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Old 11-27-2012, 07:28 PM
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ed2hess ed2hess is offline
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Echo Trimmer Carb Needle Adjust & More

This is one of our high use model SRM261T that came into the shop because it wouldn't run. Thought I would post a few pictures of the carb and the needle locations. The carb is basically the same on the new model SRM265T.
I will post more pictures of the tear down later.

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This is the location of the high end needle adjustment. You have to go into here to get that plastic cap out. I have a tool that I will show you later. So when the machine is bogging this is the place to adjust.

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This is the low end needle adjustment location. When you have trouble starting or bad acceleration this is the adjustment needle. Again you have
to get the cap off before you can get this screwdriver into the slot.

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This give you an idea of the size of the tip on the screwdriver. You can have the dealer buy you one from echo or cut a regular driver down to size.

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This is a bad picture of the extractor tool to get those caps off. It basically has a fine screw thread that drills into the plastic plug as you rotate it. Again the dealer gave this one so I don't know where to get them. If you try using a drill bit you run a large chance of damaging the slot on the top of needle so don't do that. Some folks heat up a spring hook then plunge it into the cap and then let it cool and pull it out.
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:56 PM
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Ed. Good info..
I have yet to come across or devise a tool that consistantly removes those plastic caps.
Any chance you can get a closeup pic of the business end of your remover ??

BTW..didn't forget about the piston polishing tips with pics ..I will try to get them tomorrow.
Had to change a DixieChopper wheelmotor that some idiot welded to the frame..what a treat...
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:35 PM
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Unfortunately I am so old that when I push the button to take the picture I move the camera. It is simply a very fine screw thread that bites in the plastic when you turn it and push a little at same time. sorry

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This picture shows most of the parts in a carb. You take it all apart with those 7 screws. Now those two rubber looking device are two pieces that I leave together if I am going to reuse them. These are very simple the only thing is to be sure which way to put the gasket/diaphram back on. The three pieces at the bottom of the picture is what I put in the soaker/vibrator machine..

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This poor picture shows how nicely a pencil cut off can be used to push the screen back into the hole in the carb. That spring can be squirrely and pop off the table and be gone forever.

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I cut a piece of wire to help put the spring back in place when I am about to reassemble. Fingars just won't do it for me that spring can also jump all over.

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This bad picture is trying to show the wear surface that sometimes causes a lack of gas pumping. A dish wears at the place that the tip of the screwdriver is pointing. You get these new in gasket kits.

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In the back plastic part if you rotate the two pieces you will notice how the parts cam apart. There is a plastic ramp so that when you pull on the throttle cable it pulls the needle up and lets in more gas. So I try to put some grease on that cam surface before puttign them back together.

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In this picture you can clearly see the needle. So when you turn that needle with screwdriver CCW it goes up and lets more gas in. Likewise when you pull on the throttle cable the same thing occurs. These units become sensitive to temp as things wear in. That is the reason you need to be able to make these adjustment.

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Old 11-27-2012, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piston slapper View Post
Ed. Good info..
I have yet to come across or devise a tool that consistantly removes those plastic caps.
Any chance you can get a closeup pic of the business end of your remover ??

BTW..didn't forget about the piston polishing tips with pics ..I will try to get them tomorrow.
Had to change a DixieChopper wheelmotor that some idiot welded to the frame..what a treat...
I've mentioned it several times. (as have others) The best way I've found to remove those little buggers is with a small sheet metal screw! I clamp it in a small vice grip and give a few turns and pull the sucker out, consistently!
I have the Echo and Stihl tools, but don't use em'.
The tool is a fine left hand thread, is all.
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:17 PM
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This is my device for cleaning the carb. It has a vibrator and heat. Not sure how good it does but seems okay.

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This shows the carb setting in the bath. I leave it in about 30 minutes but
I think I will leave them sit overnite then run again.

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This the chemical I use in the bath. I am using more and more of this stuff. I just put it in my van to see if I can clean up injectors and egr. A bucket of it cost $65

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This picture show one of the holes that needs to be checked to be sure they are open. See the wire sticking into the head. Just be sure you move the piston up out of the way then put the wire in and it should go all the way. Pencil shows location of the hole in carb....See the slot next to hole where I have the wire. The hole on the carb lines up with the slot not the hole where the wire is

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This shows the unit running at around 7800 wide open after I put it all
back together. It was idling at around 2200. I set idling just so the trimmer head stops.

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This shows the antiseize goop that I put on all the screws used in aluminum. My trainer told me never to untighten screws in aluminum when they are hot.

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Old 11-30-2012, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFish View Post
I've mentioned it several times. (as have others) The best way I've found to remove those little buggers is with a small sheet metal screw! I clamp it in a small vice grip and give a few turns and pull the sucker out, consistently!
I have the Echo and Stihl tools, but don't use em'.
The tool is a fine left hand thread, is all.
Here's what I use :
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I store the screws and screwdriver in a piece of tubing.

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The business end of the Stihl puller
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