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  #41  
Old 11-25-2012, 04:29 PM
Kidmows Kidmows is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawasaki guy View Post
Can anyone give me more info on the MS210 STIHL?
I cant tell you anything about the 210 but I personally have a 250. It is a good little saw. not too much but enough to do small jobs here and there that come up.
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  #42  
Old 12-03-2012, 04:00 PM
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we just got a free lawnboy 2 cycle silver series
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you can find where a brick layer lives by looking at the driveway
Click here for my work thread!
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  #43  
Old 12-03-2012, 07:06 PM
Darryl G Darryl G is offline
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Those things run forever but I never liked the way they set one front wheel back...you can tip the machine and scalp if you're not careful. Good score if you have a use for it.
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  #44  
Old 12-03-2012, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Darryl G View Post
Those things run forever but I never liked the way they set one front wheel back...you can tip the machine and scalp if you're not careful. Good score if you have a use for it.
I noticed the scalping issue when I tested it out on my own lawn. This thing was underwater from sandy, an all it needed was a little bit of starter fluid to get it running. Starts first pull every time!
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Kawasaki KRB650B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawasaki guy View Post
you can find where a brick layer lives by looking at the driveway
Click here for my work thread!
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  #45  
Old 12-03-2012, 08:09 PM
Roger Roger is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darryl G View Post
... but I never liked the way they set one front wheel back...you can tip the machine and scalp if you're not careful. ....
The reason for the staggered wheel arrangement is so that the mower does NOT scalp.

I used one for many years, and found the staggered wheel arrangement the best for a smooth cut. It is better than any standard four-wheel arrangement. It fits the ground contours better than any other mower.
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  #46  
Old 12-05-2012, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger View Post
The reason for the staggered wheel arrangement is so that the mower does NOT scalp.

I used one for many years, and found the staggered wheel arrangement the best for a smooth cut. It is better than any standard four-wheel arrangement. It fits the ground contours better than any other mower.
I was cutting a lawn at 2-2.5" and the thing kept scalping the grass.
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Sheep Garden Landscaping

www.sheepgarden.webs.com
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Sheep-...3750004?ref=hl
Snapper CP218520
Snapper 21351PD new engine
LawnBoy 10227 wi/bagger
Kawasaki KRB650B
Stihl BG55
John Deere
Shindaiwa T242
Shindaiwa RS41
Husqvarna 445 saw
Stihl MS210C
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawasaki guy View Post
you can find where a brick layer lives by looking at the driveway
Click here for my work thread!
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  #47  
Old 12-05-2012, 07:24 PM
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Here is a new fleet picture ( forgot to put in the saws)
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Charlie
Sheep Garden Landscaping

www.sheepgarden.webs.com
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Sheep-...3750004?ref=hl
Snapper CP218520
Snapper 21351PD new engine
LawnBoy 10227 wi/bagger
Kawasaki KRB650B
Stihl BG55
John Deere
Shindaiwa T242
Shindaiwa RS41
Husqvarna 445 saw
Stihl MS210C
Stihl KM90R wi/ trimmer/blower/edger


Quote:
Originally Posted by kawasaki guy View Post
you can find where a brick layer lives by looking at the driveway
Click here for my work thread!
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  #48  
Old 12-05-2012, 07:28 PM
Roger Roger is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawasaki guy View Post
I was cutting a lawn at 2-2.5" and the thing kept scalping the grass.
If you are NJ, your grasses are probably northern cool weather grasses, right?

At 2.0-2.5", that is a very low cutting height for these grasses. What was the cutting height through the season, and how much did the height change for this cut?

You and I probably have similar grasses. I cut at 3.0-3.5 for most of the season, but intend to make last cut at 2.5. 2.0 would look like it was scalped. In fact, sometimes 2.5 will leave a few places that look scalped -- yellow/brown undergrowth is showing. For those I cut at 3.75-4.0 for the season, making the last cut at 2.75 is as low as I can cut for last mowing, and sometimes that is a struggle, and exposes yellow/brown undergrowth.
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  #49  
Old 12-05-2012, 07:34 PM
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kawasaki guy kawasaki guy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger View Post
If you are NJ, your grasses are probably northern cool weather grasses, right?

At 2.0-2.5", that is a very low cutting height for these grasses. What was the cutting height through the season, and how much did the height change for this cut?

You and I probably have similar grasses. I cut at 3.0-3.5 for most of the season, but intend to make last cut at 2.5. 2.0 would look like it was scalped. In fact, sometimes 2.5 will leave a few places that look scalped -- yellow/brown undergrowth is showing. For those I cut at 3.75-4.0 for the season, making the last cut at 2.75 is as low as I can cut for last mowing, and sometimes that is a struggle, and exposes yellow/brown undergrowth.
The grass stayed green all summer when I cut it at that height. This is about the height most of the guys around here cut it at.
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Sheep Garden Landscaping

www.sheepgarden.webs.com
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Sheep-...3750004?ref=hl
Snapper CP218520
Snapper 21351PD new engine
LawnBoy 10227 wi/bagger
Kawasaki KRB650B
Stihl BG55
John Deere
Shindaiwa T242
Shindaiwa RS41
Husqvarna 445 saw
Stihl MS210C
Stihl KM90R wi/ trimmer/blower/edger


Quote:
Originally Posted by kawasaki guy View Post
you can find where a brick layer lives by looking at the driveway
Click here for my work thread!
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  #50  
Old 12-05-2012, 08:13 PM
Kkane97 Kkane97 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawasaki guy View Post
The grass stayed green all summer when I cut it at that height. This is about the height most of the guys around here cut it at.
I find that very hard to beleive, I am near by you and cut at 3.5 , it may not look like a huge difference, but it does, green doesnt always mean healthy ect.
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