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  #11  
Old 01-20-2013, 03:28 PM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is offline
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the Ford (or Mueller or MacDonald) waterworks compression tee is a good thing to have anyway
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  #12  
Old 01-21-2013, 12:19 PM
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OKSooner OKSooner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koster_irrigation View Post
I would replace the entire line to your house from the meter with SCH40 PVC or Copper Type K. Check local codes and depth requirements. You can do the work yourself since it is your property. You still probably will need to pull permits.

Also you need to check local codes to make sure you dont need a separate meter for your irrigation that you want to install. Most areas wont allow you to tie in to your "house meter"

If it is allowed and you want to go ahead and do it;
You can rent pipe die threaders that is a hand held ratcheting type threader.
You will have to cut a section of the metal pipe out and thread both ends and then install the T and rejoin the ends together. Be sure to install a QUALITY shut off valve underground before the backflow preventer for service of the irrigation system.

I guess the PITFALL or WARNING would be that if the steel pipe has substantially aged it could be brittle and unable to thread once you cut your section out to make the T. So thats why im recommending you replace the entire line that feeds your house. Also galvanized piping collects corrosion on the inside of the pipe and gets worse over time, eventually stopping the water flow.

ALSO, if you decide to go ahead and replace the ENTIRE line, I would have someone with a camera run down your sewer line from your house to the street and check that pipe integrity as well. It would be convienent to replace both lines at once, since they were probably installed in the same ditch up to your house.
How 'bout pex?
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  #13  
Old 01-21-2013, 03:50 PM
paolaken paolaken is offline
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i don't mess with galvy pipe.
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  #14  
Old 01-21-2013, 04:22 PM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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You need to replace that waterline first, i can't believe you got 80 year's out of it. That older galvanized had thicker wall's or it would have failed before now. That will be a good learning experience and it need's to be done, it's not that big of a deal. Forget Pex for a mainline, that stuff is meant to go inside wall's, it can't take being buried. You need to use copper or that black plastic tubing that plumber's use. Use something that can take a rock next to it. Your state's plumbing code will be more specific.
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  #15  
Old 01-21-2013, 10:45 PM
bcg bcg is online now
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I agree with the others, replace the water line. While your at it, re-plumb the house. If the service line is galvanized, the house plumbing probably is to and by now the ID on it is probably 1/4" or less. You replace all that crap and you'll be amazed at the improved flow rates and pressure in the house.
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  #16  
Old 01-22-2013, 10:07 PM
koster_irrigation koster_irrigation is offline
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Nothing wrong with pex......
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  #17  
Old 01-23-2013, 01:12 AM
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cjohn2000 cjohn2000 is offline
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Just my experience. We installed a system at a house built in WWII and tied into the original 3/4" galv. water line. The most important part to tying into galv. is to file / chip the outside and find a nice true area to cut out to put a compression tee onto and not disturb any threaded joint on the line. In our city code requires brass from the tie in to the main shutoff. I personally wont settle for anything less than a curbstop. As far as "that black pipe" we usually do hydrant tees, but I have done compression tees with stiffeners, and i'm not talking about those cheap 3/4" x 1" tees they sell at Ewing, I use either Ford or Mcdonald MIPT x compression and you can get them for copper tubing, HDPE, etc.
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