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  #1  
Old 08-31-2012, 01:06 AM
lav86 lav86 is offline
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Dethatch+aerate+overseed?

Hey guys I'm new to the site and new to lawn care, so basically i want to aerate my lawn because it died this summer from the heat and wanted to know if i could dethatch+aerate in 1 day and overseed a few days later?which is best to do?thanks
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Old 08-31-2012, 09:36 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Unless you have a need to aerate,,, for an actual reason,,, you'll have much better results by running a slit-seeder over the ground just the way it is and keeping it watered... soil to seed contact can be made in the bottom of the slit,,, but if not, seed to mulch contact is even better, becuz the mulch doesn't dry out as quickly as dirt does...
De-thatching is an error for cool-season grasses,,, even for seeding...

If your lawn is truly dead,,, then even if you had a thick layer of living thatch,,, that will be truly dead as well...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
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Old 08-31-2012, 11:24 AM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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My opinion. Use high-quality disease-resistant seed, suited to your climate. Start in late summer when temps come down to 85.Warm soil causes quick germination, (if moist). Mow as short as you can--removing the residue. Add starter fert. Power rake and sow seed or slit seed. Mulch over the top with the residue you just removed. Water every day for 30 days. Use turf building fert after 30 days and again at 60 days.
Let us know what happens, OK?
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:55 PM
turfcobob turfcobob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
My opinion. Use high-quality disease-resistant seed, suited to your climate. Start in late summer when temps come down to 85.Warm soil causes quick germination, (if moist). Mow as short as you can--removing the residue. Add starter fert. Power rake and sow seed or slit seed. Mulch over the top with the residue you just removed. Water every day for 30 days. Use turf building fert after 30 days and again at 60 days.
Let us know what happens, OK?
What he says, except I would aerate up to 12 holes per sq ft right after the mowing. Plugs help cover seed and holes make a great place for seed to get a start.
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  #5  
Old 08-31-2012, 07:00 PM
JoJo1990 JoJo1990 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
...
De-thatching is an error for cool-season grasses,,, even for seeding...
What? Please explain how de-thatching a lawn is an 'error'?
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  #6  
Old 08-31-2012, 08:24 PM
lav86 lav86 is offline
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Hey guys thanks for quick replies, what about top dressing I bought a few bags of that Scott's lawn soil bags..what step should that be??
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  #7  
Old 09-01-2012, 12:26 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Originally Posted by JoJo1990 View Post
What? Please explain how de-thatching a lawn is an 'error'?
I've laid out the reasoning in a couple of similar threads, just recently...
perhaps it would be simpler to explain why removing the natural soil covering is beneficial...

remember that no-one proposes doing it to conquer living thatch... verticutting and aeration won those spots in the professional's tool kit...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #8  
Old 09-01-2012, 12:32 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Originally Posted by lav86 View Post
Hey guys thanks for quick replies, what about top dressing I bought a few bags of that Scott's lawn soil bags..what step should that be??
Posted via Mobile Device
If I get to topdress I haul in compost by the pickup load and just spead evenly about the lawn, adding more to areas that have more grass clippings showing than grass that growing...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #9  
Old 09-01-2012, 08:59 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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I am not a proponent of top dressing to cover the seed to substitute for proper soil preparation. I think you would need too much. If you planned to bury the seed a quarter inch deep. My estimate is 21 cubic feet per 1000 sqft. (That would be three-quarters of a cubic yard per 1000 sqft. (Around 1650 pounds).
http://www.ask.com/questions-about/W...c-Yard-Topsoil
And it is nearly impossible to spread it evenly.
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  #10  
Old 09-02-2012, 09:04 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
I am not a proponent of top dressing to cover the seed to substitute for proper soil preparation. I think you would need too much. If you planned to bury the seed a quarter inch deep. My estimate is 21 cubic feet per 1000 sqft. (That would be three-quarters of a cubic yard per 1000 sqft. (Around 1650 pounds).
http://www.ask.com/questions-about/W...c-Yard-Topsoil
And it is nearly impossible to spread it evenly.
When it comes to overseeding existing turf, it will also be impossible to stir up the soil 1/4" deep as well... I would want seed to germinate in a space between 2 plants 2" wide...

When the grass is cut short those 2", or more, bare spots really show up all over the lawn and you just can culivate those spots to be 1/4" deep w/out harrassing the plants all around it... many times the seed is still visible, just sitting on the surface of that bare spot so the compost, even a little compost, makes the necessary contact for the seed to germinate while on the surface...

This is the very reason why having dead grass clippings sitting in these little bare spots is so important... the seed will never stay in place otherwise...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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