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  #11  
Old 07-20-2012, 12:25 AM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is online now
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find out what is the precise delivery of the well - how many gpm at what pressures - make a chart, and forget what your pressure switch is set for - chart the well/pump performance to 70 psi at the tank, and maybe higher if the pressure switch will allow

you will forget about combining zones - you will run one zone at a time, and nozzle the heads in those zones to match the well performance - this is what was done in olden days, and you can do it today, even if the balance (balance means there is no cycling) between well and zone is met at a pump output beyond 70 psi, because modern pressure tanks are rated at 100 psi or greater - sometimes, you have to replace the pressure switch with a heftier model with a higher range of cutoff pressures - it's an effort, but worth it

but there is a shortcut

there are a family of devices that can retrofit to a well install, upstream of a pressure tank, that takes away all the hard work involved in balancing a system to a well - one such device is named Cycle-Stop Valve - you dial up your desired output pressure (a number below the cutoff on your pressure switch) and the device maintains that outlet pressure that makes your sprinklers work, and the pump operates continuously the entire time the zone is on
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  #12  
Old 08-02-2012, 11:46 AM
e171fish e171fish is offline
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The csv is interesting but I'm going to try balancing by adding additional spray heads to Zones 1-3 so they can run independently. The zones could actually use additional heads for better coverage.

The remaining zones are balanced.

Thinking about using the Hunter I-Core controller. Any thoughts?

Thanks
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  #13  
Old 08-02-2012, 12:07 PM
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If you get the entire system balanced, what problem does the existing controller present? Does continuous well operation at any output pressure whatsoever (going above 70 psi here) run the well dry?
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  #14  
Old 08-02-2012, 05:34 PM
e171fish e171fish is offline
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The current controller only allows a 10 minute delay between stations.

I've never ran the well dry, but after 3 plus hours of irrigation, we get the yellowish/brown water inside from what the well company believes is sediment being introduced because the well has drawn down.
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  #15  
Old 08-02-2012, 05:41 PM
slava slava is offline
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AFAIK RainBird LXME has Cycle&Soack function. You can use it. It's some sort of dirty hack, but should work.
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  #16  
Old 08-02-2012, 05:50 PM
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you are still pissing in the wind until you know what the deal is with the well's recharge rate - find out what it is

the colored water is probably years of deposits on the walls of the well shaft, that come loose when the water level drops more than in past years - you can simply filter it out for the time being
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  #17  
Old 08-02-2012, 07:30 PM
e171fish e171fish is offline
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The well is only 2.5 years old. Does the recharge rate test need to be done by my well installer?
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  #18  
Old 08-02-2012, 07:37 PM
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Mike Leary Mike Leary is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e171fish View Post
The well is only 2.5 years old. Does the recharge rate test need to be done by my well installer
We call it a "pump-down" test up north, and, yes, your installer should have provided you paperwork for demand/recharge criteria. I'd be thinking of another well guy to do a test, if you've got no info.
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  #19  
Old 08-02-2012, 07:40 PM
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that test should be done when the well is drilled, but you could still do filtration - it isn't like yours is the first ever well to bring up unbeautiful water
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  #20  
Old 08-28-2012, 09:58 AM
e171fish e171fish is offline
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Quick update... All of my zones are now balanced to prevent the well pump from cycling.

I'm just waiting on a Hunter I-Core controller to replace the Rainbird unit so I can set longer a longer delay b/n stations to allow the well to recharge.

Should be all set after it arrives.

Thanks for all of the helpful information.
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