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  #11  
Old 08-20-2012, 01:03 PM
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Pop those caps off and get them staggered.
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  #12  
Old 08-20-2012, 01:04 PM
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thanks DVS, kind of disappointed you didnt have more to say haha
as for the access, thats QUEENS BABY. I didnt even meet with these people until they emiled me about 20 pics of the yard and I told them a price range and they OK-ed it. I hate working out there but they pay what I ask. any estimates on a dollar amt?
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Old 08-20-2012, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by alldayrj View Post
thanks DVS, kind of disappointed you didnt have more to say haha
as for the access, thats QUEENS BABY. I didnt even meet with these people until they emiled me about 20 pics of the yard and I told them a price range and they OK-ed it. I hate working out there but they pay what I ask. any estimates on a dollar amt?
That means your too cheap!! How does the wall end on the right side as you are looking at it?? Looks like it just abruptly ends... Any Geo fabric?? Also what size is the drainage chimney??
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:39 PM
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thats what I want to know, what would you guys charge? no geo, about 18" of clean stone behind with 4" pipe.
It ends flat against that concrete wall.
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:04 PM
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My view is from a smartphone. 2x4 screen.

Last year I made some comments about some steps someone showed on this site, and turned out it wasn't why it appeared
On my little screen.

Well, some loud mouth from out west went off on a tangent telling me I'm full of poop and what a jerk i am and that there is no way my view of the pics was off.....

So when viewing pics via smartphone, I usually don't look them too closely as I'm probably wrong.

.
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:06 AM
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Geo is a must on a wall like this..... With out it the soil will bleed into your drainage chimney. Also 18" chimney is pretty weak on a wall of that height.
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:37 AM
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Ok geo is a must next time. Got it.
Any vague rule for size of drainage next time? I just overdug enough so i had room to work
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Old 08-21-2012, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by DVS Hardscaper View Post
No. In this case you do not need to bury more than the first course. For this application you're good with 1" / foot of wall height. If a patio is adjoining the wall - the patio will hold the wall from sliding forward. The purpose of burying block is so the wall doesn't slide.
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Dang i have always buried the first course. Now I can save some serious time on my next job!! there's always something to learn
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Old 08-21-2012, 11:12 PM
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Dang i have always buried the first course. Now I can save some serious time on my next job!! there's always something to learn
We bury the first course too.

Again, just to make myself clear, if there are pavers butting up to the wall - then I may spec the work where the 1st course is not entirely buried as the pavers will keep the block from moving. This is based on the wall being no more than 30" in height.

For the folks that are reading this and that are new to this stuff - it's important to know the reason why block is typically set 1" into the ground for every 12-inches of wall height. And that reason is to keep the wall from sliding forward (down the hill). Note: Sliding and "rotating" are two different things


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  #20  
Old 08-22-2012, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by DVS Hardscaper View Post
We bury the first course too.

Again, just to make myself clear, if there are pavers butting up to the wall - then I may spec the work where the 1st course is not entirely buried as the pavers will keep the block from moving. This is based on the wall being no more than 30" in height.

For the folks that are reading this and that are new to this stuff - it's important to know the reason why block is typically set 1" into the ground for every 12-inches of wall height. And that reason is to keep the wall from sliding forward (down the hill). Note: Sliding and "rotating" are two different things


.
Oh please that not really what it is for. We just do it so we can burn up more block and charge more!!
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