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  #31  
Old 07-09-2012, 11:48 PM
turbosl2 turbosl2 is offline
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Location: Saratoga County, NY
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I guess. I just set it to start at 6pm and it will end about 5.5hrs later. Most zones are going 20-30mins, this includes all zones.
So it will water all zones for (or all but 2) every day at 6pm.
Then it will water the front onces again at 3am on even days and then the back will be on odd days.
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  #32  
Old 07-10-2012, 08:51 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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At some point you should think about ammending the soil or creating stonger deep roots and increasing the water holding capacity...

Do you bag the clippings or mulch mow? Do you cut it short or do you let it shade its roots?
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #33  
Old 07-10-2012, 09:23 AM
maynardGkeynes maynardGkeynes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbosl2 View Post
I guess. I just set it to start at 6pm and it will end about 5.5hrs later. Most zones are going 20-30mins, this includes all zones.
So it will water all zones for (or all but 2) every day at 6pm.
Then it will water the front onces again at 3am on even days and then the back will be on odd days.
Watering that late in the day is going to invite brown patch, dollar spot, and other fungus growth. Starting at 5AM would be better. I also question watering every day. I don't know the details of your property, but there are few scenarios where full daily watering is beneficial, and the downsides are considerable. With sandy soil you have a big margin of error, but there is no reason that I can see to use irrigation practices known to have potentially deleterious effects in terms of disease, soil leaching, runoff, and excessively, shallow root development.

Last edited by maynardGkeynes; 07-10-2012 at 09:29 AM.
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  #34  
Old 07-10-2012, 09:43 AM
Grasssales2001 Grasssales2001 is offline
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Location: Shreveport,LA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbosl2 View Post
I guess. I just set it to start at 6pm and it will end about 5.5hrs later. Most zones are going 20-30mins, this includes all zones.
So it will water all zones for (or all but 2) every day at 6pm.
Then it will water the front onces again at 3am on even days and then the back will be on odd days.
You are not applying enough water per irrigation event to do your grass much good. That is why your grass always looks dry. You said it applied 1/8 - 1/4" in 45 minutes,yet each zone only runs for 30 minutes?
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  #35  
Old 07-10-2012, 10:00 AM
32vld 32vld is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: LI NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbosl2 View Post
I guess. I just set it to start at 6pm and it will end about 5.5hrs later. Most zones are going 20-30mins, this includes all zones.
So it will water all zones for (or all but 2) every day at 6pm.
Then it will water the front onces again at 3am on even days and then the back will be on odd days.
Putting water down in the evening will catch up to you by your lawn getting a disease sooner or later.

On LI I normally water 90 minutes once a week. Lawn shows needs water at 4/5 days when no rain and high temperatures. So I may move up watering a day. Shallow watering keeps the lawn from growing it's roots deeper.

Edit to add, I use the tuna can math forumla.
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  #36  
Old 07-10-2012, 10:13 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbosl2 View Post
I have a tuna can out right now getting a measurement. I will report back in an hr or 2. Its good to hear about not worrying about the disease this time of year. I dont water in the spring very much.
This is the proper way to setup a catch can audit (see pic). If you aren't at least doing it this way you are wasting your time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbosl2 View Post
I got about a 1/4" on areas where i get good coverage and overlap, and i get about 1/8" where the nozzle doesnt cover very well. It seems to drop more water toward the end of the stream.
And in others you might get 1/2" or 1/16". You need a LOT more than one can in order to determine your PR, and more importantly your DU.
Attached Images
 

Last edited by Kiril; 07-10-2012 at 10:22 AM.
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  #37  
Old 07-10-2012, 10:19 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgaengineer View Post
There ya have it...nothing wrong with math, but simply watching the plant can tell you just about all you need.
If you are waiting until the plants are showing signs of water deficit, then you have waited too long.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgaengineer View Post
I think Kiril lives in Cali which is a pretty constant temp year round...he probably lack freezing temps in winter and extreme temps in the summer...
No it is not a constant temperature, not even close. FYI, CA has nearly every climate zone on the map.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgaengineer View Post
Not saying he doesn't know what he's talking about because I'm sure he does...but I myself have been keeping nice lawns around here with 1" per week, tuna cans...rain gauges. I also use sand mixed with clay so my Bermuda is growing in adobe.
Anyone can water the piss out of a landscape and keep it looking decent .... AKA the lawnboy/homeowner schedule.
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  #38  
Old 07-10-2012, 10:24 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Location: District 9 CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White Gardens View Post
It's sandy soil, I'd water twice a day. Once in the early AM and once around 3pm for 60min each time.

Problem solved.
Seriously dude? I would have expected better from you than this completely unprofessional and poor advice.
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  #39  
Old 07-10-2012, 10:31 AM
Duekster Duekster is offline
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The general factoid being used right now is over 50% of the Potable Water is used on outdoor landscapes and 50% of that is wasted. If we as an industry do not police ourselves then we very well could see a move to remove turf grass or reduce it's use drastically.

Plants will use pretty much all the water you put on them unless your drown them. Kiril and I both come from States with water management plans. Texas is no where as strict as Cali but we are headed that way.

There is a movement to take away Turf Grass and wasteful use of water is going to make that happen. It is not that we want to be retentive about it but there is a lot that goes into effective irrigation systems.
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  #40  
Old 07-10-2012, 10:42 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Originally Posted by Duekster View Post
There is a movement to take away Turf Grass
Good. Even when properly irrigated it is still a massive waste of potable water. Like you said, sooner or later the government will just take your turf away by either restricting or removing your ability to irrigate your landscape. I tell clients all the time, if you don't use it (the turf), lose it. Some take my advise, some don't. I always strive to move landscapes I manage towards low-no inputs, and that means all inputs including labor.
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