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  #21  
Old 10-18-2012, 09:36 AM
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RhettMan RhettMan is offline
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city water

pressure here at the bib is often 80-100, until a homeowner has to replace an appliance & then has a regulator installed, then lower, but that doesnt affect the system, (i dont think)

run is prob 50 yards, its the highest point on the place.


__
what do you guys think about locating the valves and manually opening, say, 3 or 4 valves at once?
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  #22  
Old 10-18-2012, 10:09 AM
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If every zone is hammering, it might be a job for a slow-closing master valve.
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  #23  
Old 10-18-2012, 10:14 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchgo View Post
Any kind of possibility to access the supply plumbing elsewhere in the house such as the crawlspace or a different room that you are willing to cut out some drywall?
Nope. The knock best I can tell is right near the bathrooms, and the only access to that plumbing is through tile or the roof, both of which would cost a lot of money to fix. It's not a serious knock right now, sounds like the pipe might be moving somewhere in the neighborhood of 1/32-1/16", but nonetheless it is a weak point.
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  #24  
Old 10-18-2012, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
If every zone is hammering, it might be a job for a slow-closing master valve.
Problem here is the zone valves need to close before the master.
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  #25  
Old 10-18-2012, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
Problem here is the zone valves need to close before the master.
Yeah, today's controllers won't likely have what it takes to cure system noise with a master valve.

As for the pipe noise near the toilet, why not try to immobilize the hidden plumbing with some expanding foam insulation?
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  #26  
Old 10-18-2012, 10:52 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
Yeah, today's controllers won't likely have what it takes to cure system noise with a master valve.
Not to mention the zone valves need pressure to close.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
As for the pipe noise near the toilet, why not try to immobilize the hidden plumbing with some expanding foam insulation?
It is already foamed.
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  #27  
Old 10-18-2012, 12:02 PM
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A sprinkler idea that might actually work on the toilet supply, is in the form of the "fluid resistor" in the old Rainbird brass valves, giving a long flow path in a larger diameter waterway.
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  #28  
Old 10-18-2012, 08:26 PM
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Taking into account your anal nature it suprizes me that the water gods have placed you in the barrel on your own home.

Since i know you followed the crews and anything that didn't pass the white glove test was addressed personally, i too am dazed and confused.

Could you have a leak in the main before the house? What about backflow? Is the supply copper or pex?
pex moves a lot, even when strapped firmly.
Could debris be in the line?

Have you placed gauges on spigots and bibs to measure pressure when flushing, done a meter check or purchased a buttload of beer? I have a feeling a lot of brewskies will be consumed before this puzzle is solved.

Best of luck kiril
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  #29  
Old 10-18-2012, 08:39 PM
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Mike Leary Mike Leary is offline
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Taking into account your anal nature it suprizes me that the water gods have placed you in the barrel on your own home.
Could not have happened to a nicer guy.
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  #30  
Old 10-18-2012, 09:06 PM
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what would cause a ESP-SMT to send current even if in the "OFF" dial position,

Unplugging the controller from outlet being the only thing to stop the current?
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