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  #11  
Old 10-07-2012, 05:46 AM
Realslowww Realslowww is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickhippy View Post
I agree that the chassis is stiffer than last design. Floor pan/footrest is further out by a few inches there by making the caster arms shorter. Seems that way anyway. I haven't measured it.
I bet it's a rough ride without the flex forks!

That said, I'm sure there are other machines out there with stiffer designs. Look at the Scags for example.
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I had a Scag, nice mower but rode like a tank at 10 MPH. Making a mower that can cut and ride good at 15 MPH is no easy task. Like I stated, when I go to a dealer and do a demo and it has flex forks on it that is not a good sign.

Added weight always screws handling up,specially at high speeds.In something that moves fast weight is your enemy period. Just look at a semi.

Have people tried pneumatic front tired?
  #12  
Old 10-07-2012, 06:24 AM
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Scag was the other mower I was tossing up on, it was between scag and hustler, chose hustler as it seemed to be the strongest of the two and offered the 37 hp.

Do you recal whether the scag was rough at slower speeds? say 5 MPH. This hustler is rough at all speeds, in fact if you go slow enough you can actually feel the bumps even more than going a little quicker you skip over them a little better. I have put 15hrs on the mower so far and havent been able to find a speed or particular style of mowing which is not overly rough. Im sure if I go 1-3 kph I would not feel the bumps but this is un-realistic for cutting 3-4, 5 acre blocks per day.

pneaumatic tires may be worth a try, they may soak up the uneven terrain before sending the shock through the chassis. But i dont want to throw any money at it, if the dealer are prepared to do this that would be ok, the mechanic tried a set of standard non flex forks on it and didnt think there was a noticable difference in the ride. I would have liked to try myself. But really I dont have time to be sourcing the parts etc needed for this, Its coming into busy season and I just want to get on with work and making money out of the $18000 investment.

Last edited by greenology; 10-07-2012 at 06:30 AM.
  #13  
Old 10-07-2012, 07:18 AM
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Mickhippy Mickhippy is offline
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Ok, watched the vids and heres a couple of points...
That yard is super rutted. Just because a machine can travel/mow at X speed doesnt mean you can do it at that speed. You have to work to the conditions!

Dont ever sit with your back up against the seat back unless its super smooth. The rocking motion of the machine gets transferred into the body. Commonly know as "back slap." I miss the flex seat for precisely that problem!
The part of the vid with your miss's jumping out of the seat was a classic!

The hydros on the SZ are really strong and sensitive. Trying to get up to speed quickly, especially over ruts will for sure make the front end light and or jump. Looked like ( as your going over the ruts,) its making you push/pull the levers. Basically, you know where the rough spots are, slow down over those areas. I have one property in particular that I can go flat out but near the end of the run there is a deep rut caused by a ute. I know I need to slow down or Id get thrown out of the seat!

The deck bounce looks like a problem but I wonder if the springs have been tensioned off enough. Could even try taking them off completely but it will make the deck pretty damned heavy. That said, deck bounce is caused by rough ground and trying to go faster than you should. Youve gone from a much smaller, way less powerful and much slower machine onto arguably the most hard core machine out the. Theres going to be a learning curve! The wheel base of the SZ is different to what your used to and you need to take that into account. The wheels are going to find high/low spots you didnt feel before.
I agree that the deck can be light and bounce but Id rather have that than my knee getting screwed up more, caused by 2 previous model SZ's with cr@p leverage on a heavy deck.

How long have you been mowing that property? I bet if you mowed it on a 30 or 45 degree angle the ride would be sweet or at least MUCH better! Give it a try! You wouldnt be hitting those ruts square on and thats whats causing you most of the problem!

Im just trying to be straight up with you mate. At the end of the day, going off those vids, I dont think its the machine. I think you need to adjust your methods or fill the ruts. Like I said, just because the mower can go 15mph, doesnt mean you can mow at those speeds.
  #14  
Old 10-07-2012, 07:36 AM
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Hey Mick, thanks for your input.

I agree it could look quite terrible that lawn, but the reality is this mower does the same thing on all my lawns at some point, off coarse it will only do it where there are bumps and when there are bumps it does this. I have tried mowing at slow speeds, tried mowing without my back against the back rest, I still get the same thing. I have been mowing on that particular lawn for over 2 yrs now and tried different angles on it but due to the undulations if I mow in any other direction it scalps the lawn fromt he different direction.

Its not specific to the hydros either as I think I have mentioned before that I have tried riing over bumps without my hands on the levers and it makes no difference, I have also tried with just my fingers on levers but doesnt change the ride. So if its the hyrdos influencing the jerkyness, then its not due to my hands... I have had a mower in the past that was jerky on concrete from hyrdos so i know all about that.

I must stress to you, I am not cutting at 15MPH I never do!! On this lawn I would be cutting at less than half speed most of the time, but as I say the jerkynes is there at all speeds!
  #15  
Old 10-07-2012, 07:42 AM
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I could always cut with my back against the backrest with my previous zero turns. in saying that i have tried cutting without my back against the seat rest, but the mower still moves in the same fashion and the movement is still transferred through my body from my ass up.

I have spent 15 hours cutting with this machine, the more hours I spend on it the rougher it feels and the worse its getting.

The videos are a little dramatic, which was deliberate so i could make sure its showing up for film, but seriously i have tried everything on all different lawns & I am only getting more and more re-assured that the mower is not right.
  #16  
Old 10-07-2012, 08:07 AM
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Mickhippy, when your riding over the rough terrain, do you feel the forward to back motion in your upper body? without your back against back rest. Or are you only feeling up and down movement over the ruts?

With the idea of removing the springs from the deck, I have thought of this and would like to try it if its not a big job to remove them, I havnt had a good look at it but is it a matter of just removing the tensioner nuts and then sliding the springs off? I will have a look tomorrow at that.
  #17  
Old 10-07-2012, 08:37 AM
Realslowww Realslowww is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenology View Post
Scag was the other mower I was tossing up on, it was between scag and hustler, chose hustler as it seemed to be the strongest of the two and offered the 37 hp.

Do you recal whether the scag was rough at slower speeds? say 5 MPH. This hustler is rough at all speeds, in fact if you go slow enough you can actually feel the bumps even more than going a little quicker you skip over them a little better. I have put 15hrs on the mower so far and havent been able to find a speed or particular style of mowing which is not overly rough. Im sure if I go 1-3 kph I would not feel the bumps but this is un-realistic for cutting 3-4, 5 acre blocks per day.

pneaumatic tires may be worth a try, they may soak up the uneven terrain before sending the shock through the chassis. But i dont want to throw any money at it, if the dealer are prepared to do this that would be ok, the mechanic tried a set of standard non flex forks on it and didnt think there was a noticable difference in the ride. I would have liked to try myself. But really I dont have time to be sourcing the parts etc needed for this, Its coming into busy season and I just want to get on with work and making money out of the $18000 investment.
The Scag TT is a rough riding mower,the Scag Cheetah is supposed to ride like a Caddy as well as the new Gravely are supposed to ride better than the old Super Z. Here in FL where I am my Super stock you can just give it the sticks and it is plush.

Have you tried lower tire pressure ? for sure try to find some air tires just to try,it only takes 10 minutes or less to swap. You may need flex forks.

You should try and work with the mower,every dealer has told me as far as quality it is in a class by itself and hustler really is good about warranty work.

What other z's have you owned?
  #18  
Old 10-07-2012, 08:38 AM
Realslowww Realslowww is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickhippy View Post
Ok, watched the vids and heres a couple of points...
That yard is super rutted. Just because a machine can travel/mow at X speed doesnt mean you can do it at that speed. You have to work to the conditions!

Dont ever sit with your back up against the seat back unless its super smooth. The rocking motion of the machine gets transferred into the body. Commonly know as "back slap." I miss the flex seat for precisely that problem!
The part of the vid with your miss's jumping out of the seat was a classic!

The hydros on the SZ are really strong and sensitive. Trying to get up to speed quickly, especially over ruts will for sure make the front end light and or jump. Looked like ( as your going over the ruts,) its making you push/pull the levers. Basically, you know where the rough spots are, slow down over those areas. I have one property in particular that I can go flat out but near the end of the run there is a deep rut caused by a ute. I know I need to slow down or Id get thrown out of the seat!

The deck bounce looks like a problem but I wonder if the springs have been tensioned off enough. Could even try taking them off completely but it will make the deck pretty damned heavy. That said, deck bounce is caused by rough ground and trying to go faster than you should. Youve gone from a much smaller, way less powerful and much slower machine onto arguably the most hard core machine out the. Theres going to be a learning curve! The wheel base of the SZ is different to what your used to and you need to take that into account. The wheels are going to find high/low spots you didnt feel before.
I agree that the deck can be light and bounce but Id rather have that than my knee getting screwed up more, caused by 2 previous model SZ's with cr@p leverage on a heavy deck.

How long have you been mowing that property? I bet if you mowed it on a 30 or 45 degree angle the ride would be sweet or at least MUCH better! Give it a try! You wouldnt be hitting those ruts square on and thats whats causing you most of the problem!

Im just trying to be straight up with you mate. At the end of the day, going off those vids, I dont think its the machine. I think you need to adjust your methods or fill the ruts. Like I said, just because the mower can go 15mph, doesnt mean you can mow at those speeds.
Did you get you cutting issues sorted out?
  #19  
Old 10-07-2012, 08:45 AM
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Mickhippy Mickhippy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Realslowww View Post
Did you get you cutting issues sorted out?
Just out of Winter, straight into a drought. Wont know if its sorted until we get some rain. Im sure its better but I dont think its fixed.
  #20  
Old 10-07-2012, 08:48 AM
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greenology greenology is offline
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Hmm so the scag tt is also rough, the cheetah was the model I was considering. Starting to sound like all larger sized machines are rough? I have not used machines larger than 52" before, those machines have all been like driving in a car in comparison to the super Z. I have owned a 2005 dixon and a 2010 dixon, also used a ferris non-suspension, john deere zero turn, the ferris was 61" cut and quite good, only had the up and down movement, no front to back jerking.

I have put tires down to 8 psi in rear, didnt help at all unfortunately.

I would only be losing out by trying to sell this hustler and going for another machine, but at the end of the day it may be necessary for health issues. I cant understand why im the only one with such an issue, my lawns must all have a lot of rough sections compared to others, but in saying that im comparing it all from 4 yrs and 700hrs of zero turn mowing.

The hustler suits me perfectly with the strength, the power, but problem lies with the apparent speed. The biggest reason for me upgrading was to increase my productivity, however the rough ride of this machine has forced me to use it quite slow, therefor I am not getting through lawns any quicker than my old small machine.
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