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  #11  
Old 11-08-2012, 10:30 PM
zedosix's Avatar
zedosix zedosix is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Eastern Ontario
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If you are just doing the coping then I agree pouring concrete is overkill and the clear stone will work well. If only 2 inches overhang it should be good. But if you are thinking of continuing brick beyond the edge of the coping then imo concrete will work fine. The way we spec it is sono tubes at 6' apart 4' deep and 4" poured concrete w/wiremesh. This is how we have been doing it and to now I haven't had any call backs.

This is a pool that was done in 08 and what we did was put a smaller coping (8" vs 12") then poured concrete to 30" around 3 sides and 12" on the opposite. Its held well. This pool was built in 1970.
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Last edited by zedosix; 11-08-2012 at 10:35 PM.
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  #12  
Old 11-10-2012, 07:26 PM
Ukisuperstar Ukisuperstar is offline
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Thanks guys for the great insight!

Ended up with some clear stone around the perimeter, if I remember in a few years I will do an update with how it worked
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  #13  
Old 11-18-2012, 04:21 AM
kennymo81 kennymo81 is offline
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Location: Clifton Heights
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best way to lay coping is to chisel down the old beam a little bit and then to form the beam with thin board. I use tap cons to secure the board serrated for radius. Build the beam back up with sand, cement level all around. With the thin board still on set the coping with a straight cement/acrylic slurry. Remove the thin board the next day and point. While pointing fill in any gaps in rear with a pointing mixture and sponge finish. For the rear of the coping attach a layer of foam with masons nails with the removable strip. After you lay the decks pour a rubber joint. Job done.
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