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Old 09-07-2012, 11:03 PM
Ijustwantausername's Avatar
Ijustwantausername Ijustwantausername is offline
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Raleigh NC
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Anyone care to help me make an "app" schedule?

So this is my scenario. I have bermuda and fescue in my yard which happens to be the most common grasses in my area. I have practiced fert and squirt on both of them for about 2 years now and have had good luck with it. I'd like to "experiment" with some of my good customers and hopefully start offering this as a service.

So how do I go about making a 2, 3, 4 or how ever many apps schedule and how do I know what XX-X-XX fertilizer/pre-m to use and when? I realize a soil sample is a must with this, but how do people not do a sample and still offer 3 apps a year? Irresponsibility?

I know pre-m goes down in feb or so, then the post-emergent in april, then a fert app in summer etc. But how do I put that together in a package and sell it since everyone has their "own" little plan.

Any help is greatly appreciated because I have had numerous calls pertaining to this the last few months and I can't keep passing it up.
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Old 09-08-2012, 05:32 AM
RAlmaroad RAlmaroad is offline
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Location: SC
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Use good common sense:
Pre-Emergent in February to be there when the seeds sprout (The seed sends out a hair root and the available Barricade or Dimension applied fries it.)
Along about April after grass has come out of dormancy apply your fertilizer such as a 15-5-10 or what ever a good soil test recommend. (Soil test in March is generally done)
"then the post-emergent in april" Your thoughts here are a little premature--use a post a little later towards the first of the summer. Give the pre-em a little time to work. Just remember that a pre-emergent application will only last 60-90 days. A second application and even a third is generally needed, so you could split those.
Fertilize again after 60-70 days if normal rainfall or sooner if very wet spring or longer if dry. Hopefully a irrigated lawn will take care of the interval. Fertilizer will leach in sandy soil so yet another factor.
During the fall, a very important fertilizer factor for fescue and bluegrass: Apply a stronger potassium and ample nitrogen for the roots to store for the beginning of spring the next season. In your area some time before grass goes dormant so the uptake of the fertilize can be metabolized by sun. After dormancy, it is too late to apply a winterizer.
You'll probably get some winter weeds. Probably need a blanket of T-Zone or a Three-Way but don't overdo, especially if close to spring.

As mentioned, use common sense and learn to read the conditions and anticipate what is going to happen. Some others will fine tune this for you, but this should get you thinking. Lastly, you need a license to work commercially, but if just your own lawn you will be OK.

Hope this will help a little.
Got lots of friends in Raleigh, Cary and Garner.
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  #3  
Old 09-08-2012, 09:40 AM
Ijustwantausername's Avatar
Ijustwantausername Ijustwantausername is offline
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 792
Quote:
Originally Posted by RAlmaroad View Post
Use good common sense:
Pre-Emergent in February to be there when the seeds sprout (The seed sends out a hair root and the available Barricade or Dimension applied fries it.)
Along about April after grass has come out of dormancy apply your fertilizer such as a 15-5-10 or what ever a good soil test recommend. (Soil test in March is generally done)
"then the post-emergent in april" Your thoughts here are a little premature--use a post a little later towards the first of the summer. Give the pre-em a little time to work. Just remember that a pre-emergent application will only last 60-90 days. A second application and even a third is generally needed, so you could split those.
Fertilize again after 60-70 days if normal rainfall or sooner if very wet spring or longer if dry. Hopefully a irrigated lawn will take care of the interval. Fertilizer will leach in sandy soil so yet another factor.
During the fall, a very important fertilizer factor for fescue and bluegrass: Apply a stronger potassium and ample nitrogen for the roots to store for the beginning of spring the next season. In your area some time before grass goes dormant so the uptake of the fertilize can be metabolized by sun. After dormancy, it is too late to apply a winterizer.
You'll probably get some winter weeds. Probably need a blanket of T-Zone or a Three-Way but don't overdo, especially if close to spring.

As mentioned, use common sense and learn to read the conditions and anticipate what is going to happen. Some others will fine tune this for you, but this should get you thinking. Lastly, you need a license to work commercially, but if just your own lawn you will be OK.

Hope this will help a little.
Got lots of friends in Raleigh, Cary and Garner.
Thanks RAI. I actually got my ornamental and turf lic. last year. What's the 15-5-10 for? Top growth? What's a good number ratio for the fall N and K you mentioned?
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  #4  
Old 09-08-2012, 09:57 AM
grassmasterswilson grassmasterswilson is online now
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Location: nc
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look on turffiles that nc state does. you will have a problem with having both grasses. you will need different apps. fescue likes fert in fall and spring. bermuda likes fert in summer.
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  #5  
Old 09-09-2012, 10:46 PM
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cpllawncare cpllawncare is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Greenville, SC
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I'm thinking your state extension office should be able to help you the most, with an app schedule for your zone. I've looked at NC State's good info there
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