Register free!
Search
 
     

Click for Weather
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 01-01-2013, 06:47 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,827
Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
Remember dandelions will be at their maximum yellow bloom about the date of the first mowing. Veronica also if you have it in your area. Chickweed and wild garlic also prominent. Violets, creeping charlie, and Oxalis appear a few weeks later--about when the temp first hits 80.
When the temps start hitting about 85 (if at all), then spurge, mallow, purslane, crabgrass and other summer annuals appear, (plus nutsedge).
When temps cool off in the fall--I estimate about highs of 65--then new dandelions, veronica, chickweed, henbit and the winter annuals appear.

I never did much spot spraying. It takes almost as much time as blanket spraying--and there is always the chance that you will not see small weeds, and thereby miss them.
Sounds like you were blessed with some wonderful lawns... That's why I can only do total care on the lawns and gardens I took on...
But you're right... if there are so many weeds all the time you may never get them choked out with turf...

I hate those kind of lawns though,,, because they're so muddy after a rain storm...
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-06-2013, 02:44 PM
DA Quality Lawn & YS's Avatar
DA Quality Lawn & YS DA Quality Lawn & YS is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 7,859
OP - your seasonal start date is of course dictated by weather, soil, and turf conditions. For instance in 2011 I didn't start first round until late April. Last year, I started late March. That is a whole month difference and it changes your WHOLE program and way of doing things year by year. What I am saying is, you have to learn to adapt your fixed program to whats going on - in no way will it be rigid.

Also, was going to say that in any season, late May for a pre app is too late (I am a far north applicator as well). You will want to push that up some, and in some early spring seasons, you may be spraying for broadleafs at the same time. Also, use prodiamine not Dimension and if you use Dimension, step up your % active ingredient .10 to me is just like peeing for crabgrass prevention.

You'll want to bump up your Rd's 2 and 3 accordingly.

Also, I would add a 5th round, a late fall straight fert spot spray app.
__________________
7x14 Stealth SE Enclosed with 48" side ramp
08 Toro Z400 48" deck, 21HP Kaw with EZ Vac twin bag
09 Exmark Turf Tracer HP 36"
21" Toro SR4 Super Recycler
Stihl KM90 Kombi w/ straight shaft trimmer & tiller heads
Husqvarna 125B Blower
PG Magnum
Turfco XT5 Aerator
Turfco LS-22 Overseeder
EcoLawn 200 Applicator

I can do all things through Him who gives me strength.
Philippians 4:13
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-06-2013, 04:52 PM
americanlawn's Avatar
americanlawn americanlawn is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: midwest
Posts: 5,613
Late May may not be too late for most summer annuals. All depends upon what weeds/rainfall/temps/cultural practices/hardiness zone, etc. Sure -- you're gunna miss out on knotweed control, but you easilly can kill knotweed later on with esters.

We offer pre-emergent as late as mid July for new customers that need it. One example: New sod laid in early July = tons of foxtail grass "unless a pre-emergent is applied" a.s.a.p.

Late apps of Pre can prevent crabgrass, purslane, foxtail, spurge, and more. Just sayin'
__________________
Proud subscriber of TURF Magazine. (thanks Ron)
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-11-2013, 10:30 PM
jds912 jds912 is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: coastal ga.
Posts: 62
watch your soil temp not necassarily dates. makes a world of difference.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-12-2013, 06:35 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,827
Just remember that pre-M is a root inhibitor... on new sod it will also inhibit the root development of the sod roots as well... then the viscious cycle begins...

More water, becuz the roots are crippled, grass dries quickly, so more water, then you have CG popping up all over the place becuz you put down so much water that the seed was washed free of any pre-m in its area...

Clean sod should not have weeds in it, under normal growing conditions, but flood waters will make seeds germinate that normally would not... pre-m(root inhibitor) is never a good idea under well after the sod is established...
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 01-13-2013, 12:49 AM
turfmd101 turfmd101 is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: orlando fl
Posts: 482
Why use Pre-m. Soil temp is the the bullet of any seed germinating but a bullet needs the trigger to be pulled which is water. If you have mature turf don't let the trigger get pulled...makes the bullet useless. If your season is over wet and water is an issue...the trigger no one controls...mature turf, even under this environmental condition should have little problems with weed issues if mowed with a certain standard of care. Cause and effect. Newton.
Posted via Mobile Device
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 01-13-2013, 08:46 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,827
Quote:
Originally Posted by turfmd101 View Post
Why use Pre-m. Soil temp is the the bullet of any seed germinating but a bullet needs the trigger to be pulled which is water. If you have mature turf don't let the trigger get pulled...makes the bullet useless. If your season is over wet and water is an issue...the trigger no one controls...mature turf, even under this environmental condition should have little problems with weed issues if mowed with a certain standard of care. Cause and effect. Newton.
Posted via Mobile Device
Great Point,
And may I add that growing grass to its potential, is always better than killing weeds with a turf weakening herbicide...
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 01-15-2013, 02:53 PM
DA Quality Lawn & YS's Avatar
DA Quality Lawn & YS DA Quality Lawn & YS is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 7,859
Around here, only irrigated lawns are thick enough to withstand weed pressure, esp. with this hot, dry crud weather we have had last two years. Pre's and herbs are essential on lower end lawns, esp. those that do not want to put the money into overseeding, aerating, topdress, etc.
__________________
7x14 Stealth SE Enclosed with 48" side ramp
08 Toro Z400 48" deck, 21HP Kaw with EZ Vac twin bag
09 Exmark Turf Tracer HP 36"
21" Toro SR4 Super Recycler
Stihl KM90 Kombi w/ straight shaft trimmer & tiller heads
Husqvarna 125B Blower
PG Magnum
Turfco XT5 Aerator
Turfco LS-22 Overseeder
EcoLawn 200 Applicator

I can do all things through Him who gives me strength.
Philippians 4:13
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 01-16-2013, 10:13 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,827
Quote:
Originally Posted by DA Quality Lawn & YS View Post
Around here, only irrigated lawns are thick enough to withstand weed pressure, esp. with this hot, dry crud weather we have had last two years. Pre's and herbs are essential on lower end lawns, esp. those that do not want to put the money into overseeding, aerating, topdress, etc.
That is understood... the only lawns that anyone can make claims about are lawns that have water control...
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 01-16-2013, 10:31 AM
turfmd101 turfmd101 is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: orlando fl
Posts: 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
That is understood... the only lawns that anyone can make claims about are lawns that have water control...
Axe, please view my post in HOA. Your respectful opinion appreciated.
Posted via Mobile Device
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1998 - 2012, LawnSite.comô - Moose River Media
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:13 PM.

Page generated in 0.07913 seconds with 9 queries