fruit, sounds like too often.

Talk to an ag extension agent if your county or state has one. They can point you in the right direction.
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  #19  
Old 05-21-2012, 02:13 PM
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Mike Leary Mike Leary is offline
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Originally Posted by irrig8r View Post
If the orchard is new, then the roots won't be deep and maybe once a week is good.
Buy the probe.
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  #20  
Old 05-21-2012, 02:16 PM
Mikegyver Mikegyver is offline
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Originally Posted by Mike Leary View Post
Buy the probe.
I have one..system needs to be in first!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by irrig8r View Post
Sounds like a lot of water to me.

If the orchard is new, then the roots won't be deep and maybe once a week is good.

When the trees are more mature and bearing fruit, sounds like too often.

Talk to an ag extension agent if your county or state has one. They can point you in the right direction.
Its only 5 gallons per tree if it runs 20 minutes (.25X20=5).
Some of the trees are at bearing age. Some are just planted this year because we added a row and filled in the holes where we lost trees to the drought. I will talk to the ag agent but unfortunately do not think they will be much help. But its worth a try.
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