a hammering case

[Kiril]

Originally Posted by Wet_Boots

Not entirely irrelevant, since you might have room for small PRVs at each toilet supply valve, in order to run them at the lowest possible pressure.

Well, I could do the same with a mini-water hammer arrestor, but then I have to look at the ugliness.

[Wet_Boots]

Originally Posted by Kiril

Well, I could do the same with a mini-water hammer arrestor, but then I have to look at the ugliness.

Why not just throttle down the stop valves?

[1idejim]

Originally Posted by SoCalLandscapeMgmt

just pee outside.... less water use from not having to flush anymore.

Worked for me since forever.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Kiril]

Originally Posted by Wet_Boots

Why not just throttle down the stop valves?

......... noise

[mitchgo]

Design a cool wood box to hide the 1/4" prv / arrestor? Build it, Paint it, stain it and wala.

If my toilet hammered enough to bother me I would replace that heffer with some high end model some built in items to help prevent this.

[Wet_Boots]

Originally Posted by Kiril

......... noise

a few kids will completely change your perspective about noise

[cjohn2000]

Ok, its the end of a long day of blow outs and 2" doublechecks with needlevalves. If I remember right water hammer is related to velocity in the pipe. So if you could reduce the flow, or enlarge the pipe, the water hammer should cease. BTW we had a customer that complained of water hammer and it ended up being his water meter when it got to a certain flow.

[Kiril]

Originally Posted by mitchgo

Design a cool wood box to hide the 1/4" prv / arrestor? Build it, Paint it, stain it and wala.

Floor to ceiling tile, not gonna happen. Clean, simple, and pristine .... and that is the way it will stay.

Originally Posted by mitchgo

If my toilet hammered enough to bother me I would replace that heffer with some high end model some built in items to help prevent this.

I have a cheap temp toilet in right now, but I will be putting my high end Toto in a couple of days, and I doubt it will solve the hammer problem. It is less about bothering me, and more about preventing fitting failure. I went through the house fixing all the lame ass securing the plumber had done, must have missed a section as I can hear it knocking when the toilet valve shuts off. Even put in some overkill thrust blocks on the mainline, and oversized most all the plumbing to mitigate any hammer ..... damnit.

I've had the valve throttled down for about a week, but that is anything but ideal and is noisy as hell. It is also possible there may be some air still in the lines as some areas are still not fully functional even though they have been flushed.

Might try one of those Watts supply hoses to see if it will reduce the hammer.

[mitchgo]

well that sucks that is happening with all that extra effort. I see where you are coming from with the cleanliness of what's already there.

Any kind of possibility to access the supply plumbing elsewhere in the house such as the crawlspace or a different room that you are willing to cut out some drywall?

A few years back at my parents house 2 of the bathrooms sit ontop of eachother on different floors. We completely re-did the upstairs with mostly tile and had a loud valve issue with slight hammer with a very nice sink we installed. Our solution was to gain access to the plumbing in the plumbing down in the bathroom below as that was going to be the next remodel

good luck with that

[Wet_Boots]

don't forget, Hunter makes a toilet fill valve - keep it in the irrigation family