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  #11  
Old 09-03-2012, 04:24 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by recycledsole View Post
hello
i got the job next week
i would appreciate any advice
thanks
It will likely be fine to use a local "Shade Mix", if Poa Supina isn't going to work in your Climate Zone...

Cultural Practices for Shade are completely different than Cultual Practices for normal sun or partial sun lawns...

You can get it to grow ,,, but to keep it alive and prospering is the trick... If you're interested in my experiences and trial and errors ,,, let me know...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #12  
Old 09-04-2012, 07:15 PM
recycledsole recycledsole is online now
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: MD
Posts: 1,918
Yes sir im intrested in your expereinces
thanks for the advice !


Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
It will likely be fine to use a local "Shade Mix", if Poa Supina isn't going to work in your Climate Zone...

Cultural Practices for Shade are completely different than Cultual Practices for normal sun or partial sun lawns...

You can get it to grow ,,, but to keep it alive and prospering is the trick... If you're interested in my experiences and trial and errors ,,, let me know...
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  #13  
Old 09-04-2012, 08:12 PM
recycledsole recycledsole is online now
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: MD
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wow, it seems the best thing to do would be to areate the entire yard to start off with
apparently grass needs 4-6 hours minimum...
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  #14  
Old 09-05-2012, 09:56 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,903
With all the moss and shade you are dealing with, along with the need for aeration, there is plenty of evidence of too much water... even to get the seed to germinate,,, you don't need irrigation on 2 or 3 time a day or even every day, once it cools down... be sure to always mulch mow because that is going to give you the eco-system for the grass to compete with the trees...

Do not fertilize until Fall, when you do it as a winterizer and do not put down starter fertilizer with your seed... shade is low maintenance only and when people put down lots of N in the shade the grass begins to thin out, almost immediately... forcing bright green top growth over strained and shallow roots never works...

Low maintenance for us is fertilizing after the first couple of mowings in the Spring and a Fall applications that fills up its reserves for the winter... too much water and too much N is why people say "you can't grow grass in the shade" ... good luck...
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-06-2012, 08:33 AM
recycledsole recycledsole is online now
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: MD
Posts: 1,918
thanks alot small axe
i told the client its too shady and reccomended a shade garden.
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