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  #71  
Old 06-01-2012, 04:08 PM
Skipster Skipster is offline
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To go back to the topic of soil health, I think the main issue here is soil organic matter and proper plant nutrition. No matter which side of the fence you come down on with regards to mycorrhizal inoculation or microbial introduction, all sources (those for and against adding biologicals) emphasize that some level of organic matter is needed to support biological processes and that poor soil nutrient status leads to poor plant health.
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  #72  
Old 06-01-2012, 07:06 PM
Duekster Duekster is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skipster View Post
To go back to the topic of soil health, I think the main issue here is soil organic matter and proper plant nutrition. No matter which side of the fence you come down on with regards to mycorrhizal inoculation or microbial introduction, all sources (those for and against adding biologicals) emphasize that some level of organic matter is needed to support biological processes and that poor soil nutrient status leads to poor plant health.
That would be a priority in all cases where the soil barren. No argument there. Those are primary tools.
not sure I deviated from the discussion
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  #73  
Old 06-05-2012, 08:25 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Soil health or value would have a lot to do with soil structure regardless of soil texture... OM makes the difference between dirt vs. soil IMO...

Dumping NPK on dirt that has no CE sites to either hold the ferts for transfer or indeed be available for transfer to the plant in adequate amounts is a waste of NPK and leaves the lawncare guy blaming those evil contractors...

Compacted clay vs. sandy sieve would be handled differently in order to make it healthy, and dumping microbes onto it without food or regard to habitat is no different than dumping NPK w/out regard to CEC...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #74  
Old 06-05-2012, 10:11 PM
Duekster Duekster is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
Soil health or value would have a lot to do with soil structure regardless of soil texture... OM makes the difference between dirt vs. soil IMO...

Dumping NPK on dirt that has no CE sites to either hold the ferts for transfer or indeed be available for transfer to the plant in adequate amounts is a waste of NPK and leaves the lawncare guy blaming those evil contractors...

Compacted clay vs. sandy sieve would be handled differently in order to make it healthy, and dumping microbes onto it without food or regard to habitat is no different than dumping NPK w/out regard to CEC...
so you withhold the plant food because the soil is poor?
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  #75  
Old 06-06-2012, 07:25 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Originally Posted by Duekster View Post
so you withhold the plant food because the soil is poor?
Yes... That's exactly right...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #76  
Old 09-14-2012, 02:33 AM
timturf timturf is offline
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[QUOTE=phasthound;4426400]Well, to keep the party going, add more organic matter. In addition, much of the food for microbes is exuded by plant roots. In fact, the exudate will favor the microbes that are beneficial to the plant. Roots constantly slough of dead cells which add to SOM.

Microbes also are responsible for mining nutrients from the inorganic parent material of the soil. Mycorrhizea are critical for unlocking P and transporting it to plant roots. Certain nitrifying bacteria extract N from the air in soil pores and make it plant available.

The human part of the puzzle is to use practices which enhance rather than harm the process that builds soil health.[/QUOTE]

Couldn't agree more
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Timothy J Murphy Specializing in Quality Turf
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Primarly work with cool season turf
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  #77  
Old 09-14-2012, 02:36 AM
timturf timturf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phasthound View Post
I recommend aeration for the first year or so into a soil building program for turf grass because I think it will speed the process. After that, as long as you are able to maintain a healthy balance of life in the soil aeration should not be needed.

The exception is sports turf due to constant compaction from play.
Lot of facters, But an important one is soil tpye, and the soil chemistry
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Timothy J Murphy Specializing in Quality Turf
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Almost 40 yrs exp., 20 as GC superintendent
Primarly work with cool season turf
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  #78  
Old 09-14-2012, 02:43 AM
timturf timturf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
Soil health or value would have a lot to do with soil structure regardless of soil texture... OM makes the difference between dirt vs. soil IMO...

Dumping NPK on dirt that has no CE sites to either hold the ferts for transfer or indeed be available for transfer to the plant in adequate amounts is a waste of NPK and leaves the lawncare guy blaming those evil contractors...

Compacted clay vs. sandy sieve would be handled differently in order to make it healthy, and dumping microbes onto it without food or regard to habitat is no different than dumping NPK w/out regard to CEC...

I basical agree, but you need to spoon feed the turf, not dump npk
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Timothy J Murphy Specializing in Quality Turf
Bs in Plant and Soil Science
Almost 40 yrs exp., 20 as GC superintendent
Primarly work with cool season turf
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  #79  
Old 09-14-2012, 07:55 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timturf View Post
I basical agree, but you need to spoon feed the turf, not dump npk
I prefer to build soil fertility that doesn't require constant input... I work towards a mature lawn that doesn't need constant irrigation, because I have lawns w/out irrigation...

I feed once in the mid-late Spring, before the heat and twice in the Fall, one of which is winterizer @ the rate of .5 lbs/k... If I see a need I can bump it up another .5/k before winter, but not likely... no dumping NPK and no spoon-feeding...

The health of the grass depends on the health of the soil, so my cultural practices accomplish those 2 things first... later we do the all important Packer Green turf color, which works well w/out creating living thatch if the first 2 things are done correctly...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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