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  #11  
Old 10-26-2012, 08:18 AM
rlitman rlitman is offline
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Location: Long Island
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chips17 View Post
Why are you cutting roots?
Last time I had to do it, I had a tree that had fallen over, and I was trying to remove as much material as possible without stump grinding.

Quote:
Originally Posted by darryl gesner View Post
I use a maddock and a cheap sacrificial axe. I also have an official Boy Scout hatchet I'll use for tighter spaces like when I'm removing shrubs near foundations.
That is one way, but personally, I've grown to like my toes too much to do it that way.
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  #12  
Old 10-26-2012, 08:33 AM
Darryl G Darryl G is offline
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What I like about a maddock is that you can pry with it too. I have a pair of sacrificial loppers that I use for smaller roots as well.
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  #13  
Old 10-26-2012, 08:34 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Location: Central Wisconsin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ron mexico75 View Post
Just use a maddock and some elbow grease. No need to use any power equipment on anything 3 inches.
Definately makes a person wonder...

Jamming saw blades into the dirt for a 3" root, is like using a jackhammer to scrape ice off the sidewalk...
Do LCOs ever stop to think how they look to the neighborhood when they are running a blade into the dirt???

Everywhere I work I have access to a water hose with adequate pressure and volume to wash away the soil around the root and make a clean cut for whatever I use... I seen threads entitled "Why no Respect for the Profession" at various times on these forums and I think this thread revealed some reasons for it...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #14  
Old 10-26-2012, 09:09 AM
recycledsole recycledsole is offline
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ok guys
digging a hole for a 4'X4'X4' french drain FILLED with roots 2"-4" thick. No way was my maddock (pick axe) doing the job. Sorry, i dont have the agression you speak about. Well there are some root saws made by silky- which makes good saws. but i dont think you can sharpen those serrated blades.......

Thanks
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  #15  
Old 10-26-2012, 09:23 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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... maybe I'm mistaken and there is a way of sawing, but, with that volume, you may just want to rent a stump grinder and make a nice clean hole... after 2' down your roots will thin out quickly then a shovel will do just fine...
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*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #16  
Old 10-26-2012, 09:29 AM
rlitman rlitman is offline
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Location: Long Island
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No, not the Silky blades. I'd hate to ruin one of their blades by cutting in dirt.
I have a tree saw blade from Fiskars that they call a "woodzig" blade. It can be really easily sharpened with a round file just like a chainsaw.

That's why I suggested carbide tipped blades. I guess I wasn't specific what kind of blade I was talking about.
The Freud Diablo Demo Demon blades have a tiny piece of carbide brazed to each tooth. They happily cut through plaster and stucco without grinding their teeth off, so I don't see why they would be hurt by dirt.
The only problem is that they're a little fine toothed for green wood. Perhaps someone can break off every other tooth and report back the results . . .
My only concern would be about sucking dirt into the tool's air vents.
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  #17  
Old 10-26-2012, 09:31 AM
ron mexico75's Avatar
ron mexico75 ron mexico75 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by recycledsole View Post
ok guys
digging a hole for a 4'X4'X4' french drain FILLED with roots 2"-4" thick. No way was my maddock (pick axe) doing the job. Sorry, i dont have the agression you speak about. Well there are some root saws made by silky- which makes good saws. but i dont think you can sharpen those serrated blades.......

Thanks
Well in that case no, the maddock wouldn't be good. You just said in your post you were running into roots. No description of how deep, or what you were doing. I think a lot of guys just assumed digging in shrubs or removing old ones.
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  #18  
Old 10-27-2012, 10:35 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Our soils have rock inbedded in the root ball of all sizes... sometimes when digging out stumps, we find stone the size of baseballs so surrounded by roots that you couldn't knock it loose with a hammer...
There is no blade that I would run through that... I'm sticking with stump grinder and shovel under these circumstances...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #19  
Old 10-27-2012, 12:12 PM
cdqat1432 cdqat1432 is offline
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No mention of hydraulics here? So much cheaper and I never get tired.
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  #20  
Old 10-27-2012, 12:43 PM
jlcrox2 jlcrox2 is offline
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If I can't cut it with a heavy steel spade I use a pruning saw.
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