St. Augustine is yellow

[greendoctor]

Originally Posted by Landscape Poet

Just a guess as we are dealing with something on the internet....but as other have said ...blades, cutting height etc.

One thing that I have learned is that SA will yellow like that if your have received too much water or applied too much - which would explain the addition of the Grey leaf that appears present but also applying a foliar spray of Mg and Mn often brings the color back in these spots here.

Too much water leads to anaerobic soil conditions, which hinders uptake of iron and other micronutrients. Micronutrients help with disease resistance.

[00bolt]

thanks guys, i dont really ever cut when wet nor do I cut alot off at a time. But I was cutting it a little shorter while I was waiting on it to thicken up and spread out, it just seemed to look better shorter.

that being said, I havent mowed it no in about a week and it does appear to be looking a LITTLE better. I took my mower blade off last night and sharpened the heck out of it on my grinder.

I also raised my mower to exactly 3" height, it was on about 2"

[Patriot Services]

4 would be better
Posted via Mobile Device

[Landscape Poet]

Originally Posted by greendoctor

Too much water leads to anaerobic soil conditions, which hinders uptake of iron and other micronutrients. Micronutrients help with disease resistance.

Do this conditions not allow the up take of foliar applications GD? I could not ever get my lawn fixed after massive amounts of rain until I started using a product for plant food systems called "complete". I like the Lesco Iron Plus for a good supplement for the lawns especially during the summer when you are not looking to push growth but try to maintain color. The "complete' foliar spray seems to hit instantly and with a couple of days all is fixed.

[Landscape Poet]

Originally Posted by Patriot Services

4 would be better
Posted via Mobile Device

I agree. Especially if you are wanting it to get thicker OP, you have to give the stolons a chance to layover and keep spreading

[greendoctor]

Originally Posted by Landscape Poet

Do this conditions not allow the up take of foliar applications GD? I could not ever get my lawn fixed after massive amounts of rain until I started using a product for plant food systems called "complete". I like the Lesco Iron Plus for a good supplement for the lawns especially during the summer when you are not looking to push growth but try to maintain color. The "complete' foliar spray seems to hit instantly and with a couple of days all is fixed.

Foliar applications will be effective even when root systems are compromised by bad soil conditions. That is why I use them. Be it too much water, compaction, or soil chemistry issues, a foliar will often work using less material per acre than a granular application. Having to load the soil with materials that the grass may not even utilize or may run off or leach makes little financial or environmental sense to me. That is why my fertilizer applications are 100% spray, no spreaders. In many instances, I have seen turf recover, then create its own organic matter and do its own aeration simply because it was fed available nutrients.

A frequent question asked is how can a lawn be maintained here on a 14 day mowing cycle. Those lawns are either never fertilized or they are fertilized with an emphasis on micronutrients rather than nitrogen for color. Throwing iron oxide or iron sulfide or iron sucrate granules on the ground is not an efficient means of providing the necessary iron for color. Nothing I do is by rote. It is all based on observation of the individual lawn and constant adjustments.

Take All Patch is a disease that is positively affected by foliar iron and manganese. Note that one of the symptoms of Take All is chlorotic patches before the turf dies completely. The grass is starved for micronutrients. I have been able to drastically reduce my fungicide applications to turf since making it SOP to add chelated micronutrients to every fertilizer application. Take All Patch is why there are very few Hawaii residential lawns that are bermuda any more. Many people lost their bermuda, then planted seashore paspalum which is even more susceptible and finally went to zoysia which seems to be fairly resistant to Take All under local conditions. However, starve zoysia for N and you will see severe dollar spot.

[Landscape Poet]

Originally Posted by greendoctor

Foliar applications will be effective even when root systems are compromised by bad soil conditions. That is why I use them. Be it too much water, compaction, or soil chemistry issues, a foliar will often work using less material per acre than a granular application. Having to load the soil with materials that the grass may not even utilize or may run off or leach makes little financial or environmental sense to me. That is why my fertilizer applications are 100% spray, no spreaders. In many instances, I have seen turf recover, then create its own organic matter and do its own aeration simply because it was fed available nutrients.

A frequent question asked is how can a lawn be maintained here on a 14 day mowing cycle. Those lawns are either never fertilized or they are fertilized with an emphasis on micronutrients rather than nitrogen for color. Throwing iron oxide or iron sulfide or iron sucrate granules on the ground is not an efficient means of providing the necessary iron for color. Nothing I do is by rote. It is all based on observation of the individual lawn and constant adjustments.

Take All Patch is a disease that is positively affected by foliar iron and manganese. Note that one of the symptoms of Take All is chlorotic patches before the turf dies completely. The grass is starved for micronutrients. I have been able to drastically reduce my fungicide applications to turf since making it SOP to add chelated micronutrients to every fertilizer application. Take All Patch is why there are very few Hawaii residential lawns that are bermuda any more. Many people lost their bermuda, then planted seashore paspalum which is even more susceptible and finally went to zoysia which seems to be fairly resistant to Take All under local conditions. However, starve zoysia for N and you will see severe dollar spot.

Thanks for your input.