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#11
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Oil change intervals can be as short as 3,000 miles or as long as 15,000 miles on some new cars. Even the oil manufacturers recommend that you follow the oil and filter change frequencies shown in your owner's manual. So you should also do in your mower manual.
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G & G Lawn Care Mowers: Toro GS 36" Toro TurfMaster Cub Cadet Z-Force 48" Cub Cadet 98H & 999ES Honda 216TDA
Blowers:Stihl BR 550 Stihl BR 380 Stihl BR 200Trimmers: Stihl FS 110 Stihl FS 90 Echo SRM 210 Edgers: Stihl FC 90&75 Echo PE 200 Echo BRD 280 Pole Saw: Stihl HT 75 Hedge Trimmer: Stihl HL 45 HS 45 |
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#12
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Oil is not changed because it is dirty. Either the additive package is depleted or it is failing from thermal breakdown.
Posted via Mobile Device Last edited by Patriot Services; 01-22-2013 at 01:18 PM. |
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#13
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Extended oil changes in cars is real, but you have to be cautious about them. In relaity you can, but you really need to get your oil tested, an oil analysis, to be SURE that it's still working. In a car or light truck it's not really that cost effective when you are talking about 5 or 6 quarts of oil. And MOST newer vehicles do NOT need the oil changed every 3 months or 3,000 miles like has been ingrained in everyones heads for decades. Even with conventional oil most manufacturers are calling for 4 to 7 thousand miles between changes. Look at the recommendations from your vehicle mfg. before assuming. Semis and big engines like that can really benifit from extend oil change intervals, but they are also using bypass filtration systems and oil analysis. MANY are going a million miles on the same oil with just topping off periodically. It's true... |
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#14
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Next up will be the numnutz that advocate just changing the filter. Nothing as dumb as running dirty oil through a clean filter and expecting it clean the oil.
Posted via Mobile Device |
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#15
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Posted via Mobile Device |
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#16
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The thing that gets me is they also say, However to allow piston rings to properly seat a new or rebuilt engine should be operated for at least 50hrs using standard petroleum based oil before changing to a synthetic. Now I'd like you to explain to me why I should change from a regular petroleum base oil to a synthetic when a synthetic isn't good enough to use to break my engine in properly. Pardon me that just doesn't make good sense. I believe the guy in the video, there are no benefits for me to run the synthetic and it's sure not cost effective because I do my oil and oil filter changes every 50 hours.
__________________
G & G Lawn Care Mowers: Toro GS 36" Toro TurfMaster Cub Cadet Z-Force 48" Cub Cadet 98H & 999ES Honda 216TDA
Blowers:Stihl BR 550 Stihl BR 380 Stihl BR 200Trimmers: Stihl FS 110 Stihl FS 90 Echo SRM 210 Edgers: Stihl FC 90&75 Echo PE 200 Echo BRD 280 Pole Saw: Stihl HT 75 Hedge Trimmer: Stihl HL 45 HS 45 |
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#17
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The reason you need conventional oil to "break in" your engine before running synthetic is the exact reason why running conventional oil all the time is probably not in your best interest. It ALLOWS wear, meaning it's not providing full friction protection and is allowing small amounts of material to be worn away in your engine! good synthetic oils are so good that they won't allow an engine to wear in as needed to properly seat the rings, which will over time cause them to blow by causing lower power output and oil consumption.
No one is saying to run longer than spec on the oil changes on small engines, if they did they are wrong. I change mine every 100 hours, using amsoil air cooled formula oil. I've never seen the need to change oil every 50 hours in a machine that has a filter, even with conventional oil. I also change the filter with EVERY oil change, even though the engine mfg usually recommends changing the filter every other time. Which makes no sense to me... |
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#18
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Back in the day before computerized micro tolerances. Engines did need to break in and wear mate a bit. That is not true anymore with modern engines and machining.
Posted via Mobile Device |
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#19
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Posted via Mobile Device |
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#20
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