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  #21  
Old 11-01-2012, 02:53 PM
jud149 jud149 is offline
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Originally Posted by ed2hess View Post
On the recoil side take it off and peak in with a light. On the flywheel side you have to take the clutch housing off and again peak. But if it is spotless then they probably are in place. Take the muffler off and verify that the output port is cleaned out. If I recall I think those carb have another adjustment straight down on top of the carb. It would be plugged so it would have to be removed. It basically moves the jet needle up and down when you turn it. If you choke it partly will it accelerate?
There is no acceleration with partial choking and the muffler and output port are clean. There doesn't appear to be another adj. as I can neither find it on the carb nor in the carb schematic. I'll take a look at the seals this weekend. Could this be an ignition problem? Overall, the unit runs normally re starting and idling and never dies. It just wont accelerate. Thanks again for the help.
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  #22  
Old 11-01-2012, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jud149 View Post
There is no acceleration with partial choking and the muffler and output port are clean. There doesn't appear to be another adj. as I can neither find it on the carb nor in the carb schematic. I'll take a look at the seals this weekend. Could this be an ignition problem? Overall, the unit runs normally re starting and idling and never dies. It just wont accelerate. Thanks again for the help.
That symptom has alway been associated with getting gas. Take the plastic block off that is between the carb and cyclinder and clean out all holes in it and into the cyclinder. You can run a wire thru. Be sure you got good gaskets and they are orientated correct. That hole the I told you to run the wire thru can't be covered by the gasket. Also check to confirm that that spacer has not warped and if it has sand it down flat.

It could be the coil those things are pretty complicated. But I never had one that started a unit yet was bad.
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  #23  
Old 11-03-2012, 11:18 AM
jud149 jud149 is offline
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Originally Posted by ed2hess View Post
That symptom has alway been associated with getting gas. Take the plastic block off that is between the carb and cyclinder and clean out all holes in it and into the cyclinder. You can run a wire thru. Be sure you got good gaskets and they are orientated correct. That hole the I told you to run the wire thru can't be covered by the gasket. Also check to confirm that that spacer has not warped and if it has sand it down flat.

It could be the coil those things are pretty complicated. But I never had one that started a unit yet was bad.
I checked the holes in the block and cylinder and they were clean. I then checked the crank seals and the recoil side was spotless. However, the flywheel side had a small amount of greese/oil residue on it. Could that be the problem?
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  #24  
Old 11-03-2012, 04:42 PM
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I checked the holes in the block and cylinder and they were clean. I then checked the crank seals and the recoil side was spotless. However, the flywheel side had a small amount of greese/oil residue on it. Could that be the problem?
It could be but doesn't seem likely usually the unit won't start if those seals are out. When the unit is idling you can spray quick start behind tha flywheel to see if it affect the engine rpm. If no affect then it is probably okay...
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  #25  
Old 11-06-2012, 10:56 AM
jud149 jud149 is offline
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I sprayed the flywheel seal with starting fluid and the machine either bogged down and then recovered or died so I presume the seal is the problem. My question is, before I replace this seal, is there anything in the area of it that could cause the bogging down or the dieing of the engine when being sprayed with the fluid (thru the straw attachment on the can). I ask because the machine is fairly new from a run time standpoint and the seal looks perfectly in place. Further, my Echo dealer doesn't stock them and says they've only sold 2 this year. The only questionable thing is that there was a little oil/grease residue on the seal when I first looked at it. Again, thanks for the help.

Last edited by jud149; 11-06-2012 at 11:03 AM.
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  #26  
Old 11-06-2012, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jud149 View Post
I sprayed the flywheel seal with starting fluid and the machine either bogged down and then recovered or died so I presume the seal is the problem. My question is, before I replace this seal, is there anything in the area of it that could cause the bogging down or the dieing of the engine when being sprayed with the fluid (thru the straw attachment on the can). I ask because the machine is fairly new from a run time standpoint and the seal looks perfectly in place. Further, my Echo dealer doesn't stock them and says they've only sold 2 this year. The only questionable thing is that there was a little oil/grease residue on the seal when I first looked at it. Again, thanks for the help.
Tough one.....Maybe try putting spray around the carb mounting onto the cyclinder. The spray could have gotten around there. I would agree new units should not have seal out. It is hard to get that flywheel off to get a real look. This is a new carb correct?
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  #27  
Old 11-06-2012, 07:58 PM
jud149 jud149 is offline
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Yep, new carb.
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  #28  
Old 11-06-2012, 08:56 PM
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Yep, new carb.
Well you got to try changing the adjustment needle on that carb. You didn't on the old one correct? Get that dealer to pop those caps off the needles.
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  #29  
Old 11-07-2012, 07:31 AM
jud149 jud149 is offline
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As mentioned, adjusting the carb (H), (there is no L adj.), has no effect. The machine runs identical (no acceleration) with either the old or new carb installed. The old carb has a fixed jet which is non-adj.
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  #30  
Old 11-07-2012, 07:44 PM
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Well I would look further at that seal behind flywheel. The rpm should not be affected by spraying starter fluid into that area.
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