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  #41  
Old 01-20-2013, 03:51 PM
turfmd101 turfmd101 is offline
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All that torn foil age will push off and it will look ugly. Foliage comes and foliage goes but the plant continues to grow. Understand, saving your ugly foliage will not save your plant. Still haven't seen it. If your new flush of foliage can be cut cleaner so the tissue can cure and in this continues. Your turf will hold foliage longer have less depleation of foliage become denser and stop looking like its always dying. This change in proper mowing sharpness will be the FIRST thing in new root development. A happily, healthy growing foliage system will drive the turfs desire for a healthy root system. With the new and improved growth in the foliage the plant will start repair structuring its root system to aid in the welcomed new plant growths success. " Its alive".
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  #42  
Old 01-21-2013, 12:55 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Looks like you're looking straight down at the dirt right there...
Grab a stick and dig down a few inches... see if you can get a sense of moisture in the soil...
I am always amazed by how difficult people seem to think it is to report on soil moisture...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #43  
Old 01-27-2013, 03:09 PM
mss222 mss222 is offline
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Okay guys had 2 pest companies come out, one said they treat diseases, insect, and weeds and also fertilize every other month for $60 each time. The other recommended an initial treatment for $100 and then a follow up next week for $100 and then a monthly plan of $55. Over $700 a yr for a small front lawn is ridiculous.

Both said I was watering too much that during the winter/spring time I should be watering once a week. They said the dollar weed is from too much water. They said all the browning is from brown patch fungus. I asked both if they could get the brown patch to come back, they both said they the fungicide they use have some type of chemical in it that turns the grass greener. Don't know how true that is.

At this point for the issues do I really need a pest company? When I used Scott's brown patch control it seemed to stop any of the brown patch spreading. Is there something I can buy to shoot on the dollar weed to kill it myself?

Also, my main concern is where all of the brown patch is to have that area come back growing and green. Is there any product I can buy that will help achieve this? Should I let my grass grow long for a while before the next cut? The pest guys also said the lawn guys cut the grass too short causing a lot of the dying.


The MAIN QUESTION is:

Is it worth paying a pesticide company to "attempt" to fix the lawn by killing the dollar weeds and "attempting" to get the brown patch growing and green again?

Or is there something I can buy locally and do?

Realistically, can I revive the brown patch areas and if so how?

Thank you everyone you have been very very helpful so far!
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  #44  
Old 01-27-2013, 03:15 PM
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Patriot Services Patriot Services is offline
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IMHO you will spend as much on DIY products with less results than going with a pro. The first one sound reasonable. The only way to repair the damaged areas is plug or sod for instant repair or encourage lateral growth with fert and time.
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  #45  
Old 01-27-2013, 03:31 PM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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All this talk about irrigation scheduling, but nary a mention of proper methodology. Your basic water requirements on a per hydrozone (or valve zone) basis assuming no rain inputs, soil moisture content is at field capacity to start with and soil is homogeneous throughout root zone (both current and potential). A proper audit needs to be conducted.

Interval: INTz = (AWHC * RZ * MAD) / (ETo * Kl)
INTz = Zone Interval (days)
AWHC = Soil Plant Available Water Holding Capacity (in/foot)
RZ = Root zone depth (feet)
MAD = Management allowable depletion (%)
ETo = reference evapotranspiration (in/day)
Kl = landscape/crop coefficient (%) (see WUCOLS)
Runtime: RTz = [(60 * INTz * ETz) / ARze] * RTM
RTz = Irrigation zone runtime (mins)
INTz = Interval between irrigation events (days)
ETz = Zone adjusted ET (in/day) --> ETz = (ETo * Kl)
ARze = Zone effective application rate (in/hr) --> from catch can audit (most accurate)
RTM = Runtime multiplier (a factor of DU) --> RTM = 100/DULH

Note: Other considerations need to be made here, but this will get you started in the right direction.
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  #46  
Old 01-27-2013, 03:39 PM
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Above Par Lawns Above Par Lawns is offline
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Yeah I'm sure that information will do the OP a lot of good.
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  #47  
Old 01-27-2013, 04:19 PM
turfmd101 turfmd101 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
All this talk about irrigation scheduling, but nary a mention of proper methodology. Your basic water requirements on a per hydrozone (or valve zone) basis assuming no rain inputs, soil moisture content is at field capacity to start with and soil is homogeneous throughout root zone (both current and potential). A proper audit needs to be conducted.

Interval: INTz = (AWHC * RZ * MAD) / (ETo * Kl)
INTz = Zone Interval (days)
AWHC = Soil Plant Available Water Holding Capacity (in/foot)
RZ = Root zone depth (feet)
MAD = Management allowable depletion (%)
ETo = reference evapotranspiration (in/day)
Kl = landscape/crop coefficient (%) (see WUCOLS)
Runtime: RTz = [(60 * INTz * ETz) / ARze] * RTM
RTz = Irrigation zone runtime (mins)
INTz = Interval between irrigation events (days)
ETz = Zone adjusted ET (in/day) --> ETz = (ETo * Kl)
ARze = Zone effective application rate (in/hr) --> from catch can audit (most accurate)
RTM = Runtime multiplier (a factor of DU) --> RTM = 100/DULH

Note: Other considerations need to be made here, but this will get you started in the right direction.
Got it.
1. When showing suffecient drought.

2. Manage proper irrigation.

Good job explaining. Kiril
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  #48  
Old 01-27-2013, 06:19 PM
mss222 mss222 is offline
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Yeah that formula means nothing to me....it seems that you all think a pesticide company is the way to go...but that all of the brown/orange areas will not be fixed without resodding those areas, which is what I was hoping to avoid. What a shame, always something as a homeowner I guess.

Is $60 a month every other month reasonable, and why did one company suggest that and the other suggested every month. Is every month really necessary?
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  #49  
Old 01-27-2013, 06:48 PM
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Patriot Services Patriot Services is offline
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Every month spoon feeding is an easy way of encouraging rapid growth. It also puts him on the property more often to stay on top of any issues. A lot of it is personal judgement on the applicators part. 60 an app is not unreasonable for a quality job. A 20 dollar TG special will get you nothing but more problems. Remember he is feeding, controlling weeds, insects, disease and showing you proper irrigation practices. Your not just paying to have products put down, but the knowledge that goes with that. Stop thinking this will fix itself, ain't gonna happen.
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  #50  
Old 01-27-2013, 10:18 PM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mss222 View Post
Yeah that formula means nothing to me
If you want to properly manage your irrigation, that is where you start, not with over general "rules of thumb", which are most times inaccurate at best. Sorry if it is complex, but that is how professional irrigation managers do it. If you want to keep guessing or use some of the other suggestions made here, then your lawn will likely continue to suffer.
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