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  #31  
Old 10-30-2012, 03:04 PM
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Richard Martin Richard Martin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith.mcginnis View Post
According to the Stihl Service manual, I only have to pull the flywheel, and starter cup to replace the seals. What is the base gasket?
Between the cylinder and the crankcase. Part # 4203 029 2300
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  #32  
Old 10-30-2012, 03:10 PM
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It also looks like you'll need gasket #4203 029 0500

You do know those seals install from the inside right? You have to disassemble the engine to get at them.
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  #33  
Old 10-30-2012, 03:26 PM
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Here's a breakdown from my Stihl manual. You'll notice the seals are inside of the crankcase covers. The seals are parts numbers 8 & 9.

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  #34  
Old 10-30-2012, 04:33 PM
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So are you saying #22, #8,9,&10?
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  #35  
Old 10-30-2012, 04:46 PM
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keith.mcginnis keith.mcginnis is offline
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Richard see my attachement. I do see what you are saying, but this manual makes it sound so easy.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf BR400 Seal.pdf (84.2 KB, 15 views)
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  #36  
Old 10-30-2012, 04:52 PM
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Richard Martin Richard Martin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith.mcginnis View Post
Richard see my attachement. I do see what you are saying, but this manual makes it sound so easy.
Mine says the same thing. Go with it.
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  #37  
Old 10-30-2012, 05:09 PM
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keith.mcginnis keith.mcginnis is offline
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Hey man thanks for all of your help!

Btw, nice choice of Browser
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  #38  
Old 10-30-2012, 05:34 PM
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Richard Martin Richard Martin is offline
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Hey man thanks for all of your help!

Btw, nice choice of Browser
No problem.

It's the Windows 8 version. Win 8 is kinda strange. The browsers have 2 completely different looks and work differently depending on whether you're using the Start Menu interface or the Desktop interface. Both IE and Chrome do it.
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  #39  
Old 10-30-2012, 06:28 PM
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You can check the seals without all the special stihl parts. You gotta block off the exh. port by sandwiching a piece of innertube and tin can lid cut to fit between the studs, using the muffler to clamp it. Rubber side to cyl. Do the same for carb., or use the gask. for a template. It sounds involved, but you can cut the tin with scissors, or you can even use something like an old credit card for backing.
Then pressurize with a leakdown tester in plug hole and check for leakage.
No leakdown tester? Just use an easy touch on a rubber tipped blow gun.
Ideally, ya wanna check with a vacuum source also ( any of yer buds got a mighty -vac ) but if ya ain't got one......

If you decide to replace the seals, be very carefull that ya don't booger up the shaft/s, and check for radial play as well as end-play.
And the seals absolutely are replaced from the outside.
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  #40  
Old 10-31-2012, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFish View Post
You can check the seals without all the special stihl parts. You gotta block off the exh. port by sandwiching a piece of innertube and tin can lid cut to fit between the studs, using the muffler to clamp it. Rubber side to cyl. Do the same for carb., or use the gask. for a template. It sounds involved, but you can cut the tin with scissors, or you can even use something like an old credit card for backing.
Then pressurize with a leakdown tester in plug hole and check for leakage.
No leakdown tester? Just use an easy touch on a rubber tipped blow gun.
Ideally, ya wanna check with a vacuum source also ( any of yer buds got a mighty -vac ) but if ya ain't got one......

If you decide to replace the seals, be very carefull that ya don't booger up the shaft/s, and check for radial play as well as end-play.
And the seals absolutely are replaced from the outside.

Thanks for all of that info. What a clever way to test for leaks.. Know any tricks for removing the seals without the special tool. Someone said screw a screw into the seal and pull it out.
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