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  #171  
Old 07-07-2012, 01:55 PM
Dylan's Lawn Care Dylan's Lawn Care is offline
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What are you guys paying for the new 460? I have a opportunity to get a demo 460 with 29hp efi for 8,900 maybe less because that is what they are asking.

I was going to get a scag this fall but i can get this and the bagger for the price of a scag. Thanks
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  #172  
Old 07-07-2012, 01:56 PM
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ProStreetCamaro ProStreetCamaro is online now
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You would be foolish not to jump on that deal. The list on it is 12000
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  #173  
Old 07-07-2012, 02:32 PM
Dylan's Lawn Care Dylan's Lawn Care is offline
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Originally Posted by ProStreetCamaro View Post
You would be foolish not to jump on that deal. The list on it is 12000
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I just called them and he said it has 23hr on it and it is his last unit that they have. I put a $100 down over the phone so he would hold it till Monday afternoon.

Do you have any experience with the bagger?
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  #174  
Old 07-07-2012, 03:14 PM
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ProStreetCamaro ProStreetCamaro is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylan's Lawn Care View Post
I just called them and he said it has 23hr on it and it is his last unit that they have. I put a $100 down over the phone so he would hold it till Monday afternoon.

Do you have any experience with the bagger?

I don't but gmlc has the bag for his.
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  #175  
Old 07-08-2012, 12:55 PM
Dylan's Lawn Care Dylan's Lawn Care is offline
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Do you have experience with the mulch kit?

How is it preforming in northern grass?
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  #176  
Old 07-08-2012, 03:51 PM
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mtmower mtmower is offline
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Can anyone elaborate on the process of servicing the ZT5400s.

What did you use for a jack point?

Where are the drain plugs mentioned in the owners manuals?

Any other tips?
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  #177  
Old 07-08-2012, 05:14 PM
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mtmower mtmower is offline
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Did a little more digging and found these.

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=315834

http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/5400_BLN-0014_P2.pdf

Still not sure where the drain plug they talk of is and not finding a good jack point. If I take the cup off my floor jack it will just fit under the frame beneath the pump but only the edge due to the bolt heads that extend down.

Last edited by mtmower; 07-08-2012 at 05:20 PM.
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  #178  
Old 07-08-2012, 07:32 PM
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mtmower mtmower is offline
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Ok. So if you have the optional hitch and have drilled it out to accept a conventional ball shank this makes a good jack point and seems to handle the lift stress with ease keeping things out of the way.

Warm up system, remove your rear wheels, remove the park brake springs (I used a small needle nose vise grips for this), get a large diameter drain pan so it catches the oil leaving the filter housing (and run off from the frame) and also can catch the oil draining from the drain plug at the same time, (the drain plug I deducted is the only bolt (7/16") on the bottom of the pump which is not painted), remove the oil filter cap and allow to drain, loosen resivoir cap to aid in draining, remove bottom drain bolt and allow system to completely drain, remove filter with small hook or wire by pulling straight out, moisten new oil filter seals, replace o-ring on filter cap with supplied, reinstall filter and oil filter cap, reinstall drain plug (I guess using the original o-ring), torque to spec., fill at reservoir with 20w-50 engine oil of choice (Amsoil) without opening optional fill vent, and bleed per manual.

Hope this helps.

On another note. Sticker on pump says assembled in USA. Oil filter cap and filters have stamped made in China stamped on them. Who'd a thought.
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  #179  
Old 07-08-2012, 10:15 PM
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watsmi57 watsmi57 is offline
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you should service the hydros at 75 hours and at every 400 hours thereafter. per the manual. my manual also did not say specifically to use a synthetic. I called Gravely and they said high quality synthetic oil only in the hydros. They wouldn't recommend a specific brand but my dealer said they use mobil 1 in them.
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  #180  
Old 07-09-2012, 12:06 AM
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mtmower mtmower is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtmower View Post
ok. So if you have the optional hitch and have drilled it out to accept a conventional ball shank this makes a good jack point and seems to handle the lift stress with ease keeping things out of the way.

Warm up system, remove your rear wheels, remove the park brake springs (i used a small needle nose vise grips for this), get a large diameter drain pan so it catches the oil leaving the filter housing (and run off from the frame) and also can catch the oil draining from the drain plug at the same time, (the drain plug i deducted is the only bolt (7/16") on the bottom of the pump which is not painted), remove the oil filter cap (1 1/8")and allow to drain, loosen reservoir cap to aid in draining, remove bottom drain bolt and allow system to completely drain, remove filter with small hook or wire by pulling straight out, moisten new oil filter seals, replace o-ring on filter cap with supplied, reinstall filter and oil filter cap, reinstall drain plug (i guess using the original o-ring), torque to spec., fill at reservoir with 20w-50 engine oil of choice (amsoil) opening optional fill vent, and bleed per manual.

Hope this helps.

On another note. Sticker on pump says assembled in usa. Oil filter cap and filters have stamped made in china stamped on them. Who'd a thought.
edit
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