First Fert. and Spray Program - Help

[Smallaxe]

Originally Posted by RigglePLC

Remember dandelions will be at their maximum yellow bloom about the date of the first mowing. Veronica also if you have it in your area. Chickweed and wild garlic also prominent. Violets, creeping charlie, and Oxalis appear a few weeks later--about when the temp first hits 80.
When the temps start hitting about 85 (if at all), then spurge, mallow, purslane, crabgrass and other summer annuals appear, (plus nutsedge).
When temps cool off in the fall--I estimate about highs of 65--then new dandelions, veronica, chickweed, henbit and the winter annuals appear.

I never did much spot spraying. It takes almost as much time as blanket spraying--and there is always the chance that you will not see small weeds, and thereby miss them.

Sounds like you were blessed with some wonderful lawns... That's why I can only do total care on the lawns and gardens I took on...
But you're right... if there are so many weeds all the time you may never get them choked out with turf...

I hate those kind of lawns though,,, because they're so muddy after a rain storm...

[DA Quality Lawn & YS]

OP - your seasonal start date is of course dictated by weather, soil, and turf conditions. For instance in 2011 I didn't start first round until late April. Last year, I started late March. That is a whole month difference and it changes your WHOLE program and way of doing things year by year. What I am saying is, you have to learn to adapt your fixed program to whats going on - in no way will it be rigid.

Also, was going to say that in any season, late May for a pre app is too late (I am a far north applicator as well). You will want to push that up some, and in some early spring seasons, you may be spraying for broadleafs at the same time. Also, use prodiamine not Dimension and if you use Dimension, step up your % active ingredient .10 to me is just like peeing for crabgrass prevention.

You'll want to bump up your Rd's 2 and 3 accordingly.

Also, I would add a 5th round, a late fall straight fert spot spray app.

[americanlawn]

Late May may not be too late for most summer annuals. All depends upon what weeds/rainfall/temps/cultural practices/hardiness zone, etc. Sure -- you're gunna miss out on knotweed control, but you easilly can kill knotweed later on with esters.

We offer pre-emergent as late as mid July for new customers that need it. One example: New sod laid in early July = tons of foxtail grass "unless a pre-emergent is applied" a.s.a.p.

Late apps of Pre can prevent crabgrass, purslane, foxtail, spurge, and more. Just sayin'

[jds912]

watch your soil temp not necassarily dates. makes a world of difference.

[Smallaxe]

Just remember that pre-M is a root inhibitor... on new sod it will also inhibit the root development of the sod roots as well... then the viscious cycle begins...

More water, becuz the roots are crippled, grass dries quickly, so more water, then you have CG popping up all over the place becuz you put down so much water that the seed was washed free of any pre-m in its area...

Clean sod should not have weeds in it, under normal growing conditions, but flood waters will make seeds germinate that normally would not... pre-m(root inhibitor) is never a good idea under well after the sod is established...

[turfmd101]

Why use Pre-m. Soil temp is the the bullet of any seed germinating but a bullet needs the trigger to be pulled which is water. If you have mature turf don't let the trigger get pulled...makes the bullet useless. If your season is over wet and water is an issue...the trigger no one controls...mature turf, even under this environmental condition should have little problems with weed issues if mowed with a certain standard of care. Cause and effect. Newton.
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[Smallaxe]

Originally Posted by turfmd101

Why use Pre-m. Soil temp is the the bullet of any seed germinating but a bullet needs the trigger to be pulled which is water. If you have mature turf don't let the trigger get pulled...makes the bullet useless. If your season is over wet and water is an issue...the trigger no one controls...mature turf, even under this environmental condition should have little problems with weed issues if mowed with a certain standard of care. Cause and effect. Newton.
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Great Point,
And may I add that growing grass to its potential, is always better than killing weeds with a turf weakening herbicide...

[DA Quality Lawn & YS]

Around here, only irrigated lawns are thick enough to withstand weed pressure, esp. with this hot, dry crud weather we have had last two years. Pre's and herbs are essential on lower end lawns, esp. those that do not want to put the money into overseeding, aerating, topdress, etc.

[Smallaxe]

Originally Posted by DA Quality Lawn & YS

Around here, only irrigated lawns are thick enough to withstand weed pressure, esp. with this hot, dry crud weather we have had last two years. Pre's and herbs are essential on lower end lawns, esp. those that do not want to put the money into overseeding, aerating, topdress, etc.

That is understood... the only lawns that anyone can make claims about are lawns that have water control...

[turfmd101]

Originally Posted by Smallaxe

That is understood... the only lawns that anyone can make claims about are lawns that have water control...

Axe, please view my post in HOA. Your respectful opinion appreciated.
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