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  #11  
Old 09-23-2012, 07:52 AM
jcom jcom is offline
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Yep, half the zones are in a remote area and served by 1" poly and the reason I don't want pressure until controller opens valve. Half zones are close to the house and served by PVC.

John
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  #12  
Old 09-23-2012, 08:55 AM
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1idejim 1idejim is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcom View Post
Yep, half the zones are in a remote area and served by 1" poly and the reason I don't want pressure until controller opens valve. Half zones are close to the house and served by PVC.

John
that makes sense to me now.
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  #13  
Old 09-23-2012, 09:07 AM
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To some degree you are trusting that the valves you installed are always going to open when you want them to, but this is true of a lot of poly mainline installs.
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  #14  
Old 09-25-2012, 06:23 AM
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AI Inc AI Inc is offline
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that makes sense to me now.
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Dosnt to me, no need to use a MV just cause of polly.
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  #15  
Old 09-25-2012, 11:18 AM
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Dosnt to me, no need to use a MV just cause of polly.
I'd rather install the master valve than to trust otherwise-reliable utility-grade poly with 24/7 street pressure.
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  #16  
Old 09-25-2012, 06:01 PM
jcom jcom is offline
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Precisely Badger Man
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  #17  
Old 09-25-2012, 06:21 PM
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CAPT Stream Rotar CAPT Stream Rotar is offline
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make your polly fittings right, know your working pressure...

we have hundreds of poly mains with no MV...no leaks yet.
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  #18  
Old 09-25-2012, 07:31 PM
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When the pressure is 24/7, things can change. Water hammer from closing zone valves is reason enough for a master valve upstream of poly mains, but there is something further that may only happen with some tubing, when the pressure is 24/7. I use mostly Oil Creek and Charter brands of non-NSF 100-psi tubing, which is the modern high-density material and all-virgin poly resin, (even though utility-grade poly tubing, by its not being NSF-rated, could contain remelted material)

If I do have a poly mainline under 24/7 pressure, like when there are hose bibs tied in, that mainline will only be NSF-rated tubing, at a pressure rating well beyond the static pressure in the system. No worries so far. On a master-valve-fed poly mainline, I can use the ordinary utility-grade poly, and probably save more on the mainline poly than the cost of the master valve.
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  #19  
Old 09-25-2012, 08:42 PM
Mdirrigation Mdirrigation is offline
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Every system we install gets a master valve , and we use all pvc . Why ? We put in a quality system , a master valve is part of that quality . We have city water pressure as high as 135 psi in some areas. ( my house is 125 before the regulator , my hose spicot is before the regulator its great) . I fix leaking poly mains weekly , I always advise that a MV be added . Or I will be back again .
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