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  #31  
Old 09-05-2012, 02:00 PM
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Florida Gardener Florida Gardener is offline
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Location: Humid S. Fl. with sights set on San Diego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriot Services View Post
Not around here CG will pop up in the healthiest of SA even with two rounds of pre em at 3 month spacing. My experience has been there will always be a small amount to control. 100% CG free is not possible. Spray, scalp, mow, smother, spray again and you still will have some to deal with. It's all about a tolerance level for the customer.
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Totally agree. CG is a perennial weed here in a Florida. I now at right height and it will still show up. I agree, it's all about a tolerance level for the customer.
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  #32  
Old 09-05-2012, 10:15 PM
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Think Green Think Green is offline
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Florida members,
With the amount of sandy soil conditions, it appears to me that Pre-M products will not stay in the soil anyway. If there is no clay or organic mater to bond to.....the product just washes down and out.l
What is your proven methods for sandy loam soils.?
I have quite a few that is sandy loam and have to switch from Pendimethalin to Prodiamine and then finally to Simazine after frost.
This kicks my butt as it is time consuming but gets the job done. We don't have the long season of growing you do in the tropic zone...............I guess this is a big factor for you guys.
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  #33  
Old 09-05-2012, 11:03 PM
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Florida Gardener Florida Gardener is offline
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Originally Posted by Think Green View Post
Florida members,
With the amount of sandy soil conditions, it appears to me that Pre-M products will not stay in the soil anyway. If there is no clay or organic mater to bond to.....the product just washes down and out.l
What is your proven methods for sandy loam soils.?
I have quite a few that is sandy loam and have to switch from Pendimethalin to Prodiamine and then finally to Simazine after frost.
This kicks my butt as it is time consuming but gets the job done. We don't have the long season of growing you do in the tropic zone...............I guess this is a big factor for you guys.
I'm not licensed to do lawn apps. But CG is a year round weed here. If we get a freeze, it will kill off what's there, but that is a big if. From GA north, you guys can pretty much count on CG to die in winter, not the same in Florida. In Florida, there are 3 certainties in life. Death, taxes, and year round Crabgrass.
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  #34  
Old 09-11-2012, 04:21 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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sod over crabgrass

Here is the result so far, after 18 days. Sod was laid on top of crabgrass with no preparation whatsoever, in late August. Temps about 85, but trending downward, 78 today, 44 degrees last night. Weather was mostly dry so it turned brown, but since then I have been watering it with a hose a few minutes a day. Beginning to tack down. Looks slightly better.
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  #35  
Old 09-17-2012, 09:46 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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Sod on top of crabgrass

With his OK, I laid a roll of sod on top of a heavily crabgrass-infested part of my neighbor's lawn, (not irrigated). By 24 days, September 17 the sod had killed the crabgrass and good grass underneath it. The sod had tacked down and settled in slightly. It turned brown at first, in the first three days--and then I began to water it for a few minutes every day. Then my neighbor hired some kid to mow it with a lawn tractor--and it was scalped due to the slope near the road. Recovering slowly.

Crabgrass is looking a bit brownish. Low temp last week was 44. Light rain tonight.
A single sprout of nutsedge has appeared in the sod. A few small grubs have appeared.
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  #36  
Old 09-18-2012, 07:09 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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It's amazing how much abuse grass plants can take and still survive this time of year...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #37  
Old 09-20-2012, 07:45 PM
troyd1 troyd1 is offline
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newspaper

Hi Guys, Just wanted to share a trick I have used that has worked for me.
If I have an area of exclusive weeds I will put down one sheet of ordinary newspaper and a little growing medium on top of the paper.
Then I put my seed and a little dead grass, straw, whatever.
If you get your timing right your seed will fill in the area before the weeds can push through the paper. Paper stays moist a little longer than general soil also.
Here it is organics or nothing as chemicals are prohibited. Have had decent success with this method. Joined this site after years of lurking just to post this. All you Canadians better try it or I will be disappointed.
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  #38  
Old 09-20-2012, 08:16 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by troyd1 View Post
Hi Guys, Just wanted to share a trick I have used that has worked for me.
If I have an area of exclusive weeds I will put down one sheet of ordinary newspaper and a little growing medium on top of the paper.
Then I put my seed and a little dead grass, straw, whatever.
If you get your timing right your seed will fill in the area before the weeds can push through the paper. Paper stays moist a little longer than general soil also.
Here it is organics or nothing as chemicals are prohibited. Have had decent success with this method. Joined this site after years of lurking just to post this. All you Canadians better try it or I will be disappointed.
That is a good idea for a lot of annual weeds,,, however,,, perennial weeds simply use the mulch type covering to expand its root base and will definately out perform the young grass to a large extent...

There is no panacea for any type of weed control and it is necessary to understand what you are dealling with... in fact: this strategy can promote the sudden appearance of Canadian Thistle which is beyond control in one season... I experienced that back in the 70's(and several times since then), so be careful how you proceed...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #39  
Old 09-20-2012, 09:34 PM
troyd1 troyd1 is offline
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it is all about the timing

In order for it to succeed you have to seed when weeds are all done. It is never perfect. But is has merit.
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  #40  
Old 09-21-2012, 08:02 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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Interesting method, Troy! You are in a no chemical area. So you are saying cover a weedy area with a sheet of newspaper and add soil on top. How much soil?
Is the newspaper thick enough to block the light--(thereby killing the weeds) and yet thin enough to allow the grass roots to penetrate into the soil, and thin enough to decompose in a few months (permitting normal grass growth)?
Would this kill any good grass along with the weeds?
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