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  #21  
Old 08-19-2012, 02:32 PM
Duekster Duekster is offline
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http://www.pbigordon.com/pdfs/OrnamecOTT-SL.pdf

I do not see it via quick scan but I do see to use surfactant and apply 3 times to kill bermuda. Gly may be a better choice to initially kill.
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  #22  
Old 08-19-2012, 03:18 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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Killing bermuda is a process that should be started 2 months before you are actually ready to re grass. I see the results of one application of glyphosate 1 week prior or worse yet, QuickPro regularly. I use RoundUp, Fusilade, and Triclopyr. At least 3 applications at two week intervals. Oh, yes, the area should be on automatic irrigation during the kill out unless it rains 1" per week guaranteed. Can't kill weeds that are partially dormant due to drought.
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  #23  
Old 08-19-2012, 03:49 PM
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Brett Thomas Brett Thomas is offline
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no one uses fusilade ??
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  #24  
Old 08-19-2012, 03:51 PM
Duekster Duekster is offline
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Quote:
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no one uses fusilade ??
Did you read the post above yours?
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  #25  
Old 08-19-2012, 03:54 PM
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Brett Thomas Brett Thomas is offline
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no my bad just running through
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  #26  
Old 08-19-2012, 04:05 PM
Duekster Duekster is offline
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no my bad just running through
I do it too.
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  #27  
Old 08-19-2012, 04:42 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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On further thinking, the only thing the RoundUp is good for in that mix is as a surfactant. A mix of Fusilade and Triclopyr covers both grassy and broadleaf weeds. For sedges, either Certainty or Sedgehammer gets added.
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  #28  
Old 08-19-2012, 06:17 PM
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ron mexico75 ron mexico75 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
Killing bermuda is a process that should be started 2 months before you are actually ready to re grass. I see the results of one application of glyphosate 1 week prior or worse yet, QuickPro regularly. I use RoundUp, Fusilade, and Triclopyr. At least 3 applications at two week intervals. Oh, yes, the area should be on automatic irrigation during the kill out unless it rains 1" per week guaranteed. Can't kill weeds that are partially dormant due to drought.
Believe me I love getting started early. However, these people just wait and ponder. Its annoying as I don't know what. It seems Im always the one stuck worrying and scrambling for time at this particular house. As it stands now, they just told me on Thursday to give them an estimate for getting rid of the infestation area. It approx. 20 x 9. Outside of that, there is some creeping into the good part of the lawn from this area that needs to be treated selectively.

As far as the area that is going to get hit for a total kill, the option I came p with since Im pinched for time is; spray with Quick Pro this upcoming week. I will wait one full week and then spray again with Quick Pro. Scalp it down, till to get a good seed bed for new grass. Iwill just rake out whatever stems get tilled up.

I know for a fact, and I am aware it will come back. This is where I will be spot treating with the ornamec when it breaks dormancy in the spring and then again in the fall when its storing energy in its roots for winter dormancy. I'm hoping this will be a good enough plan to keep it in check for a few years and eventually win this fight.
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  #29  
Old 08-19-2012, 06:58 PM
Skipster Skipster is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett Thomas View Post
no one uses fusilade ??
Fusilade isn't labeled for home lawns, so anyone servicing home lawns shouldnt' be using it. That's why a lot of guys have posted about Ornamec, which is a glufosinate that doesn't have that restriction.

But, something makes me think that a lot of guys are using Fusilade illegally.
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  #30  
Old 08-19-2012, 11:50 PM
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ron mexico75 ron mexico75 is offline
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So to get back on my topic rather than it being hijacked what do you think of my plan?

Does it seem like a thought out realistic plan or do you think there's something better?
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