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  #21  
Old 12-10-2012, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcg View Post
OK, serious question, are you telling me that the .19 - .21 amps I get for solenoids with my Fluke clamp meter is wrong?
No, i am not saying that. Your reading might be right on for the wire/voltage drop/resistance/temp/inrush holding requirements of the system. You use RB valves and 16/18 ga wire?
Quote:
I use it sometimes with systems where a zone is err'ing out the controller but when I arrive it ohms fine and a reset gets it running again. Some of those solenoids need to get warm before they go short and I do see a slightly higher amp reading on them, which causes me to go ahead and replace them.
As the heat goes up, the resistance goes down.
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"Good" solenoids always seem to be around .19 - .21 amps but I'm just using a regular Fluke meter, not a leakage meter...
5-6 volt amps, depends on the solenoid specs.

I have a pro-93 LCM and it reads good, i have an excel clamp that i have to wrap the wires. Before i blew my FLUKE 5/600 to the next world i had to wrap the forks to get an accurate measurement.

I never had any luck with a standard meter connected in series.

Hope that the above didn't confuse the question
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  #22  
Old 12-10-2012, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
does the solenoid current readings without needing any slack wire to make extra turns with,
You use a jump wire in series with the common. That gives you the slack for either style of meter.
All zones are measured via the common.
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  #23  
Old 12-10-2012, 08:55 PM
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Again, why disconnect any wires when you don't have to? A proper clamparound saves you that time.
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  #24  
Old 12-10-2012, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed2hess View Post
I am not into measuring current on selenoids but I do use meter for measuring resistance at the controller. And for that I need a good clamp on device.....sears one is poor. I want a hard wire running from the plug on the meter to the clamp on with no slip fit devices in between. I dont want to be guessing whether their is a open in my meter lead goofing up my measurements.
There should be no guesswork, they either work or they don't.

With the exception of low voltage lighting guys i prolly use DMMs as much if not more than the average bear and i don't take issue with removable leads or plugin adapters.

I did recently look at a buddies meter, he thought it was broke. The leads were in the wrong ports.
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  #25  
Old 12-10-2012, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
Again, why disconnect any wires when you don't have to? A proper clamparound saves you that time.
You always DISCONNECT THE COMMON when measuring resistance at the controller, you silly...

Testing order is Voltage - Resistance - Amperage
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  #26  
Old 12-10-2012, 09:20 PM
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You can get effective resistance readings with all the zone wiring still in place, because the controller triacs won't pass through the minute amount of voltage emanating from an ohmmeter of the modern solid-state variety.

And it's still worth having a clamparound that leaves all the wiring in place - saves time.
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  #27  
Old 12-10-2012, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
You can get effective resistance readings with all the zone wiring still in place, because the controller triacs won't pass through the minute amount of voltage emanating from an ohmmeter of the modern solid-state variety.

And it's still worth having a clamparound that leaves all the wiring in place - saves time.
You always DISCONNECT THE COMMON shoes.

It is bad juju not to. Since i need the valve and the common free to connect the transmitter to for locating anyway it's just smart.

I may not fully test every clock but i always follow the same basic proceedure.

I am sure that with your gazillion thread posts that yov aren't so swamped that you can't loosen 1 screw.

Sorry shoes, that was mean.

Btw, most controllers don't have enough room to center the wire.
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  #28  
Old 12-10-2012, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
You can get effective resistance readings with all the zone wiring still in place, because the controller triacs won't pass through the minute amount of voltage emanating from an ohmmeter of the modern solid-state variety.

And it's still worth having a clamparound that leaves all the wiring in place - saves time.
Let me add this, i only remove the common when performing Voltage - Resistance - Amperage tests. i install the jumper when i remove the common.
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  #29  
Old 12-10-2012, 10:21 PM
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There are meters and there are meters. A techie friend showed off an early digital multimeter that was built to be immune to any electrical mistreatment. Set it to resistance and stick the probe ends into a wall socket, you get a reading and no damage done. Test the resistance of the phone line, with its 48 volts when not in use, and get a reading of exactly 600 ohms, just like the phone company wants it to be.


Of course, that was light years beyond a $2.99 Harbor Freight multimeter that dies if you look at it funny
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  #30  
Old 12-10-2012, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1idejim
No, i am not saying that. Your reading might be right on for the wire/voltage drop/resistance/temp/inrush holding requirements of the system. You use RB valves and 16/18 ga wire?
I'm almost entirely maintenance and repair, installed 5 systems in the last 3 years, so it's whatever is there. Typically it's either RB DV100 or Hunter SRV valves and 18 ga wire.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1idejim View Post
As the heat goes up, the resistance goes down.
Right, got that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1idejim
5-6 volt amps, depends on the solenoid specs.

I have a pro-93 LCM and it reads good, i have an excel clamp that i have to wrap the wires. Before i blew my FLUKE 5/600 to the next world i had to wrap the forks to get an accurate measurement.

I never had any luck with a standard meter connected in series.

Hope that the above didn't confuse the question
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No, that helps. So my Fluke is reading correctly.

BTW, I prefer the Greenlee DM20 but killed my last 2. I've got a couple on order with my distributor but for some reason they aren't here yet. The Flukes are great but I do have a few issues with them for the kind of use I have.

1 - They don't like to measure resistance when there's current on the wire (i.e. POOF). The Greenlee will just beep at you and you can carry on with your day.

2 - They really aren't rugged enough for this kind of work. As much as they cost, I feel terrible getting them muddy and know they can't handle being wet.

3 - I prefer a manual ranging resistance setting. I can get it with the Fluke but there are too many steps involved. On the Greenlee, I set it to 200 Ohms and get on with it.

I don't really care for the little lead clamps, sure its a hassle sometimes but I prefer to just touch the leads to what I'm testing.
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