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  #21  
Old 09-24-2012, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RAlmaroad View Post
Ric:
You are SO right. The fungal fighting of the potassium sulfate and IF using ammonium sulfate as a Nitrogen source, far outweigh other fertilize. These will help lower the pH of turf, which most fungi hate. Centipede will die from too much chlorine, another reason for the potassium nitrate rather the Potash derived from Chlorine as is in most common blends. I like 14-0-46 (Potassium Nitrate) and 0-0-21(Ammonium Sulfate) and dissolve both in a 5-gallon bucket of slurry with warm water and also fill the tank with water and about 4 oz of vinegar the night before so it can warm up also.
Roy
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With a soil pH over 9.5 on most of my accounts I actually use more Potassium Sulfate and Ammonium Sulfate than any other forms. Look to minors Like MG to help with fungus issues. Some minors have drying effects on some fungi.

One reason I might not have trouble mixing is my calibration of 5 gallons per thousand of finish spray. I know that is old school but it works for me.

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  #22  
Old 09-24-2012, 06:20 PM
turfmd101 turfmd101 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric View Post
Roy

With a soil pH over 9.5 on most of my accounts I actually use more Potassium Sulfate and Ammonium Sulfate than any other forms. Look to minors Like MG to help with fungus issues. Some minors have drying effects on some fungi.

One reason I might not have trouble mixing is my calibration of 5 gallons per thousand of finish spray. I know that is old school but it works for me.

.
With each sulfate mentioned. Applying them at rate would give you about 1# of sulfur per 1000sq. from both.
This amount seems low at 0.1lb per 100sq ft. What's the pH change? 0.0...what? Or is my math incorrect. My info is based on label percentages of sulfur for AS and PS.
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  #23  
Old 09-30-2012, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by turfmd101 View Post
With each sulfate mentioned. Applying them at rate would give you about 1# of sulfur per 1000sq. from both.
This amount seems low at 0.1lb per 100sq ft. What's the pH change? 0.0...what? Or is my math incorrect. My info is based on label percentages of sulfur for AS and PS.
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Looks like your math is off a bit. At rate assuming your rate is 1 lb N you would be getting 1.14 lb of sulfate. The sulfate form of sulfer does not lower Ph of soil so that is a mute point anyway. Sulfur needs to be in the elemental form to effectively lower Ph. The acid forming process of fertilizer occurs when the ammonium converts to nitrate. Since ammonium sulfate is 100% ammonium it is about 2x more acidifying than other forms of nitrogen.
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  #24  
Old 09-30-2012, 08:11 PM
turfmd101 turfmd101 is offline
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[QUOTE=ProMo;4540966]Looks like your math is off a bit. At rate assuming your rate is 1 lb N you would be getting 1.14 lb of sulfate. The sulfate form of sulfer does not lower Ph of soil so that is a mute point anyway. Sulfur needs to be in the elemental form to effectively lower Ph. The acid forming process of fertilizer occurs when the ammonium converts to nitrate. Since ammonium sulfate is 100% ammonium it is about 2x more acidifying than other forms of nitrogen.[


Around 1# was my way of not being exact at 1.14.
The rest of it ment. If you think this non-elemental form of sulfur is helping with soil pH. You would be greatly mistaken. I understand what happens during the conversion process. It just doesn't matter to pH as mentioned. Hence my response.
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  #25  
Old 09-30-2012, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ProMo View Post
Looks like your math is off a bit. At rate assuming your rate is 1 lb N you would be getting 1.14 lb of sulfate. The sulfate form of sulfer does not lower Ph of soil so that is a mute point anyway. Sulfur needs to be in the elemental form to effectively lower Ph. The acid forming process of fertilizer occurs when the ammonium converts to nitrate. Since ammonium sulfate is 100% ammonium it is about 2x more acidifying than other forms of nitrogen.
I noticed the incorrect assumption and math when it was first posted. I don't correct every Mis-information I see on Lawnsite. But before this gets out of hand with BS, I will post the correct information.

Sulfur compound fertilizer are ACID FORMING FERTILIZERS. While they do little to lower pH they are more available to plants in Alkaline soils.

Ammonium Sulfate Number are actually 21-0-0-24 where the 24 stands for 24% of the first minor Element which is sulfur. If you do the Chemistry of atomic weights then Ammonium Sulfate has 1 1/4 pounds of Sulfur for ever one pound of Nitrogen. Of course you have to have a real education in Chemistry to calculate the actual atomic weight of various composts. TG/Lesco training doesn't cover real chemistry and Self study doesn't seem to work either. I can only suggest the Western Fertilizer Handbook by the California Fertilizer Association.

BTW 10 pound of 0-0-0-90 Sulfur applied to 1000 sq ft of turf will lower pH times 10 or one point of pH in 30 days time. This is only a short fix because the pH will raise to it's original or normal pH.

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  #26  
Old 09-30-2012, 09:34 PM
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its not that ammonium sulfate does little to lower Ph it is just slow only lowering Ph about .2 per year with 3-4 lbs per k .
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  #27  
Old 10-01-2012, 03:58 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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Might not seem like much, but it does add up if done in warm season areas. I have to soil test before selecting my N source. You do not want to be applying ammonium sulfate to soil under pH 6.5. The calcium nitrate I use in an acid soil situation is only good on neutral soils if there is excessive magnesium. Therefore, I soil test before starting a fertilizer program.
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  #28  
Old 10-02-2012, 06:14 PM
RAlmaroad RAlmaroad is offline
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
Might not seem like much, but it does add up if done in warm season areas. I have to soil test before selecting my N source. You do not want to be applying ammonium sulfate to soil under pH 6.5. The calcium nitrate I use in an acid soil situation is only good on neutral soils if there is excessive magnesium. Therefore, I soil test before starting a fertilizer program.
Not only on starting but also during the year. In November and again in May. Over doing, yes. I can only imagine what you have to do with so many different soils. Mine are all in the same local with pH values not far from each other UNTIL I get ahold of them. As you told me, I'm also neutralizing the fertilize water. Good Call. Thanks
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  #29  
Old 10-02-2012, 07:50 PM
Trueturf Trueturf is offline
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Does anybody use a mesh screen basket to melt down their fertilizers. That is all I use and love it no slurrying in buckets or mixing if it goes through the screen then its diluted.
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  #30  
Old 10-03-2012, 03:19 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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I do, but it can be rough when you are trying to put 1-11/2 lb of material per gallon into solution and the strainer basket is not that big. With good jet agitation, there is not much problem getting things into solution by pouring material slowly into the tank.
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