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  #41  
Old 12-03-2012, 04:00 PM
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kawasaki guy kawasaki guy is offline
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we just got a free lawnboy 2 cycle silver series
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  #42  
Old 12-03-2012, 07:06 PM
Darryl G Darryl G is offline
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Those things run forever but I never liked the way they set one front wheel back...you can tip the machine and scalp if you're not careful. Good score if you have a use for it.
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  #43  
Old 12-03-2012, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darryl G View Post
Those things run forever but I never liked the way they set one front wheel back...you can tip the machine and scalp if you're not careful. Good score if you have a use for it.
I noticed the scalping issue when I tested it out on my own lawn. This thing was underwater from sandy, an all it needed was a little bit of starter fluid to get it running. Starts first pull every time!
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Snapper: CP218520
21351PD new engine
LawnBoy: 10227 wi/bagger
Scag:SW36 Grass Packer/Kawaski engine
Shindaiwa: T242 LE242 RS41T231X
STIHL: MS210C BG55x2 KM90 trimmer edger blower
Kawasaki:KRB650B KHDS600A
Toro:single stage snow thrower



Click here for my work thread!
The kid who cuts lawns, and does it very well
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  #44  
Old 12-03-2012, 08:09 PM
Roger Roger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darryl G View Post
... but I never liked the way they set one front wheel back...you can tip the machine and scalp if you're not careful. ....
The reason for the staggered wheel arrangement is so that the mower does NOT scalp.

I used one for many years, and found the staggered wheel arrangement the best for a smooth cut. It is better than any standard four-wheel arrangement. It fits the ground contours better than any other mower.
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  #45  
Old 12-05-2012, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger View Post
The reason for the staggered wheel arrangement is so that the mower does NOT scalp.

I used one for many years, and found the staggered wheel arrangement the best for a smooth cut. It is better than any standard four-wheel arrangement. It fits the ground contours better than any other mower.
I was cutting a lawn at 2-2.5" and the thing kept scalping the grass.
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Snapper: CP218520
21351PD new engine
LawnBoy: 10227 wi/bagger
Scag:SW36 Grass Packer/Kawaski engine
Shindaiwa: T242 LE242 RS41T231X
STIHL: MS210C BG55x2 KM90 trimmer edger blower
Kawasaki:KRB650B KHDS600A
Toro:single stage snow thrower



Click here for my work thread!
The kid who cuts lawns, and does it very well
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  #46  
Old 12-05-2012, 07:24 PM
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kawasaki guy kawasaki guy is offline
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Here is a new fleet picture ( forgot to put in the saws)
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Snapper: CP218520
21351PD new engine
LawnBoy: 10227 wi/bagger
Scag:SW36 Grass Packer/Kawaski engine
Shindaiwa: T242 LE242 RS41T231X
STIHL: MS210C BG55x2 KM90 trimmer edger blower
Kawasaki:KRB650B KHDS600A
Toro:single stage snow thrower



Click here for my work thread!
The kid who cuts lawns, and does it very well
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  #47  
Old 12-05-2012, 07:28 PM
Roger Roger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawasaki guy View Post
I was cutting a lawn at 2-2.5" and the thing kept scalping the grass.
If you are NJ, your grasses are probably northern cool weather grasses, right?

At 2.0-2.5", that is a very low cutting height for these grasses. What was the cutting height through the season, and how much did the height change for this cut?

You and I probably have similar grasses. I cut at 3.0-3.5 for most of the season, but intend to make last cut at 2.5. 2.0 would look like it was scalped. In fact, sometimes 2.5 will leave a few places that look scalped -- yellow/brown undergrowth is showing. For those I cut at 3.75-4.0 for the season, making the last cut at 2.75 is as low as I can cut for last mowing, and sometimes that is a struggle, and exposes yellow/brown undergrowth.
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  #48  
Old 12-05-2012, 07:34 PM
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kawasaki guy kawasaki guy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger View Post
If you are NJ, your grasses are probably northern cool weather grasses, right?

At 2.0-2.5", that is a very low cutting height for these grasses. What was the cutting height through the season, and how much did the height change for this cut?

You and I probably have similar grasses. I cut at 3.0-3.5 for most of the season, but intend to make last cut at 2.5. 2.0 would look like it was scalped. In fact, sometimes 2.5 will leave a few places that look scalped -- yellow/brown undergrowth is showing. For those I cut at 3.75-4.0 for the season, making the last cut at 2.75 is as low as I can cut for last mowing, and sometimes that is a struggle, and exposes yellow/brown undergrowth.
The grass stayed green all summer when I cut it at that height. This is about the height most of the guys around here cut it at.
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Charlie

Snapper: CP218520
21351PD new engine
LawnBoy: 10227 wi/bagger
Scag:SW36 Grass Packer/Kawaski engine
Shindaiwa: T242 LE242 RS41T231X
STIHL: MS210C BG55x2 KM90 trimmer edger blower
Kawasaki:KRB650B KHDS600A
Toro:single stage snow thrower



Click here for my work thread!
The kid who cuts lawns, and does it very well
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  #49  
Old 12-05-2012, 08:13 PM
Kkane97 Kkane97 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawasaki guy View Post
The grass stayed green all summer when I cut it at that height. This is about the height most of the guys around here cut it at.
I find that very hard to beleive, I am near by you and cut at 3.5 , it may not look like a huge difference, but it does, green doesnt always mean healthy ect.
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  #50  
Old 12-05-2012, 10:58 PM
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Exmarkboy13 Exmarkboy13 is offline
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I have to agree. We cut at 3.5 to 4.0 and drop it down to 1.5-2.0 for the last cut. Depends on the grass though (Kentucky blue, tall fescue, rye grass mix)
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