The Green Industry's Resource Center

keith.mcginnis · #21 10-30-2012, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard Martin

Check and make sure the fasteners holding the cylinder to the crankcase haven't come loose. BR400s are famous for that. There are also seals and gaskets in the crankcase, if they are bad then the blower may not start up and even if it does, it won't have any power.

4 Bolts right?
How do I know if the crankcase seals are bad?

Richard Martin · #22 10-30-2012, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keith.mcginnis

4 Bolts right?
How do I know if the crankcase seals are bad?

It might be nuts. It's been a while since I worked on one.

You need to test it. You'll need Stihl Test flange # 1118 850 4200, Sealing plate 0000 855 8105, Carburetor and crankcase tester
1106 850 2905 and Vacuum pump 0000 850 3500.

Or you could just take it to a dealer and let them do it.

keith.mcginnis · #23 10-30-2012, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard Martin

It might be nuts. It's been a while since I worked on one.

You need to test it. You'll need Stihl Test flange # 1118 850 4200, Sealing plate 0000 855 8105, Carburetor and crankcase tester
1106 850 2905 and Vacuum pump 0000 850 3500.

Or you could just take it to a dealer and let them do it.

The 4 Torx Head Bolts were snug, I just checked.

Honestly I probably could replace the crank seals cheaper than the dealer could test it. What do you think?

Oil Seal

Oil Seal #2

rbljack · #24 10-30-2012, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keith.mcginnis

Well I went home last night filled the gas tank up and replaced the air filter. People everywhere say, check the air filter. I find it hard to believe a dirty air filter would keep it from starting, maybe just a loss of power. Anyway, I sprayed a little starting fluid in the carb and sputtered and died. I had maybe thought that the tank wasn't venting so I cracked the cap and continued to pull. I pulled about with choke on, choke off, same results either way.

EXCEPT!, This time when I pulled the plug I noticed it WASNT wet.? So now I'm really confused. Before I try anything else. I'm going to put a small zip tie on the gas line at the carb (air leak) and try again.

JOE, I didn't check for side movement. You mean like crankshaft play? Also, sometimes there is some weird noise when pulling the rope. Not all of the time, but it just sounds like a piece of rust in the muffler to me. Are you saying that just because compression is good that doesn't mean there is enough crankcase vacuum to pull gas through the carb properly?

rbljack,
Yes I replaced the Needle and screen along with the diaphragm. See the link below for a picture of what my kit consisted of.

K10-HD Carb Kit

Keep them coming

Im still thinking carb. Its possible that the previous owner messed with the H and L screws on the carb to try and get it running, and now they are not in the right place, so the engine wont run. You could try resetting those to the initial setting positions and see if that gets you going. Or there is something else wrong in the carb, maybe under the welch plugs, or something clogging the H or L needle screws. replace that dang thing...id guess its around 45 bucks. Here is some info on carbs that may be helpful: http://www.zamacarb.com/pdfs/TechGuide_2007.pdf

keith.mcginnis · #25 10-30-2012, 01:38 PM

When I soaked the carb in Seafoam (about 24hrs), both Needles were removed so I doubt there is an blockage there. I already reset the needles to 1 turn from bottom. Now the welch plug was left in the carb. Are those replaceable?

I'm really thinking about replacing the carb, but now I'm wondering about the crank seals. LOL. I don't know man, I just hate throwing parts at things. You know.

rbljack · #26 10-30-2012, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keith.mcginnis

When I soaked the carb in Seafoam (about 24hrs), both Needles were removed so I doubt there is an blockage there. I already reset the needles to 1 turn from bottom. Now the welch plug was left in the carb. Are those replaceable?

I'm really thinking about replacing the carb, but now I'm wondering about the crank seals. LOL. I don't know man, I just hate throwing parts at things. You know.

I follow what your saying there too man. Its rolling the dice a bit. Try doing a few searches on you tube and you may find something related to your problem also. There is one guy on there I watch a lot of his videos called donyboy73, he has a lot of small engine repair vids. Maybe he has something on those crank seals too.

Richard Martin · #27 10-30-2012, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keith.mcginnis

When I soaked the carb in Seafoam (about 24hrs), both Needles were removed so I doubt there is an blockage there. I already reset the needles to 1 turn from bottom. Now the welch plug was left in the carb. Are those replaceable?

The welch plugs are removable and a full carb kit includes new ones. That said, Stihl doesn't advise removing the welch plugs unless the carb was in really bad shape, with varnish everywhere.

Richard Martin · #28 10-30-2012, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keith.mcginnis

The 4 Torx Head Bolts were snug, I just checked.

Honestly I probably could replace the crank seals cheaper than the dealer could test it. What do you think?

Oil Seal

Oil Seal #2

You can just replace the seals, yes. Don't forget to put a new base gasket in too while you're at it.

keith.mcginnis · #29 10-30-2012, 01:52 PM

I didn't see any varnish at all actually. The carb was very clean. I just noticed the pump looked pretty bad. If you go down to trouble shooting on that Zama carb link the first thing it says under hard/no start is "Engine Air leaks / bolts loose / gaskets damaged"