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  #1  
Old 12-07-2012, 01:03 PM
zackvbra zackvbra is offline
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how to make a buffer zone

I do lawn care and landscaping for a living, but I do not spray because I am not licensed to, therefore I dont know much about herbicides.

I am doing some work at my own home. Trying to get rid of the weeds out of my landscape beds using herbicides, but I dont want to risk it killing the desirables.

I have read about "buffer zones" around desirable plants when spraying herbicides, to prevent it from penetrating the desirables and killing them.

My question is, what exactly are these buffer zones and how to I apply/install them?

and btw, I am going to be applying these herbicides biweekly until I get the weeds under control. not sure if that makes a difference or not, just wanted to let yall know that just in case it matters.

Thanks,
Zack
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Last edited by zackvbra; 12-07-2012 at 01:10 PM.
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  #2  
Old 12-07-2012, 05:42 PM
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fl-landscapes fl-landscapes is offline
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So you don't have a clue what chemical to apply but you know for sure whatever it is your going to apply it bi-weekly???? Wowser



Quote:
Originally Posted by zackvbra View Post
I do lawn care and landscaping for a living, but I do not spray because I am not licensed to, therefore I dont know much about herbicides.

I am doing some work at my own home. Trying to get rid of the weeds out of my landscape beds using herbicides, but I dont want to risk it killing the desirables.

I have read about "buffer zones" around desirable plants when spraying herbicides, to prevent it from penetrating the desirables and killing them.

My question is, what exactly are these buffer zones and how to I apply/install them?

and btw, I am going to be applying these herbicides biweekly until I get the weeds under control. not sure if that makes a difference or not, just wanted to let yall know that just in case it matters.

Thanks,
Zack
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  #3  
Old 12-07-2012, 10:28 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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Depends on the herbicide--root activity--pre emergent--post emergent--
non-selective--grass herbicide?
Risky--if you have minimal experience. Perhaps cover the good shrubs with a plastic tarp to protect them while you spray.
Some situations require repeated hand removal.
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:15 PM
zackvbra zackvbra is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
Depends on the herbicide--root activity--pre emergent--post emergent--
non-selective--grass herbicide?
Risky--if you have minimal experience. Perhaps cover the good shrubs with a plastic tarp to protect them while you spray.
Some situations require repeated hand removal.
Im going to use a triclopyr and fluroxypier premix, which is a selective post emergent. I know what chemical to use, I know how to read labels and research and talk to the guys at my garden store, but I was just wanting to know what a buffer could be, because the guys at the garden store where i buy everything didnt know, the only spraying they are experienced with is spraying lawns, not in landscape beds.

but i have a large area i need sprayed, with 12 desirable shrubs, otherwise i would handpull the weeds. these two beds are at the edges of my property and they are about 6k sq ft in all

So would you say i could tie a plastic bag or something around the desirables while i spray? because its not a large line up of shrubs, they are pretty far apart.
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  #5  
Old 12-08-2012, 12:17 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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What do you need to kill? If I remember rightly, that combination of herbicides is normally used for brush control in pastures and fencelines.
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  #6  
Old 12-08-2012, 08:03 PM
zackvbra zackvbra is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
What do you need to kill? If I remember rightly, that combination of herbicides is normally used for brush control in pastures and fencelines.
Its a bunch of thorny vines grown up, and a bunch of broad leaf weeds. not sure what kind of weeds, i am no weed identifier expert.

i used to have grass there, but it didnt grow good even after sodding because of all the pine and oak trees shading and roots choking the grass out all along the edges of my property, so i just decided it would be easier and look better to just lay pine straw down and make my property edges two big beds, since there is already about 25 or 30 pine trees in those areas, and plant a few little low maintenance shrubs.

I guess i should have spent a little money and bought some weedblocker landscape mesh and put it down in the first place, because the weeds are thriving, and its pretty atrocious.

Would have taken care of it weeks ago, but its hard for me to spend my sunday off doing yard work when all i do all week is yard work and more yard work and even more yard work.
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-36" Gravely Walkbehind, 21" exmark push mower
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  #7  
Old 12-09-2012, 02:32 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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Ok, understood. Triclopyr is my first choice for killing vining vegetation. I have seen situations where glyphosate was repeatedly applied in an attempt to kill vegetation not susceptible and more collateral damage was caused.

Only other bit of advice I could give you is to watch your application rates. Both fluroxypyr and triclopyr will kill via root uptake. That normally happens when gross overdosages are applied. If the product says 1 qt per acre, that does not mean to apply 1 oz per gallon and 4 gallons of that mix per 1000 sq ft.
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  #8  
Old 12-09-2012, 09:04 AM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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Sounds like a job for Roundup. (After you protect the good plants with tarps.)(Don't drag the tarps across the grass.)
I hope thorny vines does not include Canada thistle and poison ivy.
One important factor--do the vines spread by underground roots or rhizomes? If so, then the problem is a lot more difficult. It is important in beds to never let the weeds get over 6 inches tall. Beyond that and they will store food in the roots; the return growback is quicker.
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