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  #11  
Old 06-22-2012, 09:14 PM
Mark Oomkes Mark Oomkes is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsslawncare View Post
I know you didn't ask, but the oil pan is not the issue. Oil pan, gasket, spacer, gasket, then the block. Too many possible area's to leak. And since the cab is coming off then it does have a 6.0l in it. (junk)
Ummm, there's a couple comments here that show you are completely clueless about Fords.

1) There is no gasket for the oil pan. Only a tube of sealant, as in something along the lines of RTV or Form-a-gasket.

2) You most certainly do have to pull the cab to do this job properly. I have had it done both ways and will stick with the engine pulling via a cab lift method from now on. The other involves cutting the engine cradle, dropping the pan, attempting to get good coverage with the aforementioned sealant, installing the new pan, welding the cradle back in place.

Now, if you would like to further debate this, I can get the pictures of my '99 7.3 that just had this done a few weeks back. Or scan the invoice for it. I have 4 7.3s and 3 6.0s, so I do know what I am talking about.

So, to the OP, I would recommend not listening to anything jss has to say about truck maintenance.
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  #12  
Old 06-22-2012, 09:32 PM
GQLL GQLL is online now
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Oh trust me i know what it takes it not the 6.0 it a 7.3 cause 6.0 wasnt in ford untill 2003. The tuck has 4x4 so it even tighter to work on it. The shop that dose the work is a heavy duty truck shop. They do fast and good work so i pay a top dollar. I cant have a truck sit in the shop for a month. The last time. The oil pan was done it was 2 days from drop off to pick up. I been thinking of keeping the truck sence it is paid for and use it as a back up and get a new truck for the mowing route. Which woukd be a 2013 f350 with a insert. I think this is going to be my best option at this time
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  #13  
Old 06-22-2012, 09:32 PM
Mark Oomkes Mark Oomkes is online now
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Forgot:

3) 6.0s were not used until '03.5. So if the OP has an '02, there is no doubt it's a 7.3.

4) If you haven't heard of the crappy steel that IH used for oil pans in the 7.3s, then you know absolutely JACK SQUAT about these trucks.

OP Too bad, sounds like you got a lemon. Sorry to hear it, I love every one of my 7.3s.

Last edited by Mark Oomkes; 06-22-2012 at 09:38 PM.
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  #14  
Old 06-22-2012, 09:34 PM
GQLL GQLL is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Oomkes View Post
Forgot:

3) 6.0s were not used until '03.5. So if the OP has an '02, there is no doubt it's a 7.3.

OP Too bad, sounds like you got a lemon. Sorry to hear it, I love every one of my 7.3s.
I bought a fleet vehical that was my problem. Im hoping that after this repair that it will be trouble fee for a whil
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  #15  
Old 06-22-2012, 09:40 PM
Mark Oomkes Mark Oomkes is online now
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Originally Posted by GQLL View Post
I bought a fleet vehical that was my problem. Im hoping that after this repair that it will be trouble fee for a whil
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I was fortunate, I bought a '99 last fall that had 62K on it. The muni who owned it before the guy I bought it from had put a new tranny and rear end in it. It needed a little work, but I love that truck, wish it had 4WD, but not too big a deal.
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  #16  
Old 06-23-2012, 11:13 PM
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jsslawncare jsslawncare is offline
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Mark-O
Some thoughts about your know-it-all info UMMMMMMM,
1. Tube of sealant, RTV and Form a Gasket. That is the gasket. Gasket material can be paper or silicon based.
2. I never said you don't have to pull the cab, I know you do as I have seen more then my fair share with the cab's sitting on a 2 post lift with the chassis on the ground.
3. So I was off a year and half, big deal. I bet you had to google it.
4. Now to the real issue. The bed plate is warped, main girdle or what ever you want to call it. Which causes the oil leak. In the beginning the local Ford dealership would send it to me to be checked out. I would send it back with a letter to be sent back to Ford saying that the plate was out of tolerance. You can't machine them because it is the main cap. It's not possible to machine this style of main cap. It was just a bad design. Honda, BMW or the other's didn't have this problem, just IH. Ford had their easy fix (cheap for them). But the dealership just wanted to replace it with a new engine and move on. That's were my letter come into play.

Now- It offends me for you to say that I'm clueless about the auto industry. I had rather you say that I'm clueless about being a grass cutter (which I do have a degree in turf grass management from UGA)
1. I'm an ASE Parts Specialist
2. ASE Machinist for auto/light light and heavy duty. Light truck is your 3/4, 1 ton trucks. Heavy duty is Mack, Big Cam cummins and such.
I went to work for a machine shop in 1991-2007. 1997-2007 I managed it. I started a grass cutting service to provide money for drag racing and my stepdad took over not long after I started it in about 1993-94. 2007 he decided to retire and I was ready for a career change- so here I am. I'm a die hard Ford man that drive's a Dodge because the big Hemi had 45 hp more then the new 3 valve Ford motor in 2005 when I bought my 2500 new to pull my camper. If "I" were running the 6.0l when it come to the first time for pulling the cab I would have changed it over to 6bt Cummins with an Allison automatic. Then put 1/2 million miles on the truck. Check out www.fordcummins.com for more info. So Mark O, watch it when you get into a pissing contest but, I know your fire hose is bigger since you have 7 Powerjokes. You seem to be the know it all that has paid someone to fix it and I'm the know it all that has fixed it. At least we're not talking about the Isuzu junk in the GM's.
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  #17  
Old 06-24-2012, 01:33 AM
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PlantscapeSolutions PlantscapeSolutions is online now
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I had a 97' F250 once with a 7.3 and it was an OK motor. A lot of Ford guys cherish that motor like it was the best thing since sliced bread. The block, rods, pistons, and overall engine was built to average standards at best. Some had the powdered metal rods that tended to snap at 200K.

The 12 or 24 valve 5.9 made at the same time was seriously over built. You could increase the OEM horsepower from 235/245 all the way to 1000 and all the stock internals could handle the stress just fine. The blocks will hold up to 150 pounds of boost.

I think Fords new in house 6.7 will likely displace the 7.3 as the best engine ever put in a Ford light duty work truck. But it may still never replace the Cummins 6.7 in the medium duty F650 & F750.

The new 2001 Duramax was better then the 7.3 for internal strength. It was the injectors issues that held back the first gen Dmax.
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  #18  
Old 06-25-2012, 06:32 AM
Mark Oomkes Mark Oomkes is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsslawncare View Post
Mark-O
Some thoughts about your know-it-all info UMMMMMMM,
1. Tube of sealant, RTV and Form a Gasket. That is the gasket. Gasket material can be paper or silicon based.
2. I never said you don't have to pull the cab, I know you do as I have seen more then my fair share with the cab's sitting on a 2 post lift with the chassis on the ground.
3. So I was off a year and half, big deal. I bet you had to google it.
4. Now to the real issue. The bed plate is warped, main girdle or what ever you want to call it. Which causes the oil leak. In the beginning the local Ford dealership would send it to me to be checked out. I would send it back with a letter to be sent back to Ford saying that the plate was out of tolerance. You can't machine them because it is the main cap. It's not possible to machine this style of main cap. It was just a bad design. Honda, BMW or the other's didn't have this problem, just IH. Ford had their easy fix (cheap for them). But the dealership just wanted to replace it with a new engine and move on. That's were my letter come into play.

Now- It offends me for you to say that I'm clueless about the auto industry. I had rather you say that I'm clueless about being a grass cutter (which I do have a degree in turf grass management from UGA)
1. I'm an ASE Parts Specialist
2. ASE Machinist for auto/light light and heavy duty. Light truck is your 3/4, 1 ton trucks. Heavy duty is Mack, Big Cam cummins and such.
I went to work for a machine shop in 1991-2007. 1997-2007 I managed it. I started a grass cutting service to provide money for drag racing and my stepdad took over not long after I started it in about 1993-94. 2007 he decided to retire and I was ready for a career change- so here I am. I'm a die hard Ford man that drive's a Dodge because the big Hemi had 45 hp more then the new 3 valve Ford motor in 2005 when I bought my 2500 new to pull my camper. If "I" were running the 6.0l when it come to the first time for pulling the cab I would have changed it over to 6bt Cummins with an Allison automatic. Then put 1/2 million miles on the truck. Check out www.fordcummins.com for more info. So Mark O, watch it when you get into a pissing contest but, I know your fire hose is bigger since you have 7 Powerjokes. You seem to be the know it all that has paid someone to fix it and I'm the know it all that has fixed it. At least we're not talking about the Isuzu junk in the GM's.
Where to start. You think I had to Google the info on which engine is in which MY, but then you say I have 7 Powerjokes. If I have 7, don't you think I have the slightest clue of what I am talking about?

Hmmm, golly gee Beav, I can put that Cummins in my back yard into my SD? Which will be happening in a couple weeks? Minus the Allison, because after the Torqshift disaster at the beginning, they have actually been a strong transmission.

ASE Parts specialist and machinist? What does that mean? Seriously, check out Google, the reason 7.3's leak is because IH used crappy steel for oil pans, they rust and start leaking. Nothing to do with anything warping. This is a well known problem that requires ZERO machining and generally the only parts needed are a new oil pan and a tube of gasket maker from Ford. And if the ASE MECHANIC doesn't get it clean and keep it clean, the RTV\whatever will start to leak again.

Please, use GOOGLE, this is a well known fact. Oil pans rust out. Nothing is warped. Nothing needs machining. Replace the oil pan AFTER pulling the cab. Because in order to get the RTV\whatever to seal good, the engine is rotated 180 degrees to keep the oil from seeping onto the "girdle" as you call it. Even the 6.0s are starting to show some problems with rusting out. I've had 1 done so far.

Regarding the gasket, you used the following words: Oil pan, gasket, spacer, gasket If you truly knew the parts involved, you would know (as I stated already) that this statement is wrong. There is an oil pan and the tube of gasket maker\RTV needed. That is it. There is no oil pan, gasket, spacer, gasket. Check your ASE books. Or Google.

THe last thing: And since the cab is coming off then it does have a 6.0l in it. You are correct, you did not specifically state that the 7.3s do not need the cab pulled, but you did strongly imply that because the OP did have the cab pulled it must be a 6.0 and not a 7.3 despite the MY the OP gave. So, because words mean things to me, following this line of reasoning, you don't believe the OP when he says he has a 7.3 strictly because he had to add the cab.

My implication that you are clueless regarding trucks comes from the statements you have made:
1) Oil leaks on 7.3s are from warped something or others which is not the case because everyone knows these oil pans are crap and rust out.
2) Insisting the OP must have a different engine because the cab had to be lifted even though he owns the truck and has spent good money keeping it on the road and he knows when Ford started using the 6.0s which you did not.
3) Not knowing what is involved in the oil pan replacement (of course this may be a result of you not understanding that the oil pan is the cause of the leak which has already been addressed)

Have a lovely day.
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